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Printing issues ...
To use the E1 motor as a second Z:
Reinstall the jumpers on the second Z motor output, and plug the second Z motor into the E1 position.
In your config.g:
...
; Custom Configuration
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; Set Z motors on drives 2 and 4
M671 X-43.0:309.0 Y137.5:137.5 S4 ; Set the Z motor relative locations
...
Nothing else should need changing. Note that the X coordinates for t
by
SupraGuy
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Duet
I've had thermal runaway errors in exactly the same spot when printing gcode files, and they happen in exactly the same spot multiple times. (Last one was ~3 hours into a print, very annoying) i can compare the aborted parts and they're identical, down to the position of the print head indent from when it got the error.
For whatever reason, re-slicing the object solved the problem.
by
SupraGuy
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General
Have you tried re-slicing it?
I had a problem where my printer would report some sort of thermal protection shutdown while printing. I tried it again, and got the same shutdown at exactly the same point in the project.
Went back to Slic3r, re sliced the project, with the exact same settings, and it printed no problem.
I could identify the exact line of gcode that it was executing when the prob
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Don't double the current, that's the advantage to the serial wiring, is that the same current goes to both motors.
That's also the problem with serial wiring. The load (resistance) gets doubled, so 12V might not provide enough push to get both motors moving.
Parallel wiring halves the resistance, but requires double the current. This is why it would probably work well as a solution.
As I said,
by
SupraGuy
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Duet
TinkerCAD really isn't CAD. It's a shape builder. There's a difference in the underlying assumptions and certainly in the way that the software is used.
I use it a lot though, as it's very useful for making things for 3D printing.
A few things that make it easier (for me, at least)
Always start with the ruler. I always place it at the lower right hand corner. Having the ruler will automaticall
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SupraGuy
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3D Design tools
So far as I know there should be no difference at all in the motor behavior when they are wired in series versus parallel.
Parallel connection is typical for RAMPS boards. The Duet is wired serial, but the same pulses should reach both motors.
Are you running your Duet on 12V? It may be having some trouble getting enough voltage for 2 motors in series.
Solution #1: re-wire the motors in parall
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Cool.
Next question. What does status "O" mean? It's not listed in the gcode wiki. My spare board started coming back with this lately instead of the expected status "I" (I have a translation for all of the expected status codes
QuoteRepRap WikiI=idle, P=printing from SD card, S=stopped (i.e. needs a reset), C=running config file (i.e starting up), A=paused, D=pausing, R=resuming from a pause, B
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SupraGuy
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Duet
For reference, my V6 hotend is a clone, but I did follow the instructions here:
Which does say to heat things up for tightening. I'm usually pretty careful about torque values, particularly when dealing with aluminum, and used a torque wrench to apply 26 in-lbs torque to the nozzle with the heat block in a vice with silicone baking sheet strips in the jaws. (The termperature drops fairly very q
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I'm having a consistent issue with sealing the heat block on my printers. Last night my printer decided to puke a little blob of melted crap onto my print (I managed to remove it before it ruined the print, but only because I happened to be watching at the right time.) I've started looking into how to seal these, and I've run into a few roadblocks. So, I figured that I'd ask how people do things.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
no, I'm not 100% sure. I don't think that anything has happened to the Duet board though. I't s mounted in a reasonably safe location.
It's possible that the threaded rod just jammed and that there's a problem with the coupler. It's just a 3D printed coupler, so it's not particularly strong, and has pretty wide tolerances for a machine part, after all. (I've been meaning to get better ones.)
I
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Ah the issues never seem to end.
So last night, during a 5mm Z travel, I got this wonderful screeching noise, and it seems that the right side Z motor has just stopped moving.
It is true that I'm trying to get Z motion much faster than I ever did from the I3 running Marlin on the Mega 2560/RAMPS. I think that the current is set about the same (The duet's configuration defaults to 800mA. and I'v
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I see a msg|Box.mode which has a value of "-1", but I don't see a way to read any message data in it.
My code is sending:
M408 S1
It then parses the machine name, Axis number/names, and primes things like machine coordinates,
The it sends the M552
I wanted to parse the SSID and IP address.
So I added another M408 command. I've tried it with no argument, and with an S0 argument. In both cases, I
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Hmmm. One of the things that I was hoping to grab/display with the pi is its IP address, but when I send M552 (Well, N1 M552*32 actually) it doesn't respond with the expected line of "WiFi module is connected to access point SupraGuyWiFi, IP address 10.1.2.3" I get a null response. On the USB serial port, I am getting back: "aux: M552" so I know that the command was received.
I've been doing thi
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Okay, I'm trying a little experiment...
It's just the bare Duet board, connected tot he GPIO serial port on the Pi.\
I banged together a little python script:
#!/usr/bin/python
# Test to interface to a Duet Wifi over the serial port, hopefully able to read
# some keyboard information, (Later have mouse clicks and other inputs) and send
# simple gcode to the Duet serial port and read back resp
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SupraGuy
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Duet
I have one of the Precision Piezo kits. Theirs are configured for 250ms triggers, which the Duet has no problems detecting at all.
I have my M558 code set up to give 0.5s delay before moving, so that if the printer motion causes the probe to trigger, it has time to settle. My sensors trigger all the time while the printer is moving, which doesn't cause a problem. (I did reduce Z acceleration for
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SupraGuy
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Duet
I've also wanted to look at lost PLA casting. I've done lost wax castings before, which are of course much simpler on a small scale.
I would be interested in such a project on an affordable scale, for taking small 3d printed parts to metal in aluminum or bronze.
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SupraGuy
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General
Thanks guys.
I had come to that conclusion in my design phase, but the reality is that mesh probing on my printer is an absolute mess. Also the small degree of slope I had imagined wouldn't be a problem ... seems to be a problem. With the side of the mounting triangle being as small as it is, I imagine that I'm seeing larger issues with flex than I can tolerate for my desired print quality. As a
by
SupraGuy
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General
CoreXY is fine, but moving the whole thing? No thanks. Moving the bed in the Z axis would be so much better. Lifting the CoreXY 8n the Z axis defeats the whole purpose of not having the motors moving.
For the Z rails, (Well moving rails on any axis, really) careful alignment is needed, to reduce wear and noise, but a careful fixed alignment is usually good enough. Some compliance in the bearing
by
SupraGuy
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General
I seem to have developed a problem. I'm still troubleshooting it, but the printer isn't printing straight on top of the last layer. the hot end seems to be solidly mounted:
That's a modification to a bowden extruder to make it direct mount. The brass piece is a 1/4" NPT thread to hose barb fitting. I ran the barbed hose fitting through a 6mm thread die so that it threads into the extruder, and t
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Joking aside...
Power conservation costs money. In order to make this the most efficient possible, you are going to have to trade off, and some things, the only reasonable trade-off is money.
If you do this with small motors and low currents, it won't be fast. That means that you need to keep your hot end hot for longer for a given print. Like a car doesn't get its best fuel economy at very low
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SupraGuy
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General
Well then, please enjoy your holiday!
I'm kind of working on some ideas, too. I'm also heavily tempted to just install the Orion hot end sensor and "be done with it."
To be clear: I don't blame the piezo board or the sensors for my problems, the issue comes down to trying to sense touches to too large an area with too small a sensor base. As such, I figured that I'd share my findings in order t
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SupraGuy
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General
Well, all in all, I have to say that I am very interested in trying something new.
I've been playing with a force gauge and checking the bed for compliance with solid mounts, and I've found that overall, with the area that I have under the triangle of the 3 mount points, it's really difficult to make the bed equally resistant to motion with the sensors as I have them configured. With the solid m
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SupraGuy
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General
I found it difficult to find information on your website.
Some things I suppose aren't really important, but I'd like to know. Mass of product (g) included with each kit, as well as coverage. (I did find a reference to the refill being good for 90"^2)
Instructions for surface preparation, or surfaces that work. Your first post mentions printing directly on metal plate, but since I don't print o
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SupraGuy
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Printing
I've got a huge dead spot on the bed in the front right. I can't seem to make that corner trigger reliably at all, it is always late and heavy. I've tried the 180 degree thing on VR2, and while it's better, I still seem to have issues with it either triggering more or less at random or else missing contract entirely.
The bed is mounted on 3 bearing mounts, located front right, rear right, and ce
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SupraGuy
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General
Heh. My first encounter with magic smoke came from an 8 bit Z80 processor... Unless it was the 6502.
Anyway, it's all good now. Now I need a project to use the other Duet. I'm thinking of starting my CNC router project. I know that the drivers have a 2.4A limit, and the drivers are software limited to something a little lower (2.1A? I'll have to look again.) I was looking at These motors on Amaz
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SupraGuy
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General
If the hot end isn't hot, then it's the heater that's broken.
If the hot end is hot, and the firmware thinks that it's cold, then there's a problem with the thermistor. It's probably not disconnected, or I think the firmware woiuld prevent you from turning on the heater. It may have come away from the heat block, however, and be reporting the temperature much lower than what it actually is.
THI
by
SupraGuy
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General
I've now managed my first successful print in PETg ever. Nothing much, a set of 5mm couplers to replace the PLA ones that I had made originally. It is. however a HUGE step forward as far as I'm concerned.
The print itself is tiny, but it's a fact that I had never managed to get them more than a few layers high before.
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Well, for the time being, I've set up another printer profile in Slic3r.
It seems to work pretty well, and I got my first successful print in PETg ever. Still lots to tweak and fix.
by
SupraGuy
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Printing
Well, I didn't put anything soft in the cups, because that would make putting the lead screw nut onto the bed tricky. I have some adjustment leeway, but not much. It's much better now. Still a little slow on the front right corner, so that shows lower than it should. (The whole bed is sloped slightly front to back.)
by
SupraGuy
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General
So, I went out to the garage looking for a sawblade today, and of course, there it was, in a box of old car parts. WTAF?
All's well that ends well, I suppose.
by
SupraGuy
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General