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Printing issues ...
@CharlieRC: I have a belt driven (MakerBot clone) and a leadscrew printer. I'm using very similar slicer settings in each as far as requested print speeds go, with printing pretty much topping out (bridging is set for 70mm/s) at about the same requested speeds.
In general, the leadscrew printer (2mm, 4 start 8mm rods) doesn't seem to be having trouble keeping up. I COULD probably bump up the spe
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SupraGuy
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General
The important factor is Amperage, not voltage.
In general, motors rated with lower voltage will be rated higher amperage, with the overall rated wattage about the same. Therefore doubling the rated voltage halves the rated amperage. Since you don't have the rated amperage specified, it's hard to say.
I think the nema 17 motors that I have are rated for 3.6V, but I don't remember anymore. I know
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SupraGuy
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General
I would concur that a popping sound accompanying a gap like that is almost certainly moisture in the filament.
If you're CERTAIN that the filament is dry, then it's worse. Air bubbles in the filament.
I also agree that your first layer is being printed too high. This is most likely a homing/bed levelling error.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Induction heaters are still not great to burn out molds.
Unless you're going to use iron (or graphite) plates as a part of the mold for the induction heater to heat it up. Since most of the instructions that I've seen say to make the mold from plaster and sand, the induction heater isn't going to do anything to that at all, and certainly not the the plastic.
Fortunately we don't need to get to
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SupraGuy
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General
it depends.
What kind of surface preparation are you going to make for painting the bed? That will make all the difference i the world as to how well the paint sticks to it. How good are you at spraying the paint? Are you going to put more than one layer of paint on? How good is the paint?
Note that unless you're doing something really weird, a printer's heated bed isn't "high heat" as far as p
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I don't know. Using an Arduino to replace one of the PP boards is kind of...
It's not like the design isn't open-source. You could build it on some prototyping breadboard with a few dollars worth of stuff from your on-line parts supplier of choice. You may need to substitute a DIP package for the surface mount IC, but those should all be available.
I have original parts, because aside from ship
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SupraGuy
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General
Well, some of the things that I was looking at as advantages to going beltless aren't just avoiding stretch.
one example: 400 microsteps/mm is 25 FULL steps/mm, which gives pretty decent resolution where I don't have to worry about full-steps. 92 microsteps/mm is less than 6 full steps/mm, which means that something knocking the print head to it's nearest full step could result in a problematic
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, since 2mm seems like it should be plenty for retraction, I played with speeds last night. I doubled E maximum speed, (Still not as fast as Slic3r is asking for) which seems to help, but I still get those little pimples on the perimeters.. I thought that might get better with 3 perimeters, but... Apparently not.
At this point though I think retraction is okay, because oozing problems that I
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SupraGuy
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Printing
I'm pretty sure that you can reach reasonable speeds on a RAMPS type board, like say an MKS type. Probably 24V would be a safer supply voltage. I don't know about printing at 100mm/s that way, but then I don't do that as is.
Solving wobble isn't hard to manage with a decent design. Oldham couplers and the like will do their parts, but I didn't find it actually necessary, though I did spend some
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I printed a phone holder, which I intended to put on my dashboard, and I'm having some print issues that I'd like to resolve.
This is printed in PETg at 0.2mm layer height, at 240 deg C. 55mms, 2 perimeters, random seams. The photo was taken with a flash to highlight the issue.
So I've got some ringing on the Y axis at this print speed, it seems a little better on the X axis though. I can prob
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Well, I'm quite happy with the print quality that I'm getting from my leadscrew driven printer. Using the Duet electronics, print head travel speed isn't a problem, I'm able to get up to 100mm/s in either X or Y directions, and actual print speed is fast enough to be limited by the extruder, and not the leadscrews.
I had a Z wobble issue, which I resolved. When I got that taken care of, to my su
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I also reduced my Z accel to 5mm/s/s when homing Z, and as a part of a macro for doing mesh leveling. I wanted to set the piezo sensors as sensitive as I could, and avoid false triggers. My Z acceleration is much more reasonable when printing, so that the whole printer doesn't need to come to a screeching halt every time it needs to lift the nozzle. (I accidentally left it there while trying to p
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SupraGuy
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General
Interlayer adhesion is a pretty consistent problem with 3D printing. There are things that you can do to make it better, depending on what filament you use.
To make something water tight, the layers have to have really good adhesion.
For PLA or PETG, I'd probably try using a slightly less than solid infill rate, but increase your extrusion multiplier a bit. This will cause the shell layers to s
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Well, I ran a 4 hour print last night. I was getting some build-up on the nozzle, but I don't think that it was leaking. For once, the top of the heat block stayed clean, which is a huge improvement.
Overall, I think that I've got it. the build-up on the nozzle is annoying, but I think that's a matter of dialing in the temperature and print speed. I might have to tune extrusion, too. I think tha
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, I had a few setbacks this weekend, so didn't get to the new hotend until late last night. I'd already ordered it, but the one that arrived came with a 12V heater, so I needed to get my 24V heater out if the old block.
Done, hot tightened, and seems not to leak. I just ran a test vase print, about an hour, but I don't see any leaking. Other issues, temperatures seem different than the othe
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
So I have most if it taken apart. I can't get the heater cartridge out because the screw that pinches it has the head stripped out, I'll be drilling that out today, since I want to re-use the heater.
I discovered the problem. When it cooled, the throat deformed the threads in the aluminum heat block instead of sealing nicely to the nozzle. I think that the 285 deg C temperature specified in the
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Anti-sieze is indeed a good idea, and I have lots.
I'm assuming that something here is out of square, it seems the most likely explanation. I ordered a whole new hot-end, and my Amazon app said that it was delivered about a half hour ago, so it should be in my mailbox when I get home. Also in the package is a bag of thermistors, a selection of nozzles, and some 24V fans plus for good measure a c
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
As TDD said, the PTFE tube doesn't go into the heatbreak, and I'm taking that temperature straight from E3D's wiki, which I linked above.
Quotehttps://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+Assembly/6?lang=enStep 26 Hot-Tightening
Hot-tightening is the last mechanical step before your V6 is ready to go! Hot-tightening is essential to sealing the nozzle and heatbreak together to ensure that molten plastic
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Yep. I get that.
I had the throat and the nozzle screwed in together finger tight, then I backed out the nozzle, and screwed in the throat another turn, then tightened the nozzle. As stated earlier, I followed the instructions on the E3D wiki..
I wouldn't be surprised at this point to find that my clone heatbreak isn't flat/square on the end. I suppose that's the next test to see how it looks i
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, I decided to give this stuff a try.
I'm having reasonable success with ABS slurry, and I do like the nice smooth results from having clear ABS slurry on the bed to print on, but I'd like something that I don't have to cut off, and the slurry leaves stuff on the print bed when it's done that's difficult to remove. I placed my order about 15 minutes ago.
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SupraGuy
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Printing
I suppose that I can try again.
I have a lapping block that I use for tool sharpening. It will give a smooth surface that should be better than anything coming out of a machine shop. (Single-digit RA -- roughness average -- for those of you who know how that works.)
I did verify that there was no visible damage to the nozzle or heat break seating edges, and that they did contact. I actually won
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I didn't have a good photo handy, but this is what was going on.
I have since got that cleared up, though I'm not entirely sure where it was. I then had some actual Z wobble (Present in the blue vase print, kind of hard to see in this photo) There were ridges which exactly lined up with the threads in my 5mm rods visible if you look closely, and you can feel them with a fingertip. The purple va
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Tip for the day.
Once the heat block is leaking, just accept that it leaks.
So I pulled the whole thing out, took it apart, cleaned out the melted gunk. from the parts. Took out the metal throat, heat block and nozzle and put them in a 450 deg (230 deg C) oven and gave them a good brushing off to have them as clean as possible. Put them back in the oven at 550 deg (285 deg C) Also, the wrench t
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
If it can be "cheaper and better" that's the best case, but "cheaper and good enough" will generally win. This is why you see things like zip ties being used to hold stuff together. (I use some of those too on my lead screw printer.) They'\re good enough that they either wont' be a limiting factor, or else the limits that they impose will fall within acceptable for the design goals. in the case o
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SupraGuy
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General
I've got a plywood box printer, too, with a similar design.
With both axles being rigid like that, it takes some of the load off of the rear axle. The rear axle is driven by a closed loop belt, and drives both Y belts, but with the front axle being driven by the Y belts as well, reinforces keeping them in sync, reducing some of the torque load on the rear axle.
Does it actually make a differenc
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SupraGuy
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General
The bearings weren't siezed, but had some spalling on the shaft surface. The shaft was a little scratched where it was. I think that it was probably "crap got in there" that shouldn't. They would probably be okay if they were kept to low RPM, but they were relatively high RPM with the 5mm 0.8mm lead screws, They appear to work okay with the replacement bearings, but I haven't driven them past 100
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
It was a bad weekend for wires on my printer. One of the wires for my hot-end thermistor broke, right next to the bead, and my piezo sensor also packed in. What's wrong with this picture?
So yeah, I got no readings at all from the left hand side of the bed. A little touch with a soldering iron, and it's all good. Moriquendi has generously offered to let me test out a new solution, so this printe
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SupraGuy
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General
Thanks for the feedback!
Well, I've completed the switch from the 0.8mm lead 5mm threaded rod to the T8x8 lead screw. I haven't re-printed anything tall enough to diagnose Z wobble with the new setup yet. I've got a looser fit with the nut this time, so it's not likely to exhibit the same problems. I hope. Anyway, I'll see if I can snap some pictures of the old mechanism, but it had a square nut
by
SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, my homez.g looks like this:
; homez.g
; called to home the Z axis
G91 ; Relative Positioning
G1 Z5 F6000 S2
G90 ; Absolute Positioning
G1 X110 Y137.5
G30
And it seems to work. There is no M564 at all in my config.g
What does the code for your Z probe configuration look like? I'll bet that's the issue.
Relevant portion of mine looks like this:
; Endstops
M574 X
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SupraGuy
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Duet
I don't know that it was firmware, if it was, then why would re-slicing the object solve it? it's obviously some combination of factors that something isn't handling well, and is causing a problem. I don't know if the problem lies in the slicer, the firmware, or if it's a bug in one tickling a bug in the other. This is the kind of thing that I often think of as a buffer overflow type problem. The
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SupraGuy
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General