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Printing issues ...
It could be a short from something else too, maybe you need to replace the board or at least check everything that's connected. Use an amp clamp to measure the current on the input, then add all the sensors and other devices back to the board until you see a big jump in current usage.
Was the fuse also powering the heated bed? If not, it should never have happened as stepper motors really don't
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imqqmi
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Printing
Try to eliminate as many factors as you can. Try a dry run to rule out filament catching. Just leave out the filament, or if the slicer supports a dry run, try that.
Lower the maximum velocity, acceleration and jerk settings on the printer by setting it on the display or using gcode.
Monitor the temperature of the stepsticks, monitor the voltage. Look for spikes, dips, ripple etc.
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imqqmi
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Printing
Agreed, I'd just use the multiplier in the slicer for that.
I'm not familiar with creality hardware, but see if you can adjust the motor current. Make sure the z axis doesn't bind and runs very smoothly.
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imqqmi
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Printing
You can check with the probe connected what happens to the voltage across it. Does it change? It may well be the input has gone bad or that your second probe has a problem, ie it may need a higher voltage.
I recently upgraded to a duet 2 wifi and works well. It's easy to setup. By powering it with 24V psu has made my stepper motors quite a bit faster too, but you'll need to take care that fan o
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imqqmi
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Printing
If it's for cnc /subtractive manufacturing and if good emc performance is important I'd get 4 wire cable with shielding and made for using in a drag chain. Like this one:
ÖLFLEX® CHAIN 809 CY 4 G 0.75
I use this for my cnc router, with 3A motor current.
For my 3d printer i'm now using 0.75mm^2 loudspeaker cable, since the stepper motors remain stationary.
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imqqmi
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General
What I did for mating a motor with gear, with another gear is to make slots for the motor mount so that you've got some amount of adjustment available. Try finding models of 3D printed gears and see how others have done this. It can be quite challenging to come up with a tooth profile yourself and what it takes for teeth to mesh properly.
3D printed gears in plastic generally need larger dimensi
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imqqmi
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General
Hehehe, I can't blame you, it worked for me but it's not for everyone It's better to get a bed that's flat to begin with but it can be expensive.
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imqqmi
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General
It's just a c clamp. I measured using a dial indicator and found that it was warped on one side. I used two 2040 extrusions as bed support so it was strong enough to clamp on that and the side/middle of the bed. The rise was clamped down and bowed against the rise. Make sure not to over do it. After (removing the clamp) that the dial indicator gave better measurements.
A clamp like this:
I h
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imqqmi
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General
The auto bed leveling is only trying to level the bed by rotation, it's not trying to compensate for uneveness. So a warped bed will remain warped but it's treated as square to the axes on average.
The aluminium will expand due to heating it up and contract when cooling down. This can be as much as 1mm in both directions for 200mm length of aluminium and a delta T of around 100 degrees. If the
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imqqmi
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General
That's correct. If the eeprom is enabled, the configuration.h settings that are also stored in the eeprom are ignored until you reset the eeprom.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
A warp deviation of more than 0.15mm will make it really hard to get a first layer across the bed, even at a first layer height of 0.3mm regardless if you use auto bed levelling. I'd try to first level the bed as best as you can. Also make sure the bed can expand in the x and y plane. If it's fixed it will warp. Also make sure consecutive probing values are consistent.
I've used shims to level m
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imqqmi
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General
Yeah it should heat quicker than that. Is the hot end heater led turned on or blinking when it's more than 10 degrees from the set point? If it's blinking, it's not using the full power of the power supply to heat up to within 10 degrees of the set point.
Did you save the pid settings after autotuning?
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
It would help if you provide some sharp in focus images where the layers can be seen. This could happen with under extrusion or when the nozzle is blocked or the filament is slipping, extruder motor is skipping steps. It can also happen when printing too fast and the infill doesn't get the chance to adhere to the perimeters and collapses.
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imqqmi
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Printing
I'm not sure if it was mentioned before but compiler errors usually can be solved by using the latest version of the arduino development environment, or if you use older firmware, a version of the same period.
If this doesn't help, google the error you're getting or post it here. You don't need programming skills to configure the firmware. Just read the instructions in the config file. Start wit
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imqqmi
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm not sure the problem was there before your modifications. What I ran into with a cnc router was that the eccentric nuts were not formed well, it wasn't eccentric enough for many of the nuts so it would not be tight enough or too tight in some cases.
I ordered some proper ones and that resolved it for me.
As for tightness, the purpose of the 2020 slot and wheel system is to constrain movemen
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imqqmi
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Mechanics
Sounds like the stepper motor driver has some issues with low speed. At some point at a certain speed changes mode and it's gone. Does it change with stealhmode on/off? Is the power supply stable? If you've got an oscilloscope try determining the voltage ripple.
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imqqmi
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General
Come to think of it, although the pictures you've posted are very low res but if I'm not mistaken the first layer seems good. Do you print the first layer at a lower velocity? You could try slicing the model with that speed and see if things improve?
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imqqmi
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Printing
The jerky motion is the problem, if it's not smooth printing arcs then it will blob due to back pressure. It could be that the gcode volume is too much for the serial port to handle. See if you can raise the baud rate or limit the sliced detail. Also check the jerk setting. If it's set too low it may stop at the end of every g1/g0 command.
I can't imagine sending gcode to the 3D printer is that t
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imqqmi
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Printing
It looks a bit like what I got with the duet (which has a tmc2660). When the current was set too high the machine was loud and the steps were a bit jerky. When I lowered the current the smoothness improved. If 0.6mm is close to what a full step is, then it could be the problem.
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imqqmi
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General
I also suspect it's the extruder slipping or a half blocked nozzle, motor skipping steps, filament being blocked, constricted, entangled and/or moisture in the filament, bubbles in the filament or inconsistent diameter. Maybe the hobbed bolt is crammed full of plastic and losing grip. Try swapping out the stepstick.
And seeing the bottom of the print there's quite a bit of backlash/compliance ju
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imqqmi
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Printing
Good to hear it's resolved! Yeah it should've been documented somewhere where you'd expect it.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
I had a similar if not the same issue with an old marlin 1.0 installation that I upgraded to 1.1.9. Bed PID would heat up to the set temperature and when the hotend kicked in, the heater for the bed turned off and got a failure.
I asked about this in the marlin github issue tracker. The solution is to reset the eeprom:
Use M502 (reset firmware to factory default) followed by M500 (store eeprom)
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Did you try adjust motor current? I don't know what the default microstepping is but you may need to set that as well. Did you configure it using spi? This chip doesn't appear to have external pins to set the stepping mode like A4988.
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imqqmi
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General
+1 Supraguys story, mine is about the same though my i3 clone kit was 450 euros. I then spend more than double that to improve it, and failed in the end. I've now built a self designed and built printer based on corexy. I've recently finished the enclosure and added led lighting and two 24V fans for part cooling off the x carriage.
I don't know what I've spent on the corexy version, I think it
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imqqmi
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General
Could it be the microcontroller received a higher than normal voltage? That could mess up flash memory.
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
It sounds like the behavior of a printer that has stepper motor drivers that detect skipped steps. The firmware is notified and it will home the axes to resume the print afterwards. Most Trinamic drivers are capable of this.
I can't think of a failure more that will allow the printer continue printing after homing or hitting end stops. That doesn't mean there isn't one though. My Korean isn't th
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imqqmi
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Printing
The drop in twist style nuts damage the extrusions as the surface is small and ribbed. The wider ones that can only be inserted from the ends don't fit in regular slots (at least for the 2020 series), they only fit in the beveled openbuilds version to allow a wheel to run in the slot bevels. My favorite by far is the springloaded ball one. They can be inserted directly into the slot (needs some e
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imqqmi
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Reprappers
Is the x stepper motor driver overheating? Try a fan or lowering the current if it's overheating. If you can't keep your finger on the chip or heatsink, it's too hot (temperature higher than 60 degrees C). A temp gun readout area could be too large, misreading the temperature on those tiny chips.
Is the current too low? Try increasing the motor current.
Also check if it skips steps at the highe
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imqqmi
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Printing
Try the prusa mk3 settings for slic3r (with the prusa edition of slic3r), then recalibrate the flow rate.
Start with slower velocities, then when everything looks ok bump up the speed if necessary and see how far you can push things to find the optimum speed vs quality for you.
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imqqmi
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Printing
On the other hand, when the heated bed is heated up, the current draw drops due to increased resistance at higher temperatures. I've measured my 24V bed at 8A when cool, and drops off to 5A when almost at the set temperature (before PID kicks in, lowering the current draw on purpose). If you open up the psu you can check if there's more than one 12V output on the psu and split the bed and other p
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imqqmi
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Printing