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Printing issues ...
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Update. I am finding that even though the wood that is used is an MDF laminate, it is still subject to moisture expansion / contraction. I am noticing this in the z-axis homing. It seems that every session, I am having to readjust my z axis home to get a good starting bottom layer. I don't know if it is the wood expanding / shrinking or other factors but it does get to be a tad distracting. I canby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
@dennmat - thanks for the compliment. I can guarantee you that I am having all sorts of fun with this project that keeps me off the TV......by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
@dennmat - here is a pic of the mosfet on the heatsink - dead bug style. This is mounted under the RUMBA board so that airflow from the fan that cools the stepper drivers makes it way to the heatsink and help out cooling. I can now run the heatbed in true PID mode and as I type this away, I have two yellow flashing lights being real happy at setpoint (bed / nozzle).by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Here is a picture of the Koch tealight. It is printed using Slic3r in spiral vase mode, 0.4 mm nozzle, 30mm/sec speed, 195 deg C, Inland Gold PLA 1.75 mm (MicroCenter).by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Attached is the circuit diagram of my heat bed relay eliminator using the IRF4905 mosfet. No circuit board was used just attached resistor to leads, soldered on wires and wire tied to the heatsink for support (dead bug assembly). Not pretty but real functional. When the HB-OUT terminal is taken to ground by the FET on the RUMBA board, the mosfet starts conducting. Two other items: 1) this devby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
I am trying the hardest thing yet I have had the printer do. I am doing a Koch patterned tealight off of Thingiverse ( ) and it the spiral vase mode on Slic3r. Since the perimeter is one thickness wide, this will show up any deficiencies in the printer.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Heatbed relay questions - 10 years ago
Running my heat bed (14 volts, 32 amps) using just an IRF4905 mosfet and a small heatsink from a celeron processor in PID mode. Barely gets warm.by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
QuoteRRuser How is the flex/stiffness of this larger 12" frame? The biggest issue with flex that I have seen has been with the two cross pieces that join the Y axis rails together on each end. They are made out of wood and have bending issues when the stepper executes fast moves on the Y axis. The Z axis does not seem to have any issues that I can see at the moment. As much as one would love oby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Need help choosing fuse - 10 years ago
This appears to be this power supply: The running current is 6.5 amps and starting surge current is 50 amps. A rule of thumb says to fuse at 150% of running load and that is now 10 amps. To handle a starting surge of 50 amps, it may need a delay fuse. Remember, a fuse is not to protect the downstream device, it is to protect upstream of the fuse from a failed downstream device.by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
This is a sweet piece of code: // polyhole by nophead module polyhole(h, d) { n=max(round(2*d),3); cylinder(h=h, r=(d/2)/cos(180/n), $fn=n); } Measured an M5 bolt with the calipers, plugged in the sizes and printed out with no compensation. The bolt went freely in. This will have to go into my code repertoire for when I need to make free holes. I figure if I knock of a few tenths off, maybeby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: calibration cube problems - 10 years ago
+1 on the M8 threaded rod. The movement is 0.8 mm/rev. I am running 32 microstepping on 200 step/rev motors. This works out to 8000 steps / mm. 0.1 mm works out to 800 steps.by itchytweed - Printing
Re: Safest way to split AC line and residual power - 10 years ago
For an E-stop circuit, power removal has to be immediate, no gradual discharge. So, the E-stops have to act on the output of the PSU's. Ideally, the best place for the E-stops would be to disconnect the power feeds between the motors/steppers and their drivers. One feed, two PSU's. One cable coming in. Split into two and fed to two separate fuse blocks with line and neutral fused. One fuse blocby itchytweed - General
Re: Filament drying technique - 10 years ago
Nylon can sponge up moisture big time. PLA is just as notorious. I have a 25 gallon storage tub that has a sealed lid on it that I keep my filaments in. Inside is an open container of silica gel granules (about 1/2 kilo), and a humidity gauge. It consistently stays at about 25% inside. Since doing that, my moisture issues have subsided immensely.by itchytweed - General
Re: Slicer closing/crashing - 10 years ago
Oooohhhhh......religious flame war!!!! Let me get the popcorn and pop.... Cross platform development between linux and windows has NEVER played well in the sandbox, unless you do a "Hello, World" program. 'nuf said. I wonder if this memory leak appears only in windows or if in linux as well. I can download the latest source from git and try it on my big linux box and watch for memory leaks, asby itchytweed - Slic3r
Re: Attaching an electric meter to the printer? - 10 years ago
if you want to measure everything, best way to measure the line coming in. One of the best consumer devices to do this: Kill-A-Watt.by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
I was running into the issue of "fat corners". If I try to print a sharp cornered cube, the corners would bulge out from excess plastic caused by pressure delay in the hot end. I have found that by rounding the corners of the cube with a 0.8 mm radius, the transition in axes is rounded enough to get rid of the bump and leave clean corners. This, I am sure is system dependent so it will take somby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Consequence of shorting two pins on a Driver Board while adjusting - 10 years ago
I use a ceramic tipped diddlestick to adjust the pots. Meter ground is attached to circuit ground by fleaclips and the other probe tip rides the pot wiper.by itchytweed - General
Re: Prusa I3 first "print" - what am I doing wrong? - 10 years ago
The sticking out corners are cause by printing a 90 degree turn that requires infinite decel rate and infinite accel rate in the cross direction. the head stops, wiggles a bit, and the extra gets deposited causing the bulge. Dirty trick time - round off your corners just enough to work against inertia and you can get pretty sharp corners. Yes, it's cheating the system but it does work. But remembby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
I was running a print resolution test when I found out not all of it printed out. What it ended up is that Slic3r was not processing the areas. Apparently, this "feature" is going to be a limiting factor in the accuracy of prints. Now to build another calibration block to find out what Slic3r's limits are and go from there. I am going to have to possibly figure out a workaround, if possible, so Iby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Setting stepper voltage - double pots? - 10 years ago
I will take a stab at this. Since I can't see the chip number, it looks like the second pot is used to vary the PWM clock frequency. I deal with this to kill off resonances in motors so they don't sing on VFD's in quiet environments. It may have its purpose here to do that here. The pix says "...to improve accuracy..." but I will step out on this ledge that our movement systems are far more accurby itchytweed - General
Re: Heatsink for the FETs - 10 years ago
Even a small fan blowing over the device will help as well.by itchytweed - RAMPS Electronics
Re: Print Extrusion Problem - 10 years ago
Nice picture. Had wrestled with this issue in the very near past. Ended up being a combination of several things for my edition of this problem: 1) Nozzle to platen gap was increasing when the cruft started happening (leveled platen to nozzle all over the bed after both had soaked at operating temp for 1/2 hr at a tight 0.1 mm); 2) heat bed was coming on and snarfing the power supply just enoughby itchytweed - Printing
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
QuoteRRuser Is this an all-V-slot design? Also, I have seen several people not use the relay; is there not a mosfet heater driver as a standard part somewhere? 1) All guide rails on the axes are 20mm X 20mm V-Slot. 2) The heatbed can easily draw 35 amps running. The RUMBA board that I have has the PSMN7R0-60YS mosfet as the heatbed device. The unit is rated at 60 amps and 117 watts dissipatioby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: WD-11 vacuum tube base - 10 years ago
Good job! And....real radios glow in the dark and keep you warm and cozy at night.by itchytweed - Look what I made!
Re: Negative vibes - 10 years ago
To the OP - very true words. As much as we all want everything to be cookie cutter setup and run, every kit / build / owner is a one off and has to be treated as such. There may be generic solutions available for every problem but they have to be considered a starting point. I myself am relatively new to 3D printing but I have years of industrial automation experience behind me to draw on. To beby itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Congrats to Gina Häußge and the OctoPrint/OctoPi team. Have my RPi attached to the printer. This is sweet and the setup with the OctoPi image was easy.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Prusa i3 Hephestos+ printbed issue - 10 years ago
Measure the resistance of the heatbed heater and discuss it with Ohm...his law will help you out. My bed is .42 ohms and at 14.2 volts eats up about 34 amps!!! I am feeding the bed on its own 50 amp DC supply and running the rest on its own supply. I can run the whole printer off of the 50 amp supply but the current draw on the bed causes the rest to stutter and it can be seen in the prints.by itchytweed - Printing
Re: Curiosity about squaring various i3 y-frames to the z frame. - 10 years ago
When I built my I3V, I had my square out all the time. What helped was having a large FLAT area to build it and some weights to keep it flat when I did the tightenings. As much as the engineer in me would want the unit to cut sharp edge 90 degree turns when printing, I have to accept that this unit cost me 3 figures and not in the 5-6 figure range. The squareness of the frame ensures smooth, nonbby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Are Leadscrews Worth it for prusa i3 or m8 Rods? - 10 years ago
On my I3V 12", I have the GT2 belts running x-y axes and the M5-0.8 threaded rods on the z axis. The rods have been lubed with Tri-Flow and are about as straight as they are going to be. Each z axis stepper has it's own driver, which helps immensely and I have had no tracking issues at all. The belts cause resonance issues in the prints whenever there is a start/stop/direction transition and it iby itchytweed - Reprappers
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Since the incident with the last thermistor and its fail, I decided to go on a hunt for replacements. So, I hit up my two competing parts vendors, since I don't have a Fry's Electronics here (pining for Fountain Valley), DigiKey and Mouser. Digikey 495-2125-ND / EPCOS B57540G0104F000 100k/1% B25/B85=4066K Mouser ***NOT STOCKED*** I found a spreadsheet on Thingiverse that does the calculationsby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants