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Printing issues ...
If that driver doesnt work in the other known working driver slots then its broken.
It could be you had a faulty driver board or you could have accidentally unplugged the motor or shorted some pins.
They are fairly fragile and unforgiving.
You will need a replacement.
I keep a couple of spares just in case.
This is one part of the electronics that you need to spend a little more money on as the
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
You might want to read that thread as you may have ordered the 2.5mm rather than 2mm pitch connectors.
I ened up with the JST-PH6 rather than the 2.5mm pitch JST-XH youve ordered.
I went through 2 other sets of connectors before csambrook put me right after doing some research for me.
That im very grateful for.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Ive been looking atmaking anew loom.
I needed to find the plugs for the motors.
Maybe my topic in the motor section will help a little.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
You dont need to go through 3d hubs If you dont want to.
Im offering to print them for you If you dont mind collecting them
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
If you dont mind collecting them i can print them for you as offered.
What was wrong with the print?
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Ive seen the linear rails.
What have you got underneath tHem or are they able to span the length of the printer unsupported?
For some reason ive got the idea they need to be on some kind of bed or bar over there length for support.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Still flat packed at the moment. Ive got to fix the small defects that got it reduced price. Just a little hand filing.
I only inted to weld the main structure. But i may weld other bits. Ill decide later as i go.
Id like tomake each axis cartridge like for maintenance.
For example being able to remove the whole x-axis as a single unit. So its bolted in place.
Each z-axis tower as individual bol
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Ah, found an extension to my file manager on android that can open the compression you used.
Not exactly rocket science to print those.
If its any help just yesterday i reprinted my x-carriage with some modifications and its strong as it can possibly be.
I can print them for you and i can garuntee if theyre not up to snuff you wont have to pay. Even though ive forgotten how to spell garuntee.
I
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gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Thats a shame.
If the quality was crap you shouldnt have had to pay for it.
Some of us have pride in what we print others just want to knock it out.
Theres a hub i know called smoothie nearer you that i know takes a lot of pride in what he prints.
And im down here in Croydon if you want to give it a try.
Sorry at the moment i cant even see your file as im away from my office and on an android
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gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
I personally wouldnt bother with them.
Tighten your belt properly and later print and fit a proper rigid tensioner.
The idea of using these belts is that they are strong, hard wearing and dont stretch.
Adding a spring makes them stretchier not tighter.
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Why weld the frame, because ive got a mig welder sitting in the garage.
Ive chosen the p3steel for its mass, helps with vibration and stiffness, its going to be the same shape every print.
Those little 3mm bolts holding it together are ok, but welding is better.
No mucking around checking its all done up tight and aligned properly regularly as you should do.
Ill bolt it together, check its alignm
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
I understood there were issues with calculations and rounding where the 1mm pitch helped.
Im running 1/32 microstepping on my prusa i2 as ive got drv8825's.
Im keeping it for small accurate prints as ive managed to get it very good at fine detail and tiny prints.
My finest layer height is 0.06mm with the 0.3mm nozzle.
The new machine is supposed to be more about giving me more height for printi
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Might be worth mentioning where abouts you are in the UK.
You might have a local makerspace or someone nearby who could help you out.
If you cant find someone to do you a favour. You could try 3dhubs.com for somebody nearby to do it commecially for you.
If your stuck and want it posted im on 3d hubs myself trying to earn enough to pay for my printer.
Gordon
South London.
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gordonendersby
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Job Shop: I need stuff made!
My head is telling me go proper lead screw but im thinking about the pitch.
The finest ive seen is 1.5mm and the standard 2mm.
Will the lead screw at 1.5mm reallybe that much better than the m5x1mm or m8x1.25mm.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
I thought the reason the i3 going for m5x1mm is the thread pitch and steps to pitch ratio.
Before that it was 8mmx1.25 threaded rod as per the i2 frame.
The zink coated threaded rods are formed with the thread undersized ready for the zinc coating.
The stainless are cut threads, smoother and more accurate.
M5 come as 1mm thread pitch.
M8 come as 1.25mm thread pitch.
The 8mm lead screw comes as
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Im speccing up my new machine and Ive got to decide what to do about the Z-axis leadscrews.
On my Prusa I2 ive been happily using stainless steel M8x1.25 threaded rod and im getting great results.
Its very good stainless rod, its got properly cut threads unlike cheaper zinc coated formed threads and the threads are nice and snug in the nuts and x-ends.
With springs in the x-ends im getting very
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Im not the greatest at documentation but little bits of info like this is usefull to share.
And the forum is searcheable so it should be findable by others.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Yep, they are the right ones.
I can swap the already crimped wires over to the empty housings to give me the 4 wires.
The tails are only a few inches long so ill have to solder longer wiring to them.
Thanks again.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I dont know if thats all his problem is.
Ive got a .3mm nozzle and i regularly print at 50mm/s but it is a direct drive on a wades geared extruder Pushing 3mm filament.
Maybe it can push more through than a bowden setup but i wouldnt think it would make that much difference.
Can you verify the heater temp with another sensor, maybe a thermistor supplied with a multi meter.
The one ive got has b
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gordonendersby
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Printing
I got the impression he was on the limits of his existing supply.
With the 2 12v rails on modern atx supplies your effectively getting 2 power supplies plus the other power rails..
The only fiddling is sticking a cheap chunky resistor on the 5v rajl and attach it to the case to disipate heat.
I bought some cheap extension cables for the atx plugs and extended them to the printer.
No hacking of
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
Thats excellent. Just nedds a nice 3d printed case now.
I can imagine half a dozen far east companies copying this as we read your post.
Whatch out it will be on ebay as a complete board soon.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Controllers
Or you could get a good quality atx pc power supply to run the lot.
The servo's will happily run of the 5v supply from there.
Apart from one duff power supply i salvaged from an old pc case ive had no problems running my machine with a hested bed.
So buy new.
Modern supplies have two 12v rails so you can use one for the bed and one for the nozzle and electronics.
Youve then got a stack of 12v and
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
Hexagon user.
High temps no problem as its all metal. Printed nylon this evening at 245c i believe it will go a lot higher.
The limit is set by the rating of the thermistor or higher still with a thermocouple.
Not had any clogs or jammed filament with nylon, abs or ninjaflex.
Havnt got round to pla for a while so havnt used it with this hot end.
I like that you can swap nozzles between 0.3 an
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gordonendersby
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General
Hard to remember them all as ive done little bits and pieces over several months.
I can print at 0.06mm layer heights and thin walls down to 0.4mm at up to 50mm/s.
Done some prints lately for people who couldnt get there very small designs printed by others on more mainstream machines.
Replaced the original plywood bed with a sheet of aluminium.
4 bearing mount again to make it more rigid. Bet
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Sorry cant see your video seems to be private.
Sorry if im misunderstanding how you are calculating your e-steps for the extruder.
You say what goes in doesnt match what comes out?
When setting your e steps you are only concerned with what goes in to the extruder.
You measure how much filament goes in the top and then compare that to what you expected to go in the top and then adjust the e-step
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gordonendersby
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Prusa i3 and variants
My finest smallest prints are at 0.06mm layer height with my 0.3mm nozzle.
And ive made a number of tweaks to my prusa i2 to get the accuracy ive got now.
But i cant see the point with anything but the smallest nozzle sizes.
And your printer needs to be well set up to make it work.
This is 9mm across with 0.4mm walls. Its the finest ive been able to print so far.
Its a housing for a sensor for a
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Feel like slapping myself round the head with a wet fish.
When i dismantled everything to solder on the new power plugs.
I switched round the leads for the bed and hot end.
So of course the bed cut out when the hot end got to temp and then the hot end continued to heat till i hit maxtemp.
Not paying enough attention.
Dont know how i missed that.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
2 z axis motors arnt as fiddly as it sounds to align.
You vary rarely have to touch it. Only when theres been a problem.
Ive had a few instances where the plug connection to the ramps board for the motors has been a bit loose and not made proper contact so one motors hasnt turned properly when the other has. Those are the only times ive had to realign the 2 ends to make them level.
You use calip
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gordonendersby
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General