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Printing issues ...
If that picture is your hot end.
Whatever you do get rid of all that tape around the body of the head.
The kapton tape should just be round the heater block.
You need airflow to keep the body cool and the j-heads also benefit from a fan aimed at the black body.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Im about to start working through this for the same reason. Although not as extreme as yours.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Ive got an aiball trek wifi camera on an arm on my prusa i2.
Not the greatest of images but does the job and is relatively cheap.
I just use one of the 5v supplies from my atx power supply to run it so its on when the printer is on.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
The big printer boys are getting involved.
I saw an anouncement for an HP home printer a couple of weeks ago.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Ive found a big difference in the gap between hot and cold so always do it hot with a metal feeler guage of 0.08mm.
Metal feeler guages are much easier to us than scraps of paper.
The art is to be consistent. Once youve got the feel of the feeler and it seems to be at the right height.
Do it the same way every time.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Just follow the instructions on the link to the wiki i gave you.
It will tell you what each wire is for including the switched line to turn on the psu.
The resistor doesnt go on any input.
It just goes between one of the 5v lines from the psu to earth.
Values in the wiki.
Both power inputs for bed, extruder, motors and controller are 12v directly from the psu.
As i said take one from each 12v s
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Have you put load/resistor on the 5v line as most instructions on using atx power supplies state?
Without this the power supply will be unstable.
You are using the 12v yellow supply arnt you?
The bed needs 12v to heat and so does the extruder.
Also has your psu got 2 rails for 12v.
Usually 12v on the mainboard connector is a seperate regulator to the 12v on the graphics card power connector(4
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Thanks.
Ill check those out.
Cubehero sounds interesting with github.
Im using cura from Ultimaker, ill give youmagine some more attention.
Ive found yeggi.com, another aggregator or search model search.
Its fun to click on the random link and look at all the models.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Yes i know.
But no reviews or recomendations by users.
Theres also a section in this very forum to advertise repositories.
Thingiverse is listed but how would i know from that listing about the history and contreversy surrounding the development of that business?
I found out about this after using the site. Not knowing about the switch from opensource to closed source and the alienation of a la
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gordonendersby
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General
I realise i could put this in the object repositories section but i wanted to ask a wider audience than just those pushing there own repositories.
I wanted the views of the users.
Ive only recently started 3d printing and already im finding things to design and make rather than download and print.
Thingiverse is a fantastic 3d repository, the interface is great. But the more i hear the more unco
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gordonendersby
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General
Ive found the sainsmart ramps, lcd display and mega boards are up to the job.
I got mine through ebay.
They do a heavy duty mega that can run on 24v. Im using at 12v and so far its been reliable.
Id certainly buy theres again.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
A spring doesnt tension a belt. It just makes it springy. So it goes from tight to not tight enough at various times.
So the tension will vary.
For an example. On a road or race motorcycle you dont see a spring tensioner on a drive chain.
The chain needs to be at the correct tension all the time.
Only on trials bikes that have slack chains by design do you have a tensioner to stop it flapping a
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
That confirms it.
Im using an extruder with out the screws going through to hold the hexagon.
Ive cut out some material from the slimline carriage and it fits now.
Im going to modify the carriage properly in freecad so it fits.
As ive cut some material out i need to beef it up a bit.
If it works ill put it on thingiverse.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Tried the slimline remix and cant get the hot end with fan mount and fan fixed in place.
Theres not enough clearance for the fan mount under the carriage.
I might be able to modify it a bit by making the hole larger.
What extruder are you using as i think its because im using one of the aluminium j-head adaptor plates with a wades extruder.
So the hot end, fan andmount are a little too high.
Il
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Thanks.
I found that one and one based on it later today.
But wasnt sure it would fit.
Thanks forvrecomending it.
Its a long print to just to try it out so your recomendation is a real help.
Ill print it and try it.
Id found that fan mount, printed it and found i couldnt get it in the carriage ive got so posted the question on here.
Thanks again.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
I was wondering about doing something like this.
But I thought it wasteful to swap out the whole extruder, motor and hot end.
So I'm going to try changing just the nozzle instead.
I've bought an all metal hot end and a couple of nozzles, one 0.3mm and one 0.5mm.
I realize I'll have to unscrew them while hot but I'm thinking I'll make a tool to unscrew it so I don't burn myself.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Reprappers
Hi all.
I've just got an all metal hexagon hot end for my prusa i2.
But it won't fit in my x carriage with the fan attached to the fins as the aperture is too small.
Can anyone recommend an x carriage that will take a hexagon hot end and fan attached?
Its all based on m8 rods with lm8uu bearings.
Also need 4mm holes to bolt down the extruder I'm using as well.
Thanks
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General Mendel Topics
Molex i think is the manufacturer. They make all sorts.
Yes, Its usualy known as the name of the power connectors in a pc.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
Molex locking pin headers.
If you want to plug something in to them you will want the female side.
You get a housing and crimp connectors to go inside.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
They are actually loose in there housing.
To make sure they are secure I have to push them on by the wire.
Which obviously doesnt help making them secure.
Ive looked at one on a pre crimped lead I've got and the housing is much stronger and the plastic tab stiffer.
So I think the ones I've got are cheap and nasty.
They were from a 3d print supplies ebay seller so I thought they would be up to t
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
I put the kapton tape on with soapy water.
Loads of demos on youtube.
Works very well, no bubbles or creases.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Cheapest ive found is on ebay.
Just bought 5 litres as it was a fraction of the cost by litre.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
And they dont loosen?
Those are the very same dupont connectors on those leads ivd used, but crimped myself.
I wonder if the housings i have are cheap copies maybe?
I think i might try a set from farnell or rs components.
More expensive but maybe its the quality of the dupont conndctors that is causing the problem.
If that doesnt work ill have a go with those.
thanks
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
Ive had good results with abs glue, abs juice or slurry amoung the names its known by but not for everything ive tried.
Kapton tape was the only thing i could get a newly printed extruder gear wheel to print on without warp.
Something about the density of the print i think.
Parts less dense, more voids or more complex shapes were fine on abs juice.
Ime using iust ghe tape nothing else like abs ju
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gordonendersby
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General
My mendel prusa is pretty mechanically reliable now after building it, tweaking it and replacing plastics that break for no apparent reason. The only problem i seem to have is with the connections to the ramps board.
This wasmt a kit i sourced parts from all over and built it myself.
Im continually having to fiddle with the conndctors to make sure they are seated properly.
Especially the end sto
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gordonendersby
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RAMPS Electronics
Sorry double post
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Thanks,
So its doable but fiddly.
Like the idea of using a socket. But mine arnt nut based.
They have 2 flats for a 7mm spanner.
Maybe I can make up a socket of some kind to fit.
Insulated maybe or that can attach to something insulated.
don't you find you need to hold the hot end as well?
doesn't it risk damaging the heater and sensor wires?
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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General
Hi guys,
Can you swap nozzles on hot ends while the hot end is still attached to the extruder and carriage?
Ive been looking at ways to easily change the nozzles size for printing.
It seems such a waste to swap the whole extruder, hot end and motor assembly as with the quick change x carriages.
Ive got a .3mm nozzle at the moment but want to switch to a larger one for larger prints.
I should im
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gordonendersby
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General
Theyve come back in stock at
So ive ordered some wraps and some ninja flex while i was there.
Should be fun to try.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Printing
I was told to look for the heater traces and have them at the top so they heated the bed directly on top of it.
Gordon
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gordonendersby
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Controllers