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Printing issues ...
You can set the firmware to use a maximum pwm to reduce the power output (at least marlin can). I've used a 12V on a 24V 15A psu without issues for some years at 75% pwm.
Just make sure your psu can handle the current. You could start at 25% and see if that works out ok, bump it up if you think your components can handle it. Doubling the voltage will put 4x more power into the bed so 25% should
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imqqmi
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General
Yep thatshould do the trick, and maybe a smoke detector?
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
It depends on the accuracy of the meter. Did you check the meter without resistor, ie short the test leads? The resistance measured shorted must be subtracted from the measurement of the bed.
If the resistance is correct then 260W sounds about right for 24V and 2.2 ohm. If you have a ammeter clamp you can meadure the actual current. The calculated current is at room temperature, the current drop
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Could it be retraction problems or filament slipping or extruder missing steps?
Depending on slicer settings the perimeter is printed first, then infill, then retraction, z moves, then petimeters again. The retraction could loosd steps and stop extruding until infill is reached, making it appear the outer shell isn't printed. Check if the printer is going through the motions of printing the miss
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imqqmi
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Printing
Could you measure the printed and model height, do they match? It looks as though the z axis missed steps or the driver overheated, binding etc.
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imqqmi
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General
I'd try to measure the resistance and calculate what current and wattage will result in connecting it to 24V and see if the PSU will be able to handle it. If not, you can use a PWM maximum limit to limit the used power into the bed.
ie
Current:
I = U/R (where I is current, U is voltage and R is Ohms of the bed)
Power:
P = I^2R
or
P = UI
So if you measure the bed to be 3 ohms:
I = 24/3 = 8A
P
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I think Marlin defaults to normally closed end stops, so when you connect your end stops with the nornally open terminal it will show the endstop is triggered. This is done so that it will also trigger if the endstop plug comes loose or a wire breaks. You can either change the endstop or change the firmware to invert the triggering.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I've recently upgraded my corexy 3D printer to a 350x350x6mm tooling plate bed. I've put a Keenovo 300x300mm 750W 230V silicone heater pad on it. I've ordered it with their recommended SSR. It was very easy to do. I drilled 4 mounting holes and placed it in the 3D printer frame. The SSR doesn't get hot, so it appears to handle the load easily. keenovo supplies instructions on connecting it to you
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imqqmi
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General
I can't hear the difference with my tablet. Probably the automatic gain control on the phone afjusting to the sound level produced.
QuoteOhmarinus
Quoteobelisk79
I'd love to see(hear) the before and after
Okay, so I have made a video with before and after. Sadly somehow my video editing software cannot use the video files from my phone (Pocophone F1) so I have uploaded two videos with before an
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imqqmi
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General
Not always, when the motion is at 45 degrees, only one stepper is used. I think rather corexy is weaker as it needs to move two axes with one stepper at 45 degrees angle movements.
Also, holding torque becomes important when one motor needs to stay put while the other moves. Some drivers can decrease the current when motion has stopped, this could be a problem if one motor pulls the other out of
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imqqmi
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General
I'd design an x carriage with removable pkates so you can build one with either system and mount whatever is needed. You can then also add a plate with a laser diode or dremel attachment.
It also depends on the type of flexible filament. Tpc flex is stiff enough to be used (at least in 3mm form) but if the filament is more compressable it could fold back upon itself in the cold end drive and re
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imqqmi
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General
Did you accidentally turn on wiping after retraction or some similar function in the slicer?
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imqqmi
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Printing
Did you wire the endstep shorting out 5V to ground? That would cause a reset on the arduino (and may cause damage). Check the position of the end stop position on the connector. Check the board pinouts and orientation.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
It would appear that little to no filament is printed when the surface of the feature is small. I'd look at retraction settings, maybe the value is too high. Should be about 1mm for a direct drive or 4-6mm for a bowden setup. I'd also tweak the hot end temperature, lower or higher to see if that helps. Do you use a cooling fan?
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imqqmi
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Printing
Did you try feeding filament manually through the nozzle to see if it runs smoothly and doesn't take too much force to push it through? Did you check the nozzle temperature with an external thermocouple that's proven to be within about 2 degrees C accurate? Put it into the hot end all the way down.
If you use a Bowden the tube adds significant amount of springiness (though 1.75mm maybe less so t
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imqqmi
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Printing
Ok, it's just to rule out the basics since you didn't tell us (everything) what you tried/checked already . So without feeding filament into the nozzle it extrudes the right amount, and with it feeding through the nozzle (under pressure) it will be 10% short?
I love a mystery, so thanks for sharing
Did you check motor current? Replace the stepstick? Check voltage stability under load? Replace t
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imqqmi
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Printing
Yeah, most forms use an anti bot or forgery token. It is unique for every post. If you send it twice it'll trip the bot warning.
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imqqmi
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General
Maybe the nozzle is partially blocked? Did you try heating up the hotend while pulling the filament out before it reaches the temperature? This will pull out all the filament including particles that may have collected in there. If you don't use your 3D printer for longer periods, it may collect dust on the filament spool and draw it into the nozzle. I had something similar with older filament. A
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imqqmi
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Printing
I'm not sure I've understood the problem but maybe you can start the motion before the ink is activated so that the print head is up to speed before printing. Then activate printing and when done add extra motion without printing to decellerate. So use a lead in and a lead out, if you've got the space to do so.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I agree with digital dentist, seems to be an up/down motion inconsistency. The thing is to rule out what's causing it.
Do you have a dial indicator? You could try heating the bed with the dial indicator mounted on something not on the 3D printer and see if it moves up or down. Bang/bang can cause some beds to warp. It would have to be in sync with layer times somehow, I would think the chance of
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imqqmi
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Printing
Your 3D printer must be very large. Maybe the big bang didn't happen, the entire universe is all 3D printed with your printer
I'll see myself out.
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imqqmi
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Printing
Yes that's z wobble, try putting a ruler next to your printed part, is the spacing 2mm (or the pitch of the lead screw)?
The dimension doesn't change, it's just shifted from one layer to the next. It's cyclic every rotation of the lead screw.
Even a microscopic amount will show up in your prints. If you look at a corner you may not even see the wobble on the edge but the way light catches on t
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imqqmi
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Printing
I had the same on numerous occasions with PVA glue or varnish and nylon. I now get the same with the BuildTak surface and ABS. What I do is put the plate on a table that's against a wall, then put the edge of the plate against the wall so it won't move when lateral force is applied. I use a sharpened putty knife, like really sharp with a whet stone and polishing compound, the same way you sharpen
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imqqmi
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Printing
Thanks for the comments. I've since moved on to glass core belts, those don't slip and can bend around smaller radiusses. The PU steel belts really need bigger radius pulleys. A smaller radius will pinch the belt teeth, resulting in smaller tooth spacing, making them slip over the teeth of the pulleys.
I've paid special care as per your instructions so that the right segments are parallel, mayb
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imqqmi
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CoreXY Machines
Maybe to save some space, but I think I'm not going to do it, I've got plenty of space. The C250 aluminium tooling plates have arrived, looks good! I've ordered enough for 4 bed plates, though the rest I'm probably going to use to mill out the bed brackets, properly this time. I've milled out 350x350mm bed plate and drilled countersink holes. The plate is quite heavy, the z axis stepper motor had
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imqqmi
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CoreXY Machines
A small update: I've made an enclosure for it using acrylic plates and aluminium angle profiles. The volume of the box is quite large but overall I like it. I still need to plug some holes though.
It has resided on my bench top for a quite a while and got in the way of other projects. I had to find its semi permanent home for it. I decided to put some coaster wheels under it. The 2020 frame qui
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imqqmi
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CoreXY Machines
If it's a prusa i3 clone the x idler is held by a screw into a nut that draws back the idler to put tension on the belt. Is the problem that this screw comes undone? Replace the nut with a nyloc nut. Any nut that's subject to vibration and should not come undone or move by itself should be replaced by a nyloc nut. The Z rods should not be replaced with a nyloc nut as it needs to move the x axis u
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imqqmi
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Printing
To add to the excellent advice given, the driving voltage needs to be sufficiently high to get the rated torque. It should be around 2.5 to 10x the rated steppermotor voltage. It's a balance between torque and running the motors cool enough.
When I upgraded from a ramps with A4988 stepsticks at 12V to a duet with tmc2660 at 24V I got much more torque and the steppers ran 3-4x faster before stall
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imqqmi
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General
Some things to check:
- motor current too low or too high
- intermittent break in the cable
- nozzle catching extruded plastic raising up
- something catching in the carriage
- stepstick overheating
- sudden drop in supply voltage
- max. Velocity, acceleration and/or jerk setting too high
- check what firmware version is used and see if there are known issues
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imqqmi
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Printing
Can you confirm the hotend does make the actual motions? Or is the extruded filament taking a shortcut? Is the filament somehow constrained when the back is about to be printed? Is there a cooling fan not reaching some parts while being very strong on others? Is there an intermittent break in the hotend power lead?
Is it retracting on that corner? Are yoh using some kind of pressure advance compe
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imqqmi
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Printing