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Printing issues ...
The assembly does drop without belts, moving without belts the axis is also very smooth from bottom to top.
I am not using counerweights. Bed does not drop when turning the power off either.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hello everyone,
Having some trouble with the Wormgear Nema17 i am using for the Z axis in my new printer.
The output shaft of the gearbox has some play when moving the shaft manually, which makes sense.
I will try to explain the issue with an example;
I electrically move the Z axis down xx mm. The Z axis moves down, after this i want to check how sturdy the Z axis is, so i try to move the Z a
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi There,
I tried to use N52 magnets 3x14x24mm 12 pcs on a 215x215x5mm cast tooling plate. They supposedly lose magnetism at 130c.
There was magnetic effect holding my Spring plate to the heated bed, barely sufficient though.
The store adviced me the magnets will work for 3mm, no guarantee on thicker plates.
The weird thing was that after being heated a while the magnets did seem to lose magn
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi Guys,
My flanged bearings arrived f608zz and f636zz
Now i dont want to use regular bolts, shims and nuts to make it all fit.
Some people use smooth rods with shims, wich aren't ideal either.
The proper way imo is to use pins that have to be pressed into the bearings, i am having a hard time finding the correct name for these. I found them on aliexpress as "shoulder bolts" like these
And
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Thanks for the advice guys, i ordered the brass ones from Robotdigg like Diggrr mentioned.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi fellows,
I am looking for high quality machined gt2 pulleys.
Reprapdiscount makes these but not in the size i need.
I am looking for 5mm bore, 20 teeth and 9 or 10mm width.
The ones i find are molded, of very low strength and poor resolution.
Does anyone have a good adress?
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
These are 20x11 mm rails.
I see the weight as an advantage.
The machine needs to be rigid and i can save on alu extrusions with these. I will use large nema 17 60mm motors and it will be a bowden design anyway.
Paid 200€ incl DHL shipping. Paid the same price as the mgn15 they sell so would be dumb not to take these. As far as i know, these are the only Hiwin clones available in Stainless
by
Govahnator
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General
Hello Everyone,
I was wondering what would be the correct choice for Tslot-nuts in aluminium profiles.
There are models for different purposes, like t-nuts which can be inserted from the top instead of only from the sides of the profile. My guess is that these kinds have more play. Like these ones :
What kinds are best to most easily align lineair rails?
Other Examples :
There are also
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi, i bought them from RobotDigg. They offer a good service.
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi guys!
I got my MGN20 rails delivered.
Yes, they are most defenilty overkill for a 3d printer, but hey i could not resist for the price and they don't bend on transport.. Atleast not in this length. 3x600 + 2x500 mm.
Also, they are 440c stainless steel and will be used in a CoreXy build made out of 4040 and 4080 extrusions.
Take a look:
by
Govahnator
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
My experience with 2 different printers usiing PEI print surfaces and one with a Keenovo heater is that you've got about 2 years of reliable adhesion with the 200MP adhesive that Keenovo uses and the 468MP adhesive transfer sheets also use, if you're heating to ABS print temperature, and printing a lot (almost daily).
SoM has had the PEI restuck to the plate twice and it
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi guys,
Thank you all for your advice, i will listen and not risk the chinese stuff.
I ran into these panasonic 15A SSR's model nr: AQA211VL for a fair price ( Belgian conrad website offers them for € 19,49 incl. tax)
Don't think i can go wrong with these now can i, will run on +-2.7A with my 600w Heater. This means 5W heat (loss) generation, not sure to use a heatsink.
Cheers!
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi all,
I am doing some research about the Fotek SSR-25DA, which seems to be a good choice for a 220v heated bed.
It seems like many on Ebay are knock off's, what a suprise. Interesting read about someone who disassembled some:
He discovered that the counterfeit Fotek SSR-25DA he tested were of good build quality but assembled with parts rated for a 12A SSR not for the claimed 25A. The 40A ver
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Thanks for the info guys!
I ordered a 300x300 600w 220v one, as it seems indeed 750w is overpowered.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi Guys,
Ok i will go for a 300x300mm 600w 220v heatpad then The heater is small since the bed is 340x340
I was not worried about the heat resistance of the fiber wires, more the durability compared to silicone wires.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi Folks,
I am about to order a 300x300 mm Silicone heatpad for a 340x340x6mm Cast plate.
Found this one It is the cheapest i have found, but the picture of more expensive listings is the same.. it seems like 20 accounts offer the same product at different prices, but all from the same store!
Now i would much prefer one like keenovo with silicone cables but i guess i can still use some kin
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Thanks for your reply O_lampe!
]Update:
Found a supplier! Here is the link incase anyone else in Europe needs such a plate, sure was hard to find:
They sell plates from the company Gleich, they call their cast alu tooling plate : G.AL C250 EN AW 5083.
I contacted multiple Belgian companies but they only sold to companies and were expensive.
(Decided to go with 340x340x6mm plate)
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi Folks!
I am trying to source an Aluminium cast tooling plate in Europe and having a hard time.
Some places in the UK offer them at a fair price, but they don't ship abroad, Belgium for this instance.
Found what i am looking for at , but 100 € for a 400x400x8mm plate is to much imo. (will be used with a 220v 750w silicone heater BTW)
Other addresses offer only larger plate's, with a toleranc
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi there,
Maybe i can give you some advice.
What kind of extruder are you using and what filament diameter?
You can used a geared extruder, like a wades or you can use a direct drive extruder, like a bulldog or an mk8.
If you use 3mm filament and want to use a direct drive, you will need a geared Nema motor because it requires alot of torque.
I am using bowden for 3mm filament with a custom b
by
Govahnator
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General
Don't buy small ones.
Bigger ones cost only slightly more, they are worth it.
Search preferably for 1.5 A motor's with around 55Ncm., 1.8 degrees that is
They run so much smoother then those small nema 17's.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
I use a Chinese e3d v6 clone, it IS made using blueprints, however there are some minor differences in dimensions because of the use of manual machines. ( i have 2 original e3d's as well)
I bought a direct and a bowden clone, the 3mm bowden clone was not usable since it was made to specs of a 1.75 mm bowden,they don't know the 3mm bowden uses the normal m6 (because 3mm uses a large teflon tube so
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Govahnator
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General
Hi,
I think many people have had this issue, including me.
They do get damaged when you put them in backwards so i hope yours are fine.
I just got my megatronics v3 back to work, i had a broken fuse in the board, i bridged the original one and placed a car 10A fuse between psu and board.
If it ever blows, i just plug in a new one in the adaptor.
by
Govahnator
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Controllers
Quotefargkenob
Did anyone have to change their xy jerk settings with the igus bearings
I am using them on x and y, haven't changed anything and i like them.
by
Govahnator
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General
Hmm, my v3 isnt doing anytthing but beeps noise and burning ligths when used with test firmware.
I don't even have a d3 diode on my board :s
by
Govahnator
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Controllers
horizontal, but less spacing between the rods, more like 5 cm.
I use 8mm for x axis, but with 10mm i wouldn't worry too much about flexing. Certainly not when you go bowden like me.
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi man,
I have to agree with some of the guys, i don't see why you would want the printer to expand.
You have to solve problems that shouldn't be a problem.
I think it would be better to focus on a 400x400 printer.
Can you tell me what you think is the advantage of such design?
Sorry if i sound negative, it looks pretty cool.
by
Govahnator
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General
Quotemsaeger
You can change over to the full metal V6 by replacing the heat sink and the heat break which is pretty cheap so I would bother messing around unless you have the materials and just want to experiment.
What he said.
Your ptfe right now reaches your heatblock on the lite v6, with the v6 1.75 mm version, the ptfe will be in the cold end alone.
Which, with enough cooling is a good t
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
So, are you saying your laptop is damaged and can't boot since the short ciruit?
I had a short ciruit before aswell, it damaged the audio module on my pc's motherboard.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi Zastin17,
I am in the progress of making a custom mendelmax 1.5, i remodeld pretty much all printed parts , maybe i can give you some advice.
A good thing you changed the z axis design to 2 leadscrews on each side.
I think your y axis extrusions would be better of if they touched the ground , even if it doesn't really shake, the other extrusions will have to take all the vibrations from th
by
Govahnator
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General
Have you used this?
I am wondering if they work well and are safe.
by
Govahnator
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Duet