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Printing issues ...
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2mm walls and 30% infill in ABS is more than enough when i slice with Cura.
For the body, guide, and gears.
And the extruder has lasted many hundreds of hours printing.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
I saw this on thingiverse earlier.
And commented what a good idea it was.
Using an inexpensive fan motor to drive the more efficient impeller.
If the blades were removed from the original fan you could make it a bit more efficient.
Maybe cut them down to stubs that the impeller can still lock into or glue the impeller to the fan motor hub.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Look what I made!
Theres no problem using a metal hot end with pla.
I use the hexagon all metal and have no problem with pla.
Or ABS, ninjaflex, nylon.
I use 2.85mm and 3mm filament with a wades direct drive and between 0.3mm and 0.5mm nozzles.
Ive not had a single jam with any material.
The hot end heat sink has a permanently powered 12v fan that i dont turn off till the hot end has cooled.
Gordon
by
gordonendersby
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Printing
2 hotends to have 2 sizes of nozzle sounds a bit over the top.
Id save the ability to print a second disolveable support material.
I use a hexagon hot end and just swap the nozzles when i want to use the 0.5mm or 0.3mm.
You have to do it with the nozzle hot. But once youve got the nack with the spanner and can get the new nozzle in place before it get too hot to handle.
Then its just a matter of
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gordonendersby
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General
Talking of the fan reminded me i had the same problem but i sourced a 7mm thick fan from farnell that gave just enough clearance.
Most 20mm fans come as 10mm thick.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Ive mounted the hexagon all metal hot end which is very similar in needing space for the fan.
I just imported an existing carriage into freecad and cut the hole bigger to accomodate the hot end and fan.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
I use a metal feeler gauge no vauge guessing or ripped bits of paper.
A couple of quid on ebay or from you local car parts/tool shop.
Once you get the feel of the resistance between the bed and nozzle you can repeat it accurately.
And always do it at the full ptinting temp for the bed and nozzle.
With abs, pla, nylon and nijaflex.
For my 0.5mm nozzle i use the 0.1mm blade.
For my 0.3mm nozzle i
by
gordonendersby
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General
I use supaclips, but you do need an aplicator to fit them.
But they are very low profile and when on dont move.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
You might want to mention where in the world you are.
As postage could be expensive.
Gordon
by
gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Have a look at taulman bridge nylon.
It would be ideal for your application.
Its very strong but has a bit of give to it and prints at a nozzle temp of 240DegC. Not much hotter than abs.
It prints very similar to abs. But you do need to dry it out in the oven before use.
I did something a bit similar for my daughters moth trap.
I found it very dificult to get the shape right to snap round the l
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gordonendersby
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Printing
You may have changed something in your slicer for abs and not switched back to all the same settings for pla.
I use cura and save my configuration for each nozzle size, i regularly swap between 0.5mm and 0.3mm nozzles, each material type, abs, pla, nylon, ninja flex.
Even down to colour if i find much difference in the way the filament behaves.
that way i can quickly load a basic configuration f
by
gordonendersby
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Reprappers
I also managed to wear grooves into my x-axis smooth rods with cheap lm8uu bearings.
Even using lythium grease from first fitting.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
My thinnest layer height that i can see a physical difference in quality with the 8mm x1.25mm threaded rod is 0.06mm.
So the 160 microsteps at 1/16 sounds fine.
Ive just switched over to drv8825 1/32 drivers so it will double that anyway.
Thanks ill go for the 8mm x 2mm pitch lead screw.
The extra stiffness and accuracy over the length sounds attractive as well as ive been stiffening everything
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Ive been looking at lead screws recently.
Is the fine 1.5mm pitch desireable over the 2mm pitch screws?
After using 8mm x 1.25mm stainless threaded rod which has turned out to be pretty good with very regular cut threads.
Im wondering how good in comparison 8mm x2mm pitch lead screw would be.
1.5mm doesnt seem as easy to get hold of but loads of 8mm x 2mm pitch.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
You would be amazed what you can do with some super glue and cable ties.
I did something similar with my x-ends on my prusa i2.
I was able to get it fixed enough that i could print a new one.
Give it a try.
Gordon
by
gordonendersby
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Prusa i3 and variants
Being a much bigger nozzle maybe your extruder cant quite keep up all the time pumping through the filament?
So its retracted but then needs to very quickly extrude again to fill the melt chamber ready to print but not getting quite enough in time?
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
Im getting good results with cura with my small fine prints.
It seems to be a bit easier to use than some other slicers from what ive read on here.
To be honest ive been a bit lazy after trying cura as my first slicer i havnt botheted to try much else as so far its sliced everything ive thrown at it.
But i feel i should try others at some point.
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gordonendersby
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Prusa i3 and variants
Where abouts in the world are you?
If your in the uk, see my 3dhub in my signature. I can post.
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gordonendersby
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General
Its a long and iterative process.
Look at other peoples printers see how theyve done it.
Read through old posts on this forum and see how other people have improved there prints.
Ive learnt a lot from other peoples problem prints just by reading through old posts.
Look at each area of the printer seperately and do some research.
Electronics, x-axis, y-axis, z-axis, frame, extruder and so on.
Ma
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gordonendersby
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Prusa i3 and variants
And its all in the manual.
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gordonendersby
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General
I built my first printer an i2 for just less than £250 Last year.
Its as sturdy if not more stable than a cheap perspex framed i3.
The only limitation is the height.
After some tweaking its printing very accurately.
Id recomend it as a first printer if finding the threaded rod is easier than the cut i3 parts.
I found getting the i3 parts cut was more expensive than the steel threaded rod for me
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
You should just need to update the underlying os.
Follow the instructions on the raspberry pi site to update the os for the newer board.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Experimental
Hottest side up.
Its the side you can see the heat traces running just below the surface.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Im not sure how old you are but please have a word with someone who understands mains power in your region or you will hurt either yourself or someone around you.
That power supply needs 3 wires to your wall outlet.
Live, neutral and earth. 2 wires are not safe without that earth connection.
In the Uk we have 3 pin wall plugs. with clearly marked Neutral, live and earth connections. L,N,E
Gordo
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gordonendersby
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General
Ive just had a quick scan through the config.h
The "reprap discount smart controller" from what i can see of the definitions should be a 5 line display.
But your pictures seem to be of a 4 line display.
Are you sure youve picked the right display?
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Are you sure you havnt selected a 2 line display rather than a 4 line display?
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Theyre not a common cable.
Theres some info here from my search for the motor connectors.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
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