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Printing issues ...
I used the 12v fan connector. If you need 5v then use 5v. If the a6 control board is lije the ramps 1.4 board, the mosfet switches on the ground side. So instead of 12v, use 5v, the other lead will be switched to ground.
That way you can use gcode that controls the fan to control the laser. You'll have to adapt whatever cam software to use that gcode to switch the laser on and off.
I don't rem
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imqqmi
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General
I now use an air cleaner/purifier with HEPA and carbon filters. It auto detects micro particles and turns on automatically. When printing a longer print in PLA, the indicator light turns red indicating the air quality is very bad. After an hour after printing the smell is gone and the indicator turns blue (clean air).
It definitely helps with stinging eyes and a slight irritation in the lungs an
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imqqmi
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Safety & Best Practices
I'd cut up the print to 180x180x180 as many use brims and other priming around an object. Some also have clamps getting in the way, nibbling from the already limited build volume.
Other than that, I usually try non additive manufacturing first if the size is larger than what my printer can handle and use a CNC or other tools.
I myself wouldn't bother cutting up an object. If someone is crazy
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imqqmi
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Safety & Best Practices
Did you heat up the bed first before leveling? It may warp going from room temperature to print temperature. Do you use bang/back or bed PID? Bang/bang may rhythmically move the bed up and down, a bit like breathing
Check the custom gcode sections to see there's any offsetting pre programmed there. Something like
G92 Z0.5
or something similar.
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imqqmi
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Printing
What layer height did you print this? Is it a multiple of a single step of the z stepper motor? If not it may cause some interference patterns.
The DRV8825 driver isn't the best for 3D printing. When I tested these drivers I've found that they skipped steps and gave me less smooth results. I'd try A4988 drivers or the trinamic ones. Check if the motor current is sufficient to smoothly run the c
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imqqmi
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Printing
I agree with dlc60 for using smaller test parts first. I use even smaller tiles of 20x20x2mm just to get into the ballpark and later (if necessary) use larger test parts or actual objects I want to print. That saves a ton of filament and time, especially if the printer is of poor stability and repeatability is low (a lot of backlash, springiness in parts, compliance).
Also, slic3r default perim
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imqqmi
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Printing
There's an avr simulator on github I found after a google search, may be worth a look:
Also take a look at atmel studio, it has an emulator, though I don't know if you can load arduido generated code:
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imqqmi
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Developers
Is it mainly with the first few layers? It could be the first layer not sticking properly, curling up so the next layer the nozzle bumps against it. This causes noise and sometimes layer shifts. Try printing slower for the first layer and or adjust the bed temperature and nozzle temp.
Also make sure the bed is clean, and has a good print surface like pva glue, kapton tape, hairspray, pei or bui
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imqqmi
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Printing
Is it possible to upload a fresh new firmware? Maybe the flash memory was partially reset or damaged? Reset the storage eeprom as well.
If it works manually controling the x and y axis it may be a different problem. Do you have some old gcode that worked previously? If so, try to find the problem aree by copying the old to new fils line by line and testing the gcode.
Other than that, yep I agre
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Does it sound like it's skipping steps when retracting for example? This usually gives an awful sound. If not, chances are that acceleration isn't the problem 25mm/s^2 isn't that high.
If it isn't skipping steps just keep bumping it up until it does then back it off until it starts working properly and reduce it some more to be safe. That should be the maximum your setup is currently capable of.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
You'll need to use a transistor or mosfet or levelshifter/driver and a diode to short the back current the coil may produce which can damage the transistor. Most mosfets already have this diode though. Easiest is to use a uln2003 type driver ic. It's a robust chip thats often used to drive inductive loads. You can use the arduino io directly on the inputs, and by powering it with 12V will drive a
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imqqmi
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General
In marlin this can be controlled from the menu if you've got a display. That way you can adjust it without having to upload the firmware for every change. From memory, go to control, motion, z offset.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Did you try a different psu? Maybe it's on its way out.
What about the coldbreak fan, the filament might get stuck if it's not spinning or not moving enough air through it.
What type of stepper driver are you using? The drv8825 has some trouble at low rpms for example, which can cause problems when using it as extruder driver.
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imqqmi
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Printing
Interesting concept. Another hurdle is going to be writing a slicer that would be able make toolpaths, unless the 3d printer can figure out what goes where. Im no expert, but I'm not aware of any existing slicer that works with this motion system. I'd create a poc slicer and a simulation of the motion system first to iron out the most obvious problems. How are the two extruded paths joined? There
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imqqmi
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General
I'd first go through the whole mechanical build and use a zero assumption strategy.
- is the hobbed bolt or gear slipping?
- is the tensioner too tight or too loose? Is the filament idler bearing still ok?
- extruder motor getting hot, skipping steps, makking loud noises?
- is the filament new, clean and the path clear of debris?
- is the step stick overheating?
- is the temperature of the hotend
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imqqmi
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Printing
Maybe the mosfet has failed open, ie it's now directly connected to ground and not responding to the control signal either replace the mosfet or replace the board.
I haven't experienced this problem myself but it can happen.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Sounds like its binding. Check if it can mov3 freely all the way down to the bed. Maybe you can increase the motor current a little?
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imqqmi
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Printing
The power is stored so if there's a glitch on the mains power net it may be able to filter it out without your print failing and keep riple to a minimum, which can interfere with electronics like cpu/microcontrollers.
Some boards rely on a slow power off so it can store the position/layer to resume from that point onwards on next power up. If the power drops too quickly it might not be in time
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imqqmi
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General
My corexy has similar artifacts, I didn't realize it could be due to toothed idlers. I thought it was due to my nema23 steppers. Thanks for bringing this up!
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imqqmi
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CoreXY Machines
You can try different thermistor lookup tables or create your own if you've got a reliable temperature probe, ie a thermocouple with an accuracy of around 2 degrees c.
But if the reading is fixed at that value, even though you hold the thermister in your hand you may have a wtong value or broken thermistor. It could point to a broken arc input port. Swapping pins may help.
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
I use my cnc with a manually controlled (rpm wise) spindle and works well for me. I could connect the 10V control signal to the cnc controller board but it's not really a priority. It's nice to control rpm from gcode but not a must.
Normal 3d printer controllers don't have 10 control signals, it may be pisdible with an pwm based signal though, but it depends on how the spindle is driven, with a v
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
I agree with Ohmarinus, the 3d print3r shoukld be setup with the max acceleration and velocity it can handle so that whatever a slicer throws at it, it doesn't skip steps.
Just write some gcode that repeatedly goes back and forth 150mm at the highest velocity so that it doesn't skip steps for every axis, then subtract some safety amount like 5 to 10% and save that as default in firmware or eeprom
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imqqmi
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Printing
If you do manual G29, you can't use G28 after that,vit will reset the levelling data. So if you do manual g28 an g29, remove any other g28 and g29 in the sliced gcode.
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imqqmi
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General
I'd just experiment with it, set the current to the lowest setting then keep bumping it up until it runs smoothly without skipping steps. Create some gcode that runs the z axis up and down at the maximum velocity and reversing instantly (which tests acceleration/deceleration). There's a balance between noise and smoothness too. If you can't find a setting that's to your liking you can look into a
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
In addition to TDD, a duet works over the network so any phone, tablet or laptop can be used as control panel. If you choose a wifi version, you don't need wires. I went from a RAMPS with lcd screen and thought I would miss the LCD but it turns out I like the web control better It's much quicker to navigate and there are many more options available like entering gcode commands, restarting a prin
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imqqmi
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General
I use screw connectors like these and use it with 24V psu and 12V heater cartridge (unsafe, I know, but it heats up nice and quick in 20-30 secs, but can melt the aluminium block at 700+ degrees C). No issues after 100+ hours of printing.
No crimping required, but some soldering is necessary on the male side. I've found it to be really handy servicing the hot end, being able to detach it complete
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imqqmi
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General
Agreed, the U bend mounting plate acts as a spring. Remove any form of springiness in the whole system. Just push and pull on the toolhead without moving the stepper motors. If it moves you need to fix 5hat first.
My guess is that when the hotend moves, the bowden tube starts swinging to and fro causing the U profile to bend in the same motion. If it's not rigid enough you'll see it in the print
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imqqmi
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General
If the axis wobble that much it would be visible and maybe audible too. Is the printer shaking to bits? When you extrude freely doed the extruded filament come out in a straight line, straight down?
Please show us the mechanics, steppers used, drivers etc. It may well be under extrusion or layer heights that are too large or something like that.
All plastics absorb moisture to some extent but
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imqqmi
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General
Mine was 1.26 ohms so at 12V it's about 9.5A, at 24V it was 19A, and on average 14A with 75% pwm (could also have been at 50%, I don't exactly recall). In practice though, due to losses in cabling and other stuff it was well below that. When heated up the resistance goes up, current goes down too.
I guess I was lucky I used the same technique on a heater table I made based on an aluminium heat
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imqqmi
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General
Maybe a simple network configuration tool could be made so it's easier for beginners to set it up? Something that replaces the terminal client part should be trivial to make. Just connect the board using an usb cable for one time to set it up and let it auto detect the setial port. Input the wifi password and ssid or ethernet settings, save, and retrieve the ip address and report back to the use
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imqqmi
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General