Hi. I soldered a new terminal blocks on to the pcb, and did a test on heated bed only but not others because of the wires too short and the coppers didnt fully inserted into the terminal. Going to have a new slightly longer wire later. However, last night i found out that theres some text saying "250v8a" while the other side is "22-14awg" and it got me worried. What if the terminal blocks thatby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Thank you for your help, I keep this in mind when choosing the right wire especially to go for flex core type I might be updating this thread for either some little update or not later Regards -Sarfby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Thank you for your reply, I probably going to have myself a terminal block just like the power output probably this weekend fitted on to the power input. As I understand right, this kind of terminal block has a high contact points especially paired with flexible multi strand wire right? A solid core weren't good to be used for these as well? Correct me if I'm wrong That is quite a hectic procesby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Let's say I'm running my bed at 110'c with 270'c extruder, how much amp would that be pulled? I am using geeetech prusa i3 and the pid thingy should be default values, nothings changedby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteitchytweed Changing the connector to a 30 amp unit will make it more rugged but now the limit becomes what the board construction / traces can handle. Too much current there and the traces will fuse open. This can help as using the fork style connector with a screw terminal will help with the current carrying. Wouldn't that be the same if I solder a higher capacity cables onto it?by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
What i meant was, will it be a good idea to change the stock connector to a higher capacity lets say stock is 15a, but i wanted to change to 30a, in a form of connector from power supply, black one with cover. With that both ends of the wire would be crimped to a wishbone type terminal end Will this helps in preventing the terminal getting burnt like what i encountered?by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Quoteitchytweed My apologies for not including mm3 for the wire. I deal with conversions between both professionally and just plain forgot. Here is a page that has a simple AWG/mm3/amps capacity chart - . The rule of thumb is that any connection is a point of failure and thermal cycling aggravates that process because of expansion/contraction. I have replaced many a crimp connection and burnt wiby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
I'm sorry for being late on posting the picture of the cable used, here it is I guess I am quite lucky the heated bed suddenly turned off upon reaching 70'c. I just got some cables rated at 13a and 18a, unsure about the awg rating because we don't use awg here (Malaysia).by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
I am unable to upload pictures of the cable used, i will upload after i bought another cable. I just checked some stores for extension sockets for reference, i found the thickest is 1.25mm2. I am confused by this number and the awg chart references on which i should refer, mm2 or the mm? The hole in the pcb i think should be around 1mm was it? If i were to use a 1mm copper wire, that would be 17by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotecsambrook Quotesarf2k4 Quotecsambrook Quotesarf2k4 Hi, I wanted to ask you guys about this problem, I got my terminal connection burnt last night after about 4 stressful print in total of about 15 hours I think. Last night when I tried to heat the bed, it suddenly turned off when it reaches 70'c. I believe I am using a 10awg wire; quite sturdy wire with a diameter of around 2.5mm (copper).by sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotecsambrook Quotesarf2k4 Hi, I wanted to ask you guys about this problem, I got my terminal connection burnt last night after about 4 stressful print in total of about 15 hours I think. Last night when I tried to heat the bed, it suddenly turned off when it reaches 70'c. I believe I am using a 10awg wire; quite sturdy wire with a diameter of around 2.5mm (copper). The board has little solderby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I wanted to ask you guys about this problem, I got my terminal connection burnt last night after about 4 stressful print in total of about 15 hours I think. Last night when I tried to heat the bed, it suddenly turned off when it reaches 70'c. I believe I am using a 10awg wire; quite sturdy wire with a diameter of around 2.5mm (copper). The board has little solder plate left (place to connectby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Hi, I have geeetech i3 as well, i think mine is the I3B series, the one with mk8 extruder. i had problems with my build, destroyed my first nozzle (assembled the wrong way), the board shipped were sanguinololu 1.3 turned out to be a blank board without bootloader ( can't even burn the bootloader). Ordered from an agent and luckily the agent/reseller agreed to give me replacement for both electronby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Here is the stepstick that got fried when I first turn on the printer after 1 minute I think I will declare that the main board isn't good. Do you know any good source for either sanguinololu 1.3a or ramps 1.4 complete set for cheap but with quality assurance? Somehow I preferred to have ramps 1.4 sets over sanguinololu boardby sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Oh, I thought lack of bootloader can fry my stepstick. But, in this case, one of my stepstick has fried, the X-axis stepstick, is it possible that the whole board itself is faulty? Here is the back of the board One thing, can any arduino hooked into the board's isp port?by sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Can lack of bootloader fry my stepstick?by sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
The jumper is attached the whole time, I never took it out. Is there a way to fix the bootloader or is it considered dead? I'm still new to this, please bear with me =(by sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Should I take out the auto reset jumper when I wanna use the board or just leave it there? It gave me this message when following the geeetech tutorial, the one on uploading the firmwares In file included from /Marlin.h:23, from BlinkM.cpp:5: /pins.h:1273:3: error: #error Oops! Make sure you have 'Arduino Mega' selected from the 'Tools -> Boards' menu. Should I use the normaby sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
I removed everything includng the stepper drivers, when connected, it shows as ft232r usb uart, I installed the driver then it stated as usb converter. after some time it has its own serial port, com7, but when I tried to connect that com7 using pronterface, it shows 'connecting....' only, no other messages came even for 5 minutes. I'm going to try restarting my pc a while and see how it goes witby sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi, I just got my first 3d printer with sanguinolulu by geeetech, wired everything according to the official sanguinolulu and geeetech wiki, when i turned it on, it just emits red light, no display on the lcd. My first time turning it on, for about 1 minute it produced smoke (should be around the big capacity near to the big long black controller). I also tried disconnecting the z motor becauseby sarf2k4 - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi, I'm confused with several Prusa variants; i3, i3 rework, mini i3, i3 haephestos, single frame, box frame and some other. I need a better comparison between the famous prusa variants out there and if any admin sees this, probably it is better to update the wiki page or add model variant comparison page (just my suggestion =D). Is there any real differences between those famous variants and thby sarf2k4 - General Mendel Topics
Quotegforce1 It is much easier to mount parts on the aluminum extrusion because they have a groove on the sides. I think they are stronger as well. Where you from? Take a look at this for sources I am from the Borneo state of Malaysia, I noticed the other day on mendelmax series build that you don't have to drill anything on the extrusion but just the tapped rectangle plate. I think I only askby sarf2k4 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hi, I've been wondering about the square metal tubes if it is suitable to be used as an alternative to mendelmax frame instead of aluminum profile type? I couldn't find any hardware store selling aluminum profile type.by sarf2k4 - Extruded Aluminum Frames
QuoteRalph.Hilton Printing on plain glass works fine for me using PLA, PETG and TPU. For ABS I use kapton tape. Is there any impact on the printed objects if I didn't use the kapton tape? I also heard that you need a separate hot end extruder for each plastic type and some of them are suitable for specific plastic, is this true or can I just simply use 1 hot end for multiple plastic filament whby sarf2k4 - General
Quotevictorjung Hey, Right forget makibox, printerbot is a nice alternative, otherwise you can go for a full kit from china: like: or: Have fun with your printer! Thank you for your replies guys, I knew Makible has gone suspicious because lack of reviews and videos in youtube, the full acrylic prusa i3+lcd looks great for around $400. What about from this site? They provide 2mm fiberglassby sarf2k4 - General
Hi, I am new to this forum and I am from Malaysia. Been reading a lot of information regarding reprap 3d printers. I couldn't source those hardware myself due to lack of parts especially for specific models for example printed parts for older mendel. I've been considering Makibox since last year but decided to go for Prusa I3 from Replikeo and my budget would be around usd$300-500. I am makingby sarf2k4 - General