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Printing issues ...
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Quotevegasloki
There is a Google + group but the software is in the Play store. He also posts updates to the Octoprint Google + group.Can you link it? The only one I found is a GitHub client
by
quillford
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General
Quotevegasloki
Quotequillford
I currently use OctoPrint, but was wondering if there is something else that I can try. It works well on desktop, but on my iPad and phone it is somewhat unresponsive. I already know about Print to peer and Astroprint, but they are not out yet.
Mobile development for open Octoprint like apps is taking place on Android where the environment isn't as locked down and m
by
quillford
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General
Quotearroyo
You are absolutely right, we are going for simplicity to bring 3D Printing to the people that are less technical. However we would like to add some advanced features that would make it appealing for this community. I would love to hear what you think is missing.
Thanks in advance!The slicers you have built in, Cura and Slic3r, are already the best in my opinion. I recommend you stic
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quillford
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General
Quotearroyo
Hi there,
I just wanted to let you know that AstroPrint is now live at . You can create a free account and go to the Downloads page to get your RPi image.
We'd love to have you try it and let us know what you think.It has a much better mobile UI than OctoPrint, but I find OctoPrint much more developer friendly. I will be sticking with OctoPrint for the time being. AstroPrint seems
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quillford
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General
Quotenophead
Say the XBOX cable has three or four 12V wires then connect them all together to make a star point and then follow that by a Y junction made with thick wire where each branch goes to one of the RAMPS inputs.
That ensures that regardless of the what split of current is on the two RAMPS inputs, all four XBOX wires will share the total current equally and give the smallest voltage drop
by
quillford
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Reprappers
Quotenophead
Yes you can just about run a full machine with a 10A heated bed. I have run a Mendel90 from one.
Mine has three 12V wires, but however many it has I would common them before splitting for the two RAMPs inputs for best load balancing in the cable. I am terribly unfamilar with electrical terms. Could you please elaborate?
by
quillford
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Reprappers
Tired of ATX, I bought an Xbox psu. All the guides I have seen seem to be for powering the bed. I was wondering if and how I could use it to power my whole printer. Do I wire 2 12V wires to each 11a and 5a or do I wire 3 12V to 11a and 1 12V to 5a?
by
quillford
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Reprappers
Try a real browser such as Google Ultron.
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quillford
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General
I would go with the Ultimaker 2. Check out Barnacules Nerdgasm. He prints some amazing things with his Ultimakers.
by
quillford
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General
QuoteXhnnas
How did you attached the sensor to the ramps? Directly to the Z min input?Yes directly
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quillford
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Reprappers
Quoteggherbaz
Good to know. Now you need to built two more printers to use the other sensors ;-)I fully intend to.
by
quillford
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Printing
I figured it out. My RAMPS board was bad. I tried another one I had, and it worked.
by
quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Yes, that's an LM7805. In general any regulator to 5volts will work.Ok. If this doesn't work, what do you suggest? Do you use an inductive proximity sensor?
by
quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Using sensor 1 that is the correct type, connect brown to + blue to - and black to signal. Do M119 if shows triggered switch logic, do M119 and verify that is open, put a metal close to it and do M119 again should say triggered, if not, then you will have to used 12 volts and a voltage divider or LM7805 for signal to ramps.
Now this might be an stupid question: what kind of heated
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quillford
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Printing
These are my settings. I believe they are enabled.
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quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Using sensor 1 that is the correct type, connect brown to + blue to - and black to signal. Do M119 if shows triggered switch logic, do M119 and verify that is open, put a metal close to it and do M119 again should say triggered, if not, then you will have to used 12 volts and a voltage divider or LM7805 for signal to ramps.
Now this might be an stupid question: what kind of heated
by
quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Also, you have two types NPN and PNP, need the check which one is the correct for ramps I have tried both. Neither of them work.
by
quillford
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Printing
QuoteVDX
... several questions: - have you measured the output? - did it change with the LED or not? - which driving voltage (6-36V!) and how did you connect it to the 5V input? I have not measured the output. It did not change with the LED. I connected it to the endstop positive and ground pins.
by
quillford
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Printing
I bought another probe with the same exact model number as the Printrbot probe. It still does not work. I could have simply received three defectives probes, but it could be I need to do something to the probe to get them to work for RAMPS.
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quillford
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Printing
I have tried the following three inductive sensor on RAMPS 1.4, and none of them worked (1 2 3). I also tried the one on my Printrbot which worked. Two of the three sensors I tried are the same model number as the Printrbot probe. The problem I am having is that the probes will not change state even though the LED on the probe itself changes correctly. Is there something I need to do to the probe
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quillford
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Printing
Update: it is not my firmware. I just wired my printrbot probe in and it works. It is either my soldering or probe. Probably my soldering as the led triggers correctly.
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quillford
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Printing
Could you send me a preconfigured config or compiled firmware to test if it is my settings?
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quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
Probably this link will explain that part better than I can do.Do you use marlin with an inductive sensor?
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quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
If any of your switches are connected to min. You need to delete the // for minimum endstops like 3dkarma mentioned.All of them are connected to min. I do not use max. My regular endstops trigger correctly though with the settings above.
by
quillford
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Printing
Quoteggherbaz
The first part, the bold ones indicate that you set the endstops pull up for all endstops, that is right as long as you have mechanical switches or any switch that will allow voltage to ground (some switches already has them)and they are set so you don't create a short circuit. the second part, the one with yellow letters is the one that controls the logic (NC or NO).
If you want to
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quillford
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Printing
I seem to have two endstop pullup resistors statements. They look the same to me. Could you tell me which one to modify?
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quillford
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Printing
M119 always returns TRIGGERED (or OPEN if I flip the connector) for Z min. I am using my own customized version of marlin on RAMPS 1.4. I am also using an inductive sensor. Does anyone have any solutions or suggestions? Is it a firmware setting I need to modify?
by
quillford
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Printing
M119 always returns TRIGGERED (or OPEN if I flip the connector) for Z min. I am using my own customized version of marlin on RAMPS 1.4. I am also using an inductive sensor. Does anyone have any solutions or suggestions? Is it a firmware setting I need to modify?
by
quillford
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Reprappers
QuoteWaltermixx
What is your bed made out of? Or ramps board does not detect it at all? Perhaps you need to check your configuration.h file, see if you need to us comment anything. I have a Printrbot that uses a probe. I have been testing my new probe with an aluminum bed that my Printrbot probe detects. I have also tried it on my Printrboard. It did not work. Could I have broken it? I had trou
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quillford
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Reprappers
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