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Printing issues ...
I have my bed standing on the Andromeda sensors, which is a little different.
Piezo discs are typically a thin brass substrate, which will stand up to a *reasonable* amount of force fairly well. The discs measure a change in force, and are (properly mounted) quite resilient. If you're mounting your bed on M3 screws, you'll probably be fine. If not, well the discs are cheap. Springs to relieve st
by
SupraGuy
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General
As always, engineering is a trade-off. "Good enough" is always the point that you go to, because there's no such thing as perfect. At some point there will always be imperfection in any motion system, that's why engineers and machinists always work to "within tolerance."
Cost is one factor, and though it is less expensive than a good linear guide, for moderate lengths ( <500mm ) it's about co
by
SupraGuy
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General
Within limits, we do this all of the time, but there are limits.
Mesh bed compensation is a prime example of this. We compensate for a build platform that isn't flat and level with software. We cam compensate for a machine that doesn't hold true to the X and Y axis not being perpendicular to each other with software.
Some things we can't do, or maybe we could for one-of cases, but it's cheaper
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SupraGuy
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General
My bad, I should have added that it works fine if I make all of the layers 0.2mm, or 0.25mm. It's only when I reduce the layer height to 0.1mm that it exhibits the problem.
Edit: I also just ran the model through 2 of the web based services, and it doesn't seem to have problems. I can't attach the STL file, but the TinkerCad model is here:
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SupraGuy
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Slic3r
I don't have a photo. (edit: Not true, see attachment.)
My Bowden extruder had 6mm threads for a tube fitting under the extruder, I believe that this is typical.
My hotend had 1/8" NPT threads for the tube adapter fitting on it.
I fit them together by purchasing a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" "nipple" fitting. Then I ran the nipple fitting though a 6mmx1mm thread die. The end result is a solid brass fitti
by
SupraGuy
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General
So I put together a little model in TinkerCad, it's just a little business card holder. The walls are 1.5mm thick, and I have it set for 0.5mm extrusion width.
It's set for a 0.2mm first layer, and 0.1mm layers after that. The model is about 75mm tall. About 60mm up, looking at the layers, they just... stop. The layer exists, but there's no extrusion in it. About a mm later, it resumes. I though
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SupraGuy
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Slic3r
Quotekulfuerst
I'm having an issue where I cannot z-probe, because my z-min endstops trigger slightly above the bed. When probing, the triggering z-min endstops cause and error and probing fails. I've not found any way to solve this (turning off z-min endstops when probing would be a solution but this doesn't seem to exist in marlin). Does someone here have an idea?
So if I'm reading what you wa
by
SupraGuy
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General
Just remember that pressure is not equal to flow.
A fan might not be able to deal with a lot of back pressure, but in free air, it can generate a lot of air flow, which is what we need for cooling. A pump can generate a lot of pressure, but not always a lot of flow.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
the only significant difference between my bed.g and yours is that I have H0 specified in the G30 commands. My X and Y values are a little different but I don't think that matters much.
; bed.g
M561 ; clear any bed transform
G30 P0 X35.0 Y137.5 H0 Z-99999
G30 P1 X185.0 Y137.5 H0 Z-99999 S2
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SupraGuy
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Duet
My first thought was the same as dc42, that is that a Delta has a circular limit anyway.
I would probably opt for "none of the above."
What is the actual result that you want? Putting something into a dish in a precision manner is all well and good, but you'll need to have that precisely aligned with your build platform. For a petri dish, these typically have flat bottoms anyway, why not put h
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
This seems to be inherent with the .STL file layout, in that it does things as polygons without arcs.
I know that Tinkercad has this problem, which can be resolved by rotating the "cylinder" based on the number of sides, so that the measurement is edge to edge, instead of corner to corner. Tinkercad's default cylinder is a 20 sided polygon, which can be increased to 64 if you want. If you rotate
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Front and back, left and right are tricky to use.
When you are speaking of a car, for example, you say these things as from the driver's or passenger's perspective, facing the normal direction of travel, front is then the part of the car that is towards the normal direction of travel, and left is 90 degrees counter-clockwise from that.
In the case of a 3D printer, we often want to use the persp
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SupraGuy
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General
Gah. Nevermind.
by
SupraGuy
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General
I have one printer that is pretty much dedicated for ABS printing. It's mostly enclosed, and I print with it mostly covered with a towel to keep out air drafts, and keep it warm inside. Even then, there's a limit to how large of complex I can make a part. My leadscrew printer is set up for, and has only had PETg through it, because it's more dimensionally stable. ABS has a relatively high shrinka
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SupraGuy
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Printing
I think I currently have my dive speed set to 780mm/min, I was bouncing around that figure, it might be tweaked to 810. It was a little inconsistent in places at 600, and the motors didn't like stopping it at 1800. :p
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SupraGuy
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General
The forces during operation are whatever falls within the motor's operation without skipping steps.
Even if the motor is commanded to do something that it doesn't have the power to do, so long as it's capable of "catching up" before that hits a full 2 step cycle, the motor will go to the commanded position, even if that's only a microstep or two.
Now, keep in mind that the distance traveled wil
by
SupraGuy
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General
I had a lot of tweaking into my mounts when I first put them together. Some things would bind, which killed sensitivity. They still work better in some places than others. If they work when you tap with a finger, it might be a matter of probe speed. mine work better at a slightly higher probe speed.
I can't help with Marlin settings, since I'm using a Duet.
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SupraGuy
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General
To connect 2 steppers in series:
Take the 4 wires on your control board, they are A+ A- B- B+
Control board A+ goes to motor 1 A+
Motor 1 A- goes to motor 2 A+
Motor 2 A- goes to control board A-
Control Board B- goes to motor 1 B-
Motor 1 B+ goes to motor 2 B-
Motor 2 B+ goes to control board B+
In this way, the amount of current driven by your stepper drivers goes through both motors. The ef
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SupraGuy
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General
Well, in reality, the motors hardly ever actually do exactly as they're commanded, or else in between each pulse, the print head would come to a complete stop. If you applied the same math to a 100mm/s linear move on one axis, it becomes clear that this isn't what happens.
Also, there's the nature of the stepper drivers. 16X microstepping is a pretty common configuration, so that 100 steps/mm is
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SupraGuy
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General
Okay...
Well, those 9 tooth pulleys are new to me, but that looks like a standard belt to me.
There should be jumpers underneath those drivers, but it's probably safe to assume that they're set to 16X microstepping. All bets are off for that extruder, since it looks like it have a gear reduction box on it.
So at .9degree steppers, each rotation is 400 full steps, at 16X microstepping, that's 6
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, with the new firmware, you're starting over from scratch, but if you have the old configuration.h file, then you can copy any settings over. You'll have to go through both files to see what they are. F3(search) is your friend using most Windows based text editors. If you don't. then you're going to have to really start over.
For the squished Z, if it's evenly happening, it's possibly the s
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I have a few things where I wanted to reinforce the wall strength like you describe.
My solution was to put a set of 1mm diameter holes spaced 1.6mm from the main hole and from each other around the hole that I wanted reinforced.
At 0.4mm extrusion width, this makes the space between the holes 4 lines wide, and the tiny triangles between them get filled solid. I put them in a set of 6 pairs (12
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SupraGuy
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General
What firmware are you using? how did you adjust the extrusion rate?
If you used an extrusion multiplier to adjust the extrusion amount, the amount that the firmware thinks that it's extruding might not be 100mm, There can also be some pretty funky things with volumetric extrusion.
It might also be worth seeing if your X and Y axes also move at a different speed. See if commanding those axes to
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SupraGuy
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General
Ah the bane of my 3D printing experience.
This is very difficult to clear up. I basically had to replace all of the hotend parts, heat break, block and nozzle before I could clear this up.
If you disassemble the existing parts, you can probably clean them up adequately by running a thread tap through the block, and a die over the nozzle and heat break, then carefully cleaning the mating surfa
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SupraGuy
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Printing
That looks a lot like what my I3 started doing before I scrapped it.
Mine had the additional complication just before then of forgetting how to print a circle, but that was a more simple matter that the belt holder on the Y axis was doing something weird, and I was able to fix that.
I would suspect some issues with the extruder for the blobbing and layer issues that your print shows. In my case
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SupraGuy
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Printing
@Alex: I can't see from that picture what is supposed to apply pressure to the Andromeda board.
Generally speaking, what you want is a mount where pressure from the hotend against the bed will try to flex the Andromeda circuit board. This is usually done by mounting the ends to the frame, and the center to the bed. In that case, Irdis' example drawings show this quite well.
in your picture, it
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SupraGuy
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General
I'll assume that your X and Y endstops work.
The Z endstop is possibly a different type. I'm not familiar with the A8 myself, but assuming that you did not change the hardware, I thought that the A8 used a normally closed sensor for the Z axis.
there's a wiki page here: [3dprint.wiki]
It has some specific changes for your configuration in Marlin.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I started out with a cheap kit. It was capable of printing, but it was never particularly good, and ultimately wasn't even fixable to become good.
I bought a slightly better kit (And because it was 2 years later, was actually about the same price. That one is actually pretty good now, with the addition of a heated bed. It has its issues, but overall I am fairly pleased with it.
In the process o
by
SupraGuy
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General
Well, your control board has an output for a heated bed, so there are a couple of things that you need to determine.
Can you update your firmware to support it? Marlin is more than capable, provided that you got the standard configuration files. Actually recompiling and updating the firmware is another matter, but it certainly should be possible. That probably means that the control board is a M
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SupraGuy
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General
This kind of service is why I'm happy that I paid Idris for my piezo sensors. He's been really good to me, too.
The described behavior definitely says that the Duet disables the pullup resistor for analogue monitoring. Good to know.
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SupraGuy
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General