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Printing issues ...
There should be a pullup on the Duet Wifi (That\s what I'm using, too.) That is NOT a good setup for your M558 definition. Mine is as follows:
M558 P8 H8 F780 I1 T9000 R0.8 Z1 ; Set Z probe type to unmodulated and the dive height + speeds
edit: This was from an older backup of my config. I have since edited the dive height and speed, but this works. I'm also using hte piezo as the Z endstop, as y
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SupraGuy
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General
I understand the confusion. This seems to be one more case of a term used elsewhere that's different for this application. (If you've been around a while, you'll see lots of ... discussion about the term "jerk.")
When I saw the term "dead time" my first thought was the same as yours, but since we aren't dealing with AC waveforms, or switch-mode power, I had assumed that once again, we're dealing
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SupraGuy
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Duet
QuotealexspellerI bought 3 Andromeda boards and the universal PCB. I managed to make it work great, but it only works for a few seconds. Then it completely stops working and I have to either unplug and replug the board or turn the printer off and on again to get it working. It works instantly again after power cycle.
That is not normal behavior.
I'm using the Andromeda sensors and a generic boa
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SupraGuy
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General
1600 steps/mm is right for a 2mm pitch/lead screw, driven by a 1.8degree/step motor at 16X microstepping.
200 steps/revolution * 16x microstepping / 2mm = 1600 steps/mm These lead screws do exist, but aren't very common from what I've seen.
For my I3 printer, I had 0.8mm pitched screws (5mmx0.8mm pitch) which needed to be set up with:
200 steps/mm * 16x microstepping / 0.8mm = 4000steps/mm. If
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SupraGuy
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Printing
1.3 Ohms is reasonable for a 12V heated bed, that would be about 110W, drawing about 9A of current.
A thermistor shorted to ground can do some weird things Shorted to power could do some other things, some of them very bad, like destroy your control board. Protecting from short circuits is a good thing, people should do that.
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SupraGuy
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General
...Or the jumpers are not correct for the Z driver. If the control board is using a RAMPS or clone, then the jumpers to set micro-stepping might be wrong for the firmware. I googled the printer, and I found it, but I can't see the control electronics.
Edit: I see that it has a touchscreen, which implies that it's not Marlin firmware. It may not include source.
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SupraGuy
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Printing
QuoteMKSADo you work as a automobile mechanic ?
They too start by replacing the most expensive and unlikely parts (ECU, unrelated actuators, sensors...) before looking at the basics (fluid levels, fuses, connectors, wires...).
Sounds like you've had some bad experiences there. I can say that isn't the way the auto mechanics that |I choose to pay operate, but then I'm a car guy myself, and more o
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SupraGuy
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General
FWIW, when I said to check for Vin at the bed heater, I did not mean across both terminals, I had meant just the Vin pin, with reference to the power supply ground. Then check the negative terminal for continuity to ground, but it appears that your board is older than a v1.04, so there's no Vin fuse on the bed heater circuit. It would have been nice if the problem were as simple as a blown fuse.
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SupraGuy
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Duet
If I want single wall, it's not too hard to do, if you know what printer you're aiming for.
If you make the walls a multiple of the printer's nozzle diameter, I don't tend to have problems with the slicer. I've done that in order to try to remove a patterned infill in places that I just want walls with no infill. For most of us, that;s probably 0.4mm as a single wall.
I'd probably use the honey
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SupraGuy
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Printing
My MBot clone does that when the endstop switch is triggered. Since it uses one as a sort of Z probe, this sometimes happens when the print gets a little fuzzy. it does not stop it from printing or moving though.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, one of the simple ways to deal with it might be to just use a different heater channel and an external MOSFET. There are several such on the expansion header (Diagram here: )
I'd want to check first though. You seem to have a multimeter, so just check that you're getting voltage on the bed pin.
If you are not getting +Vin on the positive pin, then you have a different fault. (On the V1.0
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SupraGuy
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Duet
I wouldn't use G90/G91 that way myself at the end.
G90 should be used to set absolute positioning. G91 for relative positioning.
To do what (it seems) you want:
M104 S0 ; Turn off hotend
M140 S0 ; turn off heated bed
G91 ; set relative positioning
G1 E-3 ; retract 3mm
G90; set absolute positioning
G1 X10 Y10 F6000 ; send print head close to origin.
M84 ; power down motors
Off the top of my he
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SupraGuy
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Printing
You should not need to change your printer firmware to change nozzle size, Changing it in the slicer should be fine, provided that you aren't changing the extruder or filament diameter.
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SupraGuy
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General
I'm working with it this way. I have a couple of pieces of 3/4" aluminum square tube bolted to the bed carriage with holes in it that allow the Andromeda to be mounted to it with 10mm stand-offs. Then there's a screw through the bed that goes into a 3D printed thumbwheel that is 10mm tall. The thumbwheel sits between the 3/4" tube and the Andromeda.
The component of that look like this:
The o
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SupraGuy
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General
it is true that 3 points define a plane, but human beings for whatever reason seem to really like having 4 legs on things.
It's not dissimilar from having a table or chair wobble on a slightly uneven floor.
You can make the adjustment. I generally leave one screw loosened until the other 3 are set, then try to carefully set the last one in place. For some more flexible beds, I've done this leav
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SupraGuy
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General
If it's an Arduino(clone or otherwise) and a RAMPS board, you might as well use the newest Marlin firmware for it that you can get. For that firmware version, get the newest Arduino IDE. You may need an older IDE for older firmware versions, which can be problematic. Using the latest stable version of the IDE and Marlin firmware is the best bet to get it to compile and upload successfully.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
QuoteMKSA
Description on Chinese sites are totally irrelevant, a mix of incorrect specs, overinflated qualities, all expressed in something that looks like english, sounds like english, walk like english but is NOT english !
What talking about? Chinese sites all the time use the proper English, Can understand by everyone!
I would never take any brand name labelling from Ali Express as being accu
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SupraGuy
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General
Since you seem to be opting to do this...
Buy a 24V supply large enough to power everything. Since the bed is the largest power drain, you probably already are.
The things that are V||in supply dependant are in 3 groups: the bed, the hot-end and fans. The above wiring converts just the bed. For the same investment in parts (the power supply) you can convert it in a better way.
Connect Vin to t
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SupraGuy
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Duet
If you just need to get it working again... Use a soldering iron and some scrap filament.
The soldering iron gets pretty hot, so you'll want to be careful not to let it burn things, but it's not too hard to get cracked 3D printed items to hold together using a soldering iron, and you can melt scrap filament to reinforce the seam without a lot of problems. It's not without risk, you can REALLY sc
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I've been playing with ideas. I'm happy with the Precision Piezo kit that I have, so I haven't done anything with it, but I have a kitchen scale that the LCD display died on, but so far as I can tell still works. I've taken the sensor from that, and wanted to play with it. I think that's an FSR that the scale works on. It seems like an idea. Considering that the kitchen scale is cheap, or in this
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SupraGuy
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General
Thought of this, and same thing. The nozzle spends its time extruding very non-conductive plastic, some of which ends up on the nozzle.
Using a steel or aluminum build plate, this would seem to be kind of a no-brainer otherwise. In this case, I would connect the sensor end to the hot-end, and ground the build plate. Pull-up resistor for the hot end, and contact to the grounded build plate would
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SupraGuy
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General
@Cosmic52: I see nothing in that design that puts pressure on the sensor. Any force between the groove mount and the hot end will be taken by the stand-offs surrounding the sensor, so there is nothing to trigger the piezo.
Is the aluminum mounted to the carriage? It may be better to do something there.
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SupraGuy
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General
1. I don't have one. The web interface is plenty good enough for most of what I want. I'm looking at adding a couple of buttons to a panel for some functions, but that's definitely not a need.
2. I didn't find it that bad personally, but YMMV. There's pretty decent support both here and on the Duet forum. The on-line configurator tool will do most of the work for you, which you may or may not wa
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SupraGuy
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Duet
100nF is 0.1uF. These are common disc capacitors in many things, a dead computer PSU should have dozens.
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Which version of the Arduino IDE do you have installed? I had 1.1.8 fail on me, because I was running an older version, but it worked fine once I upgraded. YMMV.
If it's able to upload (and presumably run) a different sketch, then it could be a compile error with the newer source code.
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Should be possible to build a better one on a similar budget.
But that's the first question. What kind of budget are you looking to spend? How much would you be willing to spend for better results? What kind of results are you hoping for?
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SupraGuy
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General
Quoteleadinglights
Mike
My problem with this is that it makes 2 assumptions, which aren't necessarily true.
1. That there is no friction in the system.
2. That the piezos measure force. this is not actually correct, they measure a rate of change in force, which is a different matter. In your third diagram, the piezo that sees 2F is also seeing it at 0.5v, whereas the one seeing -1F will see
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SupraGuy
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General
For me, the biggest disadvantage to the underbed sensors is the need to level the bed. by definition there, you can't have the mechanism completely constrain everything. Of course if you build everything to need no adjustment, then you could, but then if you did that, you'd have no need for a Z probe in the first place, all you'd need is to home Z, and you'd be done.
Any time you allow the bed t
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SupraGuy
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QuoteleadinglightsOn tests I have been able to indicate that the response is withing 10% across the whole build stage - including outside the triangle of sensors.
I'm pretty sure that I said that you can get "close enough" but percentage isn't a measurement, unless you state what it is a percentage of. So what does that mean in real terms?
I've got my Andromeda sensors to less than 0.1mm consist
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SupraGuy
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General
As an Andromeda user, I can verify Idris' statement.
The design for the mount is non-trivial, and has a HUGE effect on the ability of the sensor to do its job. And if you think that keeping the nozzle still with the probe attached is difficult, try keeping the BED stable and still. It can be done, and excellent results are possible.
I have gone with underbed sensing, but if I were to do it agai
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SupraGuy
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General