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Printing issues ...
So with my new printer being imminently ready, I'm starting to look at setting up a profile for it.
To date, all of my printers have run Marlin, and I've always used Slic3r to generate gcode to run it. At some point I installed Cura (No idea what version) and it seems to want to be the default application for .STL files, but I've never even tried to configure it for my printers. Chances are that
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Okay, so with the initial testing of my Duet powered printer complete and pretty much satisfactory, it's time to run some plastic through this thing.
I hadn't given it much thought up 'til now, but this process has taught me maybe just enough to worry about gcode flavor when it comes to things that might go wrong.
To date, my printers have run Marlin in carious iterations, and Slic3r has a "Mar
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Well, I'm certainly not taking a lit of anti-humidity measures, but I'd think that a fresh spool straight out of the vacuum packaging shouldn't have had that problem. Of course it's been out of the plastic a few times in the intervening couple of months. Still, it's not very humid in my corner of the planet (come winter, my filaments will be drying out just by being indoors), it hasn't caused pro
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SupraGuy
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Printing
It might help too to see your GCode file, or at least the first bit of it.
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SupraGuy
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General
I'm sure that it would look right at home on my basement shelves.
I can't say that I know of any offhand that use it for a frame, but for the most part, I can't see why not. The material should lend itself well to holding motors, bearings and other parts securely, and it ought to be more than strong enough.
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SupraGuy
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General
Hmmm. There's a downside to my design. It's a royal pain to pull those sensors to adjust how they're sitting.
I've got it so that it at least needs to hit the bed, but... It's not great.
I'm about as certain that I can be that the centre line of the bed is parallel to the X axis. It's an aluminum heated bed (Measured cold, with no glass) just to get a baseline. I'm fairly certain that it doesn
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SupraGuy
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General
When you use Pronterface (Or any other method to connect to the printer) can you send gcode to the printer to test motion?
For example, when I test motion on the printer that I just designed, I might send:
G28 ;home all axes
G1 Z10 ;lift Z axis to 10mm
G1 X0 Y0 S1 ;move to XY origin
G1 X150 Y0 ;move across the X axis
G1 X150 Y150 ;move across the Y axis
G1 X0 Y0 ;move diagonally back to the ori
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SupraGuy
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General
I'm having a hell of a time debugging my underbed sensors. I have the Universal kit with 3 undrilled 20mm sensors, I believe that this is a V2 board. (As in it looks like the one in the on-line documentation for V2, and not the one for the V1 or the V2.75 boards.)
I dialled in the sensors themselves separately. They're held in place in little "cups" which are on the Y axis rods, with plungers co
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SupraGuy
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General
So it's homing int he X and Y axes?
Does it home in the Z axis, or does it just travel upwards? You may need to reverse the Z motor direction if it's going upwards instead of down towards the limit switch/bed.
#define INVERT_Z_DIR
First step is to check that motion and homing in all axes works.
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SupraGuy
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General
Do you mean where it homes the axes?
somewhere in your configuration.h file will be a part that has stuff like this:
#define X_HOME DIR 1
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1
This will home to (or towards) 150,150,0 (Or whatever your X and Y size limits are.)
If you set these to 1, then it will home to the MAX position. If you set it to -1 then it will home towards the MIN position.
So
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SupraGuy
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General
Quoteo_lampeMaybe your leadscrews and the acrylic frame are too noisy for an underbed Piezo?
I can't discount the possibility, though the X and Y screws aren't moving at all during probing, and most people use Z screws that are similar. It doesn't seem unusually noisy when the false triggers happen, in fact it's quieter than the I3 ever was. The pitch of the noise that it does make is different t
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
I don't know if this is the issue, but sometimes when the print head crosses a perimeter, it can pick up a strand of deposited filament and move it. Slic3r has an "avoid crossing perimeters" setting to avoid this.
Still, it shouldn't happen.
When does it happen? If it's the nozzle dragging something loose, that's a different problem than if it happens when the layer starts. Keep watch of when i
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Quotedc42
If you don't have a PanelDue connected to your Duet, then the simplest option is to use the PanelDue port. This is a standard async serial port using 3.3V signals levels (so you will need to level shift them if you want to connect it to an Arduino with 5V signal levels). You can send GCodes to this port. By default, the baud rate is 57600 and the commands must include line numbers and c
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Quotedlc60
Did you do this all in TinkerCAD? I use this all the time for fast projects, but never for something this elaborate!
Nice work.
DLC
yeah, I actually can work pretty fast in TinkerCAD, though the last couple of updates make it kind of sloggy on my aging laptop. I do have some better CAD software, but I kind of got most of it done with this, since I never really expected to do quite th
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Well, the wiring is much neater now. After blowing up the power supply, I decided to do what I could, and ran the wiring for the carriage and the Z axis into some split-loom. I was going to use drag chain, but it seems overkill right now. Maybe I'll change my mind about htat later, but for now, the split-loom seems to be adequate.
Most of what goes to the Duet Wifi runs inside the space inside t
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
There are a few typical mounts for a J head. It shouldn't be too difficult to find a matching configuration.
Some of the parts will be different for different filament. Most now seem aimed at 1.75mm.
I looked for E3D parts, though it appears that I got mostly clone parts.
A whole new printer seems unnecessary if you are just changing the extruder. If the rest of the mechanism works well, I'd k
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SupraGuy
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General
Well, you have a few choices.
An Ammeter is probably the easiest. This measures current. Put that on your DC line powering the printer, multiply amperes by volts and you get watts.
Still, what you're actually using doesn't represent a peak usage. You'll need some data on your motors, and a little on the electronics for real worst case, ie: how much power do you need for your supply.
The bigges
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SupraGuy
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General
Well, we'll call last night a hard fail.
Most of the mechanical build is done, but I guess my gantry pieces were a bit weak. Also, at minimum Z distance, the gantry pieces hit the motor mounts with the nozzle about 2mm from the bed. I raised the bed by 4.5mm with some shims, and discovered that the rod couplers that I had also interfered with the gantry. That was what resulted in the broken tab
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Perfect, thanks!
Just means that I need to plug in the X=-43 motor into the Z (drive 2) and the X=309 motor into the E1 (drive 4) plugs, as I have them configured here.
So long as my ability to mix up left and right doesn't go into overdrive, as I just noticed that I reversed the direction of where my piezo sensors are actually located. (2 at X=35, and the one at X=185)
So I think that I have
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SupraGuy
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Duet
So, my bed.g file as follows:
; bed.g
; called to perform automatic bed compensation via G32
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Tue Jun 26 2018 20:51:43 GMT-0600 (Mountain Daylight Time)
; Added DMG 08/30/2018 Leel 2 Z motors before mapping bed
G30 P0 X200.0 Y137.5 Z-99999 ; probe near right-hand leadscrew
G30 P1 X10 Y137.5 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near left-hand leadscrew and calib
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SupraGuy
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Duet
Quotedc42
QuoteSupraGuy
Do I need to specify X0 Y1 E3 or will those be okay since they're default? I understand the M584 command must precede the M671 command in config.g.
You need to add E3 because the default is E3:4.
I see. Perfect, that's exactly the info I was looking for.
Quotedc42
QuoteSupraGuy
Can I have the printer adjust the Z level without doing a complete probe map? say when it homes
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SupraGuy
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Duet
So just making sure that I've got a handle on this.
For this machine I will only have the single extruder, and 2 Z motors so I would like to use the (nominal) E1 drive for the second Z motor, instead of running them in series off of the single driver. If I'm reading this right, I need:
M584 Z2:4
Do I need to specify X0 Y1 E3 or will those be okay since they're default? I understand the M584 com
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SupraGuy
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Duet
An addendum to what dlc was saying:
Also, generally the pins are 1A, 1B, 2B, 2A. (This allows you to just change the orientation of the motor connector to reverse motor direction.)
Some steppers have a 6 pin terminal on the motor. you can see which pins you want on that terminal. You will want pins 1, 3, 4, and 6. 1 and 3 are a pair, and 4 and 6 are a pair. (2 and 5 are centre taps for the moto
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
Version 2 almost complete.
A quick virtual assembly of the various pieces.
Designed in TinkerCAD, since it's a nice on-line tool and I can work from wherever I have a web browser. and it was perfectly adequate to the job.
I started assembly of the laser cut acrylic parts last night.
Since I already had the artwork for another fan grille, I decided to use the Imperial Cog for the center of th
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
No 'magic smoke' involved in my forgetfulness. I am not the type to indulge in such, and I can't see that changing even with the imminent legalization of such here in Canada. I can't even blame the vodka in which I do occasionally indulge.
I's most certainly not connected to the old printer, which has been largely dismantled at this point. I scavenged the smooth rods and motors from it Friday. I
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SupraGuy
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General
Are you sure that your 8mm lead screw has a LEAD of 2? Pitch and lead are not the same thing.
I have many 8mm lead screws with a pitch of 2mm and a lead of 8mm. At 16X microstepping, and a 1.8 degree/step motor, that comes to 400 steps/mm.
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SupraGuy
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Reprappers
You said that you uploaded a new Marlin configuration to the board... Do you have the LCD defined and enabled in your configuration.h file?
Edit: Nevermind. Different problem than OP.
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SupraGuy
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Printing
Re-watched the video a few times. It's a little unclear what grade wire you're using. The solder seems to have not too bad a connection tot he heated bed, and it doesn't seem to be a break inside the insulation.
Still, that behavior that soon has got to be a bad connection. If there's some sort of heat spreader, it will take a high wattage soldering iron to get that solder to re-flow well. That
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SupraGuy
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General
I like the simple solutions. Sometimes we overthink the problem and troubleshooting goes down entirely the wrong rabbit hole.
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SupraGuy
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General
The tablet and charger turned up. The Duet and the Pi are still AWOL. The replacement has arrived, and would be connected to my new printer, but somehow I managed to build the frame using my approximation of my motor depth of 45mm (It's 47mm.) and somehow the X axis gantry doesn't quite fit. Fixed the CAD work, now I need to get material re-cut.
I like your story, David. Screwdrivers and I have
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SupraGuy
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General