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Printing issues ...
As Xelad said, you need to adjust the z offset. This can be done in firmware, gcode or using the LCD if you own one.
First find out what the z offset is by homing using G28, then moving the z axis down manually (use pronterface or repetier host v1.04) until a single sheet of paper moves with a little resistance under the nozzle. You might want to move the nozzle to the middle of the bed G1 X100
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
The amperage should be around 9-10A, depending on the heated bed resistance. If you own a DVM that can meter <1 ohm you can check if it's below 1.5 Ohms.
The same can be checked for the wiring and soldering, if there's a voltage drop from the solder joints to the 12V connector you'll loose power.
The higher the voltage, the less wiring will have an effect on the amount of power that can be
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
If the current isn't the problem, check if the z axis isn't binding, ie lubricate the Z nuts, and check if they're parallel. Can you turn the Z rods by hand?
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I see. I'm not familiar with the MK8 design but after looking at a few pictures I think I've figured out how it works. The spring puts tension on the idler and there's no direct way to tighten it by screwing it in or out. What you're looking for is either a stronger/longer spring or compress it more so that it applies more pressure on the idler. You could add one or two extra bolts and/or washers
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hold the motor still and try pulling the filament out, it should be tight, not slipping. If that's working try recalibrating the extruder steps per mm, check if the slicer extrusion multiplier is set to 1 and the diameter is correct. Check motor current. That should do the trick.
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think there's anything wrong. A PCB is a glass fiber epoxy which is a good heat insulator. When placing the thermistor on the component side the thermistor is thermally insulated from the track side of the pcb. so the temperature indicated by the thermistor is now different.
Another effect of flipping the pcb is that all the heat is going into the glass plate instead of heating up the th
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
It's part of the fun It's a great sense of victory if you've sorted out all the challenges you've faced to get it to print properly. I assure you there are many more challenges ahead, so you better enjoy the challenge I had to battle every step of the way building a prusa i3 but in the end it was worth it, and I enjoy challenges like this that have electronics and mechanical parts. Most of the
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
In addition to mikes post, If you don't see the lower log part, click on the toggle log button at the top. The responses of the printer will appear below.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Maybe it's a dud. If you have a multimeter, check if 5v to ground is shorted. If not I'd replace the ramps board.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Either move the endsteps or add some gcode to the start gcode in the slicer, just after homing G28:
G1 X34 Y12 Z0
Then set this new position as the X0 Y0 Z0:
G92
As for the z steps per mm, it depends on the steppersticks microsteps and the z rods thtead size, the mm per full 360 degree rotation. M5 rods are around 0.8mm. So you'll need 1/0.8 mm = 1.25 turns per mm, the number of steps per turn o
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
-Could be:
- temperature of hotend try lower temperatures
- try lowering print speed, tweak xy jerk, this will help with the corners
- see if your slicer prints wider on the first layer, often like 200%. It depends on your nozzle if it prints well. I'd try setting it at 100% and see if that improves it.
- recheck the z offset, try increasing it if the extrusion overlaps too much. Try to aim for a
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
The end stops define the point for each axis as zero reference. If the z is off by 2 inches, adjust the z offset by about -50mm which can be adjusted in firmware, gcode or through the display. If you're using marlin you can find it under control/motion.
for x and y axes you need to move the end stop switches to the desired location. Make sure to fasten them tightly. Just move the x carriage to
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
Switching psu's don't take putting in series very well, and in parallel with a diode isn't going to work as the voltage drop over the diode will interfere with getting the power into the heated bed. You need a 19 to 24V psu 15 amps or more, set up the firmware so that it puts 11 amps average max. Iirc i set mine at 192 duty cycle (192 from 256 is 75%). If you fail to do so the 12V heated bed will
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imqqmi
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RAMPS Electronics
Do a visual check where the smoke came from. First check the chips and transistor, use your nose to detect burned electronics. If it's an easy to replace component and you've got basic soldering skills you could consider replacing it. If not, replace the board.
Check all voltages before connecting a psu using a voltage meter/dvm
I'd disconnect everything from the arduino and ramps board. First
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
You may have to adjust the motor current first. If all the motors are drawing too much current the steppersticks overheat and temporarily shut down. That may ecplain the inconsistencies. There's a tiny potentiometer on each stepperstick. Adjust them using a non metal screwdriver so that a. The steppermotors are slightly warm to the touch, not making any noise while idle, and making 'musical' nois
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like the wobble of one of the axes when cornering. When the x motion stops and the y motion starts, there's a point at which the carriage stands 'still', or rather transitions from one direction to the next. The deceleration degree determines if this is with a snap, or with a softer ease-out/ease-in motion.
When it snaps into the other direction, any springyness in your carriage will vibra
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imqqmi
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Printing
Could you please post the error in plain text instead of having us go through xml data?
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imqqmi
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Printing
Check if everything is solidly tightened down with no play. Check printbed, hotend etc, bearings, belts. You didn't mention the type of printer or its features. Is the z axis moving during x an y motion? Could be auto bed levelling problem or backlash. Is the printer on a stable surface? Heated pid with calibrated PID?
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imqqmi
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Printing
It's often caused because it's overextruding, maybe combined with the xy jerk setting needs to be increased. The slowdown in the corners could leave some buildup of filament.
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imqqmi
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Printing
You first need to home x and y, but I always use g28 then g29 ( abl grid). I'm still using an older fw though, dated somewhere in 2014. I'll try the latest version soon.
You only need to define a square for ablg, top right and bottom left corner or something similar. The number of probe points are either 2 or 3, which are squared in firmware, so it will probe the 4 corners or 9 points, like the
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Check the heated bed mosfet and see how hot its running. It may be neccesary to replace it with a better one. The irlr7843 would be a good choice for example.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Usually it's heat related. For smaller areas use slow down and/or cooling fan to print better. Also make sure it's not over extruding. Lowering the temperature is also an option. If your slicer supports different temperatures per layer you may want to experiment with that. You can also edit the gcode and insert a lower temp when the thin part starts. If you own a lc display, use the tune menu to
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imqqmi
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Printing
Did you do a g28, then immediately a g29? That should work. For g29 to work it must be homed first and the motors shouldn't have timed out.
So the x and y axes move when g28 but not with g29?
Did you try abl grid?
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Try increasing the temperature, or choosing different ntc setting in firmware. If you have a multimeter with thermocouple you can check if the ntc is giving the correct temperature. If not, you could adapt the temperature sensor table using the readings of the thermo couple.
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imqqmi
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Printing
Just a wild guess, since you're very sparse on details, check the bridging feedrate multiplier, it should be set to 1, maybe yours is at 1.66 or somewhere close. If not you could set it to .6 and see if it's better.
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imqqmi
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Printing
Try commenting out z_probe_repeatabillity_test. I don't think it's used for normal operation.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I've noticed you've set infill overlap to 0% in cura, it should be 15%. If you did the same in slic3r then that's probably causing it. It's the overlap between infill and perimeters. Slic3r can be a bit troublesome to get the perimeters the way you want them. Play with the advanced settings extrusion width to avoid gaps in perimeters.
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imqqmi
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Printing
I can't find the article, but it stated many causes for z axis artifacts. The few that I remember are thermal deformation of the heated bed, if using bang-bang method of heating the temperature swing can cause the pcb to warp in the bang-bang rhythm, moving it up and down. Depending on the time a layer is completed the z banding can change in appearance. Using PID for a more stable temperature an
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imqqmi
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Printing
You can try entering gcode on the manual tab in repetier
M221 S95
Where Sxxx represents the extrusion multiplier in percentage.
I haven't tried it myself but it should work. There will be a delay before the gcode gets executed though.
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imqqmi
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Printing