Show all posts by user

Re: How critical is the accuarcy of the different arm lengths ? - 10 years ago

Quotehercek Marlin firmware can be easily updated to support different rod length for each tower (Repetier even supports this out of the box). But rods connecting to the same tower must be the same. That's how I did it, paired the same lenth rods together and adjusted one tower setting for that extra mm (DELTA_DIAGONAL_CORRECTION_C 1, default setting is 0). QuoteWildcard do not use solvent as

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Where to mount the extruder on Rostock Mini - 10 years ago

QuoteReplace Thanks, this helps. however, the drawer won't make it in my little workbench space :-) Maybe you could use a Rostock-Mini highboy kit to mount RAMPS board under the base of the printer. QuoteReplace Ths extruder clamp is a good solution. Please let me know which other clamp you use for the kapton covered build plate ? I used a Parametric Platform Clip with these settings: // Para

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Delta design considerations/theory - 10 years ago

here are some Delta robot kinematics articles: http://forums.trossenrobotics.com/tutorials/introduction-129/delta-robot-kinematics-3276/ http://cats-fs.rpi.edu/~wenj/ECSE641S07/delta_calibration.pdf http://www.eej.ulst.ac.uk/~ian/modules/EEE516/Appendix-%20Riona%20Corrigan%20B0439354-%20Rostock%20Mini%203D%20Printer/Digital%20Appendix/Written%20Report/

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Where to mount the extruder on Rostock Mini - 10 years ago

I was having the same problem , hated having electronics and the walking extruder on the table beside the printer. I used the Ikea LENNART drawer unit to store all of that in one place and mounted extruder on top of the acrylic build plate. This is the optimal place for the bowden extruder according to this. Had to lengthen the wires for the extruder, still have to do it properly one day and pri

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: End Stop Woes... Homing issues. - 10 years ago

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/k10ernLi7LU QuoteIf you're wiring your endstops into the X3's min connectors, the nice locking ones, you'll need to change the pin assignments in pins.h. I forget what the min pin assignments are but if you search in the groups there's a message which says which the right ones are. You'd probably be better off wiring into the header pins behind

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: End stop polarity ? - 10 years ago

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/makergear/4OTkvvvfqws QuotePolarity of the switch doesn't matter. However, the RAMPS has three pins for each end-stop (to support optical end-stops). So you have power, ground, and signal for each end-stop. Wire them wrong so the mechanical switch shorts power to ground, and Bad Things happen.

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: PLA curling up on angled objects. - 10 years ago

Quotettttrigg3r Thanks yall. Took your advice and went back to no heat+blue tape+hairspray. Works like a charm, Not perfect but pretty well. DinoK nice Delta printer, is it pretty straight forward to build one of those? I want to build one. I really like the Prusa i3 because it's very popular and well documented. What model do you recommend when it comes to Delta printer. This is my first pr

by DinoK - Printing

Re: PLA curling up on angled objects. - 10 years ago

Sorry, that picture is very misleading. That object is composed of three parts and the end result is taller then my Z-height. Look closer and you will notice that the head is at maximum height and is still lower than the object.That is better picture:

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Rostock Mini Pro - RAMPS power? - 10 years ago

I only ever used Repetier firmware , for others follow this topic: Which Firmware (and Version) Do You Use For Your Delta and Why? You can add LCD with a card slot, then you only need a slicer on your computer and use SD card to transfer gcode files to printer. I decided against that because Octoprint plus small computer like Raspberry Pi or EEE-PC gives you much more control: QuoteOctoprint

by DinoK - Reprappers

Re: Rostock Mini Pro - RAMPS power? - 10 years ago

Sorry, I mistyped, I use Crunchbang which is based on Debian. On another laptop which was managing printer till now I use Linux Mint which is based on Ubuntu which is based on Debian. So everything I use you can use also: Cura for slicing(can be also used to control printer) Octoprint for controlling printer

by DinoK - Reprappers

Re: Rostock Mini Pro - RAMPS power? - 10 years ago

I was using Repetier Host until recently and didn't bother me it's closed source, what bothered me was unstable behaviour of Mono that is required to run it. Now I am setting up an old Asus EEE PC 701 with Archbang,Cura and Octoprint.

by DinoK - Reprappers

Re: PLA curling up on angled objects. - 10 years ago

Quotevictorjung you could also try to swich your heated bed off. even after the first layers if you need it to stick at the begining. I second that, i somehow missed that you are using HPB 80C. You don't need heated bed for PLA.

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Rostock mini pro, problem with movements - 10 years ago

I ditched the rubber legs and also use clips to hold the bed. Had the same problem at the beginning-the plate was tilting when printing larger objects. It is very stable now except the head hitting clips sometimes when printing very large objects. I will buy a bigger piece of acryl and attach it with the same screws that hold the motors to solve that, but for now I just have to position the obje

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: PLA curling up on angled objects. - 10 years ago

I don't use small fans mounted around the nozzle anymore since I realized that they are like a fart in a huricane compared to a 80mm fan I am using now. I used to have multiple 40mm fans mounted on the effector and was experimenting with additional 80mm fan to solve warping. It actually solved many other problems also and I realized that the small fans from China are useless for my needs. I also

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Rostock Mini Pro - RAMPS power? - 10 years ago

Quotemk3a DinoK, One question regarding this statment: "Bought cheap ATX power supply and connected 12V line to RAMPS, which takes care of Arduino's power needs without having to solder any wires." I was under the impression that providing the power to RAMPS would not power the Arduino. How does this power the Arduino if you don't solder the wires? I thought the same when I bought the printer,

by DinoK - Reprappers

Re: Rostock Mini Pro - RAMPS power? - 10 years ago

The barrel connector, on the Arduino MEGA, will NOT power RAMPS and will not provide power to the stepper motors, heated bed, etc So the workaround is to connect the barrel connector 12V line to RAMPS 12V line with a short wire. I did this at the beginning and when the power brick died I removed that wire and connected the power properly as should be at the beginning. Bought cheap ATX power s

by DinoK - Reprappers

Re: Which Firmware (and Version) Do You Use For Your Delta and Why? - 10 years ago

...Which Firmware are you using? Upgraded Repetier Version 0.83 to 0.91.7 ... Why are you using this particular version: My printer came with an older version and upgrade was easy. Printing is great. My carbon rods are not all the same length as they should be and so I adjusted one tower setting for that, this was not possible in older version of the firmware. ... What is working: Printing ...Wh

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Perfect Build Surface For PLA? - 10 years ago

QuoteAndyCart Each to his his own then. I'll stick with this until something better comes along. I've never had a head crash and I have a roll of 200mm wide kapton with about another 25M on it. The biggest benefit i have found with this method is that I seem to be able to print again and again on the same tape. I have a small 170mm circle plexi bed that came with the printer and recently tried t

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Poor quality on small objects - 10 years ago

We just discused printing small objects in topic Printing small objects with a bowden extruder and got amazing results.

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Rostock mini pro, problem with movements - 10 years ago

QuoteNostromo Hello new here and with a rostock mini pro from czar. im having the same problem,all my endstops show h when pressed but my z axis is backwards,i also get a long beep sound when trying to home. any ideas or can some one upload thier firmware? i would be mucho happy if someone could. ( It took me some time but I finally managed to upload my firmware to my blog. You can get it there

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Printing small objects with a bowden extruder - 10 years ago

Listen to Sublime, reduce the temperature, use his FFF Settings Calculator and improve cooling. I did this today and was able to print the same kitten and squirrel as he did when he won that competition. My print is slightly biger but am very proud of it: I wrote more details about it in the update of the post I mentioned at the beginning Just found another topic about proper cooling: QuoteI

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Printing small objects with a bowden extruder - 10 years ago

I just solved my 'curly hair' problem. As my friend ,the computer programmer, likes to say : It's a feature, not a bug Was looking at gcode and discovered that the path is wrong (like one way street sticking out) at the exact spots where my curls appear: JerseyGirl would you mind sharing your gcode ?

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Printing small objects with a bowden extruder - 11 years ago

QuoteSublime I would say your prints are almost perfect except for heat. I also like JerseyGirl's print over my own. I tried 3 prints and still haven't perfected the settings. QuoteSublime Also an overhang has nothing to do with bridging, they are seen as completely different things by the slicing software. Didn't know that, always treated them the same, thank you for that revelation. Must als

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Printing small objects with a bowden extruder - 11 years ago

I just looked had a quick look at the model in gcode editor and it seems to me that you have simple bridging problem. The ugly areas on your pictures (above the eyes) are small overhangs that should be curable with the right settings, depending on your printer model. Sorry I can't give you more exact answer, I am just printing it on my RostockMini with bowden extruder and will have more answers l

by DinoK - Printing

Re: Rostock mini pro, problem with movements - 11 years ago

I had to disassemble the hotend also at the begining since they are cheap clones of J-head MK-IV and also poorly assembled. More about the clones : Quote... has 4 cooling vents, a push-to-fit connector that could be nice for a bowden extruder, an over-sized nozzle, and the vents are not milled to the rounded contour of the core. (This will negatively affect cooling.) .... http://airtripper.co

by DinoK - Delta Machines

Re: Rostock mini pro, problem with movements - 11 years ago

As AndyCart said, the default fan(D9) is connected just bellow HotEnd Power(D10), see attached image. I also have Rostock Mini Pro by 3dPrinterCzar and spent first month calibrating and tweaking so don't be afraid to ask if you have any more problems. I have acumulated a lot of tutorials and advice that is scatered on the web.

by DinoK - Delta Machines