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Printing issues ...
The stepper shaft has a flat side, it's a large geared stepper, i switched the grub screw to one with a round tip instead of flat, wich seems better but not good enouph.
I will try threadlocker like suggest above
Quoteepicepee
File a flat on the stepper shaft. Then, if it fits, use a full-size M3 instead of the grub screw. It'll let you get more torque.
by
Govahnator
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General
I never had issue either with my Wades before, the issue here is because it is a direct drive extruder.
I didn't even know that existed, i will look out for it, thanks
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi guys,
I was using PC6-M6 for my 3mm bowden setup.
The issue is with Pla filament,i can print abs just fine, pla is a disaster.
The extruder started clicking/skipping when trying to print pla, which it didn't when using it direct drive with the same bulldog xxl extruder.
I changed the robotdigg drive gear to an mk7 drive gear and the clicking/skipping stopped, but after a minute printing t
by
Govahnator
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General
Hi guys,
The grub/set screw of my drive gear in the extruder keeps comming loose.
I tried nail polish ( dried for 2 days ), came loose.
I tried glue , came loose but had to boil out the glue to get the grubscrew fully out of drive gear.
I don't know what to do, The problem got worse since i put a larger nema 17 on my bulldog extruder.
by
Govahnator
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General
Like stephenrc said, 5v on z min max.
I use 2 10k resistors myself, works fine.
by
Govahnator
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General
ordered the long ones with polymer bushings, since i changed to bowden the load doesn't mather much.
I suppose i could replace them with bearings if they don't work well.
I am happy that i can design a new x carriage without printed holders for the bearings and them being secured with zipties, they should be better aligned than at the moment, even if the bushings themselves are no improvement.
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Well the hot end is indeed designed for 1.75mm, but came with a 3mm heatbreak and heatsink hole. So it was designed by someone who doesn't know what he was doing.
I found a heatsink however wich is made for direct drive but has m6 tap for the small coupler, i used this now as bowden and it works fine.
QuoteRlewisrlou666
The problem isn't with the hot end but after reading it sounds like you ar
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
I have used slic3r, cura and simplify 3d, they all give the same result.
The first layer is a bit squished to hold so it doesn't come loose, the other layers are printed correctly with enouph spacing .
I have also tried using the same low speed for all speed settings, same result.
I have never tried changing jerk settings before, i am using the default wich are:
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Ik bied e3d v6 aan voor een goede prijs, ze waren bedoeld voor een workshop die niet doorgaat.
Elke onderdeel van de hot end's is ook gecontroleerd op kwaliteit, grootte van nozzle etc.
Komt met alle electronica.
1.75 mm , direct drive en ook bowden beschikbaar.
3mm enkel direct drive .
Nozzle grootte zelf te kiezen. 0.3/0.4/0.5
Ik heb ze zelf geassembleerd zodat er zeker geen lekken of derg
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Govahnator
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Marktplaats
Hi guys,
I am about to buy some bearing's in an aluminium block, to make a new x carriage and possible new x ends for my mendelmax.
I have crossed alu blocks with the polymer bushings in aswell, wich should i choose, i would use them on chrome steel rods?
or
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi guys,
I am getting my custom mendelmax 1.5 to work OK, but the layer alignment is still not like how i want it to be.
For starting, the first few +- 5 layers can be very much wider then the ones that follow, i have no idea why. I would have guessed to much heat or warping, but that's not the case( there is warping in the print but it has the same effect in prints with no warping), also it i
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
Aha i see xd
Well i am about to open a topic myself about something that looks like z wobble
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Govahnator
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Printing
Quotesigxcpu
I would build another printer and keep this one as is. Prints look amazing.
What in the world are you guys talking about when you say those are good print's?
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Govahnator
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Printing
Do prints with filament of different suppliers look the same, in other words is the problem just the strength?
I have a bunch of old esun spools laying around, abs though, i only tried one yet, and the quality is fine.
by
Govahnator
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Printing
Going direct drive should fix the blobbing and stringing.
I myself am thinking of going bowden though, since i have a heavy direct drive extruder and it limits my probing area..
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
Dag Jonnie,
Ik had je een poosje geleden via je site een bericht gestuurd, maar geen antwoord gehad.
Ik heb nog 1 spoel verpakt liggen, stuur me anders eens een pm.
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Govahnator
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Commerciele aanbiedingen
Dag jonnie,
een poos geleden kocht ik filament van je.
Zwart ABS, Pla Aluminium en Pla koper.
Ik ben tevreden over de kwaliteit van het filament, buiten het Alu PLA.
Hier valt dus niet mee te printen, voortdurend jamms.
Ik had hier jammer genoeg 2 spoelen van besteld.
Het koper Pla daarentegen is het mooiste materiaal waar ik ooit al mee geprint heb.
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Govahnator
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Commerciele aanbiedingen
I bet you checked this yourself but it sounds like there is to much pressure on the filament.
I dont think it would be moist, since your house isn't moisty.
My house is moisty, even my linear bearings are rusted on the outside because of this, i have filament of almost 3 years old laying around here opened, it still works fine.
With nylon it would be a problem, but that even has moist in it w
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
QuoteMechaBits
I bought a spare throat, thought it was M6 all the way...when it arrived it was M7 at the top, I was going to source a heatsink to match but they dont seem to come with thread at top for pneumatic fitting...after reading the hassle your having I might just ditch this throat...but the ptfe in this one passes the heatbreak.
I haven't seen those heatsink's being sold appart.
The re
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
aha!
This shows the 3mm bowden version as all m6. While on the e3d website, if you click on 3mm bowden full kit, it shows a m7/m6 heatbreak the same one as for 1.75 mm.
Indeed the problem i am having would be fixed if my heatbreak and body would be all m6.
They put a wrong picture, no wonder i was confused .
Also, this means that the 1.75mm bowden is temp limited , since it has teflon in the
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
Thanks for the replys,
Well like i said, the filament blocks in the heatbreak.. because normally in the 1.75 mm version of the hot end, the tpfe tube is 4mm, and it goes through the coupler, into the body , into the m7 part of the heatbreak.
Since the tpfe tube for 3 mm filament is 6mm it can't enter the m7 part of the heatbreak. Does anyone know what is done with the 3mm version of the hot end,
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
i did that intentionally,
I didn't want people to start over the fact that it is a clone, while it being different has nothing to do with my problem nor my question..
Btw, if i load the filament manually and then then place the teflon in the coupler, i guess i could print. But i suppose you should be able to load filament through the teflon tube.
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
I am using a 3mm e3d v6 clone, the direct ones are idem to the original, the bowden version is not. It is threadet to accept such a coupler.
I removed the plastic part before drilling and drilled out the pneumatic coupler so the teflon tube gets to the hole of the heatsink. I also drilled out the hole of the coupler for the extruder, it was to small to let filament through.
It is when the filam
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
Oops, I thought i edited the post already :/
Sorry, it's an e3d v6 style hot end.
With 1.75 mm variants, the teflon tube goes from the adaptor straight into the m7 part of the heatbreak.
But what to do with 3mm? It uses 6mm teflon tube, wich ofcourse doesn't fit into the heatbreak and is set against the entrance hole of the heatsink, because of this the filament blocks in the part of the heatb
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
I just realized when using 1.75 mm the teflon tube goes actually in the heatbreak so the problems i have won't exist.
How is it done with 3mm? I am very confused
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
Hi guys,
I am trying to setup a bowden system,
The problem is when the filament (3mm) is in the heatbreak (e3d v6), it blocks when going from the m7 side to the m6 side and won't go trough ( if i aim the filament right manually it can go past it but ofcourse when using the tubing system the filament isn't going straight and blocks there.
The m6 part of the heatbreak is large enough, i can l
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
I started with an i3 myself.
The original prusa i3 uses many printed parts aswell, but your chinese i3 uses metal parts i suppose.
Like Shank man said above, the i2, is no longer relevant, the i3 fixed a bunch of the design issues, but the frame isn't ideal either.
I am currently finishing a Custom mendelmax 1.5 ( yes an older design then my i3) .
With the mendelmax frame you can pretty much
by
Govahnator
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Reprappers
I dont understand,
Why don't you just shorten the wires and use the original connectors?
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Govahnator
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Reprappers
So the solders came loose, tried to resolder them, solder came between 2 pins. Messed up, can i remove the female connector and solder to the pcb? I can't manage to open the nema 17
SOLVED i manged to open it with a flat screwdriver using it to lever in the backhole of the Nema ( i have no idea how to explain decent it in english ).
I soldered to the pcb, after 10 times of resassembling the m
by
Govahnator
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General
Quoteggherbaz
Aliexpress have some nice clones for about 18 dollars, and the adapter for 12. So if you cannot afford the original you have other choice.
That's why i adviced him the robot digg bulldog xl, even if you source all the parts for the cheapest, it will match the bulldog price (72 usd), but you won't be sure everything fit's and works.
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Govahnator
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Reprappers