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Printing issues ...
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I upgraded my MakerFarm Prusa i3 to an E3D hotend a few months ago. It was printing fine for a while.
Recently, my daughter had an "argument" with the printer, tripped on a wire and sent the printer to the ground.
I lost the LCD display and had to replace the heated bed glass. Other than that, everything seemed fine.
When I reconnected everything, I noticed the fan on the E3D hotend was blowing
by
barakori
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Reprappers
Please ignore this message, had some connection issues and posted twice.
by
barakori
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Printing
I'm printing a model with a relatively thin shell (think of a hollow box with 1mm shell width, but it's not really a box) on a 3D printer we have at work.
I'm printing in ABS at 250C / 110C (manufacturer recommended settings). The ABS warps a lot. Much more than on my personal Prusa i3.
For anything that's 10cm or more, the edges just bend too much, no matter how much hairspray I put.
So I went
by
barakori
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Printing
I'm printing a model with a relatively thin shell (think of a hollow box with 1mm shell width, but it's not really a box) on a 3D printer we have at work.
I'm printing in ABS at 250C / 110C (manufacturer recommended settings). The ABS warps a lot. Much more than on my personal Prusa i3.
For anything that's 10cm or more, the edges just bend too much, no matter how much hairspray I put.
So I went
by
barakori
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Printing
Sorry, I accidentally post this here. It better fits "Reprappers". Please add information in the similarly titled post there.
Thanks.
by
barakori
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Printing
I have a very common problem - my ABS prints are curling, mostly at the bottom. The bed is perfectly level and runs at ~100C.
I decided to try building some form of closed chamber for my printer. The real question is - will this damage the stepper motors?
With the current Prusa i3, it's going to be difficult to have the motors outside the chamber.
Also, what about the electronics?
I can probab
by
barakori
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Reprappers
I have a very common problem - my ABS prints are curling, mostly at the bottom. The bed is perfectly level and runs at ~100C.
I decided to try building some form of closed chamber for my printer. The real question is - will this damage the stepper motors?
With the current Prusa i3, it's going to be difficult to have the motors outside the chamber.
Also, what about the electronics?
I can probab
by
barakori
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Printing
I'm actually printing quite slow: 25mm/sec for the top (solid) area and 18mm/sec for the outer loops.
Also, I tried increasing the top layers to 6, and actually got worse results:
Notice the top area should be completely solid and two holes in it, one really big. Holes are also present at the top of the left piece (it's an Ender Dragon's mouth part) - The top should be solid, but has a series
by
barakori
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Printing
Thanks for the info. I'll try it, although I've seen that 3 layers is pretty much recommended all around.
Also, I'm printing at10% infill, and then at the last 3 infill layers use a much denser infill, and then the top 3 layers are solid.
This looks something like this:
So layer top - 6 (the last 10% infill layer) is indeed not very condensed.
Then layer top - 5 has diagonal TR-BL lines at arou
by
barakori
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Printing
Best seen in a picture:
The original model has a solid top: Bill Cipher Pendant.
I'm printing at 0.2mm height and the top 3 layers are solid in the gcode (too big to be attached here).
What could cause these holes? Is this temperature related? I'm printing at 225C with ABS.
Thanks.
by
barakori
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Printing
Thanks for the tips. All seem right on the spot.
I tightened the screws on the RAMPS side (the connections to the heatbed itself came pre-connected).
Indeed, I updated the firmware recently, but I checked, and couldn't see anything that limits the temp to 100C.
The popping sound just solved itself - don't know how.
The heating problem exists. It doesn't even reach 100C. I can only heat up to ~9
by
barakori
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Reprappers
I've been printing exclusively with PLA over the last 3 months, and decided to try switching back to ABS.
I sliced something for 225C/105C and preheated the headbed. Heating was much slower than I remember from a few months back,
Actually, although the temp was set to 105C, it stopped at 97C. After 10 minutes of not increasing by a single degree, I decided to try and print anyway. I re-sliced wi
by
barakori
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Reprappers
I don't have such a head myself, but from what I know:
First, you don't need PTFE. This is used in plastic hot ends as far as I remember. Not metal heads.
Second, the fan should cool the upper part of the hotend, so that it's not hot (it's not good for the filament to get hot too early). Only the bottom of the hotend should reach a high temperature, which is where the thermistor is placed (so y
by
barakori
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Reprappers
For completeness - I couldn't backup the firmware, but there's a reset button on the side of the RAMPS.
by
barakori
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Sanguino(lolu)
Reviving this very old subject...
I'm trying to backup the firmware currently on my MakerFarm Prusa i3. I'm using the following command:
avrdude.exe -C ..\etc\avrdude.conf -p m1280 -c avrisp -i 10 -P com6 -U flash:rriginal-firmware.hex:i
Note: There's a colon followed by o in the command above, don't know how stop it from turning into a smiley...
I'm getting the following error:
avrdude.e
by
barakori
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Sanguino(lolu)
Thanks for the info. The link to https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin states that Marlin has moved to https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin.
In the new location the branch dropdown only contains 'Development' and 'master'. Which is the recommended branch to download?
Also, is there an official version number (e.g. 1.0.13b) that increases as new releases are cut (e.g. from the dev to the master
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barakori
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Reprappers
Thanks @dkarma.
Sending M115 returns the following information:
FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL: PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:MakerFarm EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
I'm trying to understand what's the up-to-date version of Marlin now. The page at http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin says the current version is v1.0.0, which links to a Tagged version on GitHub: https://git
by
barakori
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Reprappers
I have a RepRap Prusa i3 that I built from a kit, so I never had to do any firmware related stuff.
I'm sure the Marlin firmware that's in my printer is not current, and I want too check if it makes sense to update it.
But before that, is there a way to check which version is installed on my machine, and what's out there now?
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barakori
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Reprappers
I'm really not an expert, but I understood switching between PLA and ABS is not trivial - you have to make sure there are no leftovers from the previous material.
I started with ABS, and when I switched to PLA, it took forever to get all the ABS out of the hotend/nozzle. Initially I pushed a lot of PLA at ABS melting temperature, and for a while the printer printed well (at 190C), until I got po
by
barakori
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Printing
I tried KISSlicer a few days ago and I'm in love ;-)
There's just something in the support (sparse further away, dense closer to the model) that makes printing overhangs (and generally) much more accurate.
I have a couple of questions about tweaking the settings. Not sure it's possible, but I'll give it a try:
First - The dense support is printed in the 20 layers below the model. This seems a
by
barakori
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Printing
I will try lightly sanding the tip and post the results.
I had good prints with this nozzle and other parameters. They were never "great", but comparable to what I see around.
Thanks.
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barakori
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Printing
I took apart the J-head hotend, Just to be sure, I cleaned with a steel guitar string (plastic passes through anyway, I though maybe something partially blocking the way - couldn't find anything).
I then held the hotend on its side, heated it up to 185 degrees and manually pushed some PLA into it. The plastic coming out of the nozzle didn't come out straight, and actually went up and right, defy
by
barakori
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Printing
On the 2nd layer, the lines are 2.5mm apart, which is set in Slic3r's Print Settings > Support Material > Options for support material and raft > Pattern spacing.
This is the default setting, I assume it's rather large so that it would be easier to remove the raft. I can try a smaller spacing.
by
barakori
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Printing
Thanks @ggherbaz,
I was extruding at 1.03 multiplier (as you said).
You also said: "Nozzle: 0.4 Extrusion Width 0.48, Nozzle 0.3 Width 0.36 Nozzle 0.5 Width 0.6...", which I shortened to width = 120% or nozzle size, I put 0.42 in my settings (because I have a 0.35mm head).
by
barakori
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Printing
Is there a way to ask Slic3r not to have any additional gap between the support and the model?
I'd take the extra time and tools needed to separate them.
In my (very limited) experience, the extra gap between the support and the 1st object layers makes that layer lower, and now not tightly bound to the layer above it.
I'm currently using the following "options for support material and raft":
P
by
barakori
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Slic3r
Regarding attaching pictures - make sure you resize them down so that they're not over the limit (which is around 600K IIUC).
It would be really helpful to see your problem.
Sometime the first layer is a bit bigger because the slicing software is configured to extrude more plastic initially to get better adhesion to the bed. As an experiment, you can try printing with a raft, and see if the prob
by
barakori
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Printing
Take a look at this image, taken after the first model layer was printed (above 2 raft layers):
The bottom raft layer is fine - the diagonal lines that make the base stick to the hotbed.
The 2nd layer (top raft layer) also seems fine, that't the more sparse lines that go sideways.
With the 3rd layer (first layer of the model) things got really messy. I stopped the print during this print and t
by
barakori
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Printing
I started with 0.35 width prints, when this didn't work out @ggherbaz proposed printing at 120% of the nozzle width, which didn't work our as well.
We've come full circle :-(
I'm seeing a strange phenomena that makes more sense to describe in a different thread.
Let's leave this one unsolved...
by
barakori
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Printing
Tried with slic3r with the following settings:
Extrusion multiplier: 1.03, temp: 190C (+5 from pervious).
Extrusion width: 0.42 (I have a 0.35 nozzle) and 0.15 layer height.
Speed: 30 for perimeters and small perimeters, 80% of that for external perimeters.
Other speeds are 40-50 (where the recommended/defaults are 50-60).
Retraction 7mm (I misread the reply).
The results don't look much better:
by
barakori
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Printing
Sadly, this one's already unchecked.
Is there a way to run slic3r in "verbose" mode to see where it's stuck?
by
barakori
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Slic3r
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