Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Re: How do I increase accuracy with prusa i3v help requested.. - 10 years ago
Accuracy on a 0.3 head is +/- 0.15 mm, unless you are able to extrude reliably at a value less than that. Most standard I3's are at 80/80/4000 with X/Y stepping at .0125 mm/step and Z stepping at 0.00025 mm/step. Unless you can reliably have an extrusion process that results in a less than 0.3 mm print out, that is the limit - 0.3mm. Machine accuracy is not to worry about since the machine caby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Using ramps with bigger stepper drivers? - 10 years ago
I realize that these may be outside of the hobbyist's wallet but here is something that can be attached to the RAMPS signals output and run the printers. Now... no slobbering over a max microstepping of 51200 steps / rev ;-)by itchytweed - General
Re: Will this MOSFET be enough to supply Hotend - 10 years ago
The NTE stuff is probably not stocked in the store. For this stuff, you have to use a low gate drive device to ensure that it is hard on and not in its middle range and playing resistor. This is why PWM is great for heat regulation as the FET is either hard on on hard off and dissipates the least amount of heat possible. If you have two extruder drivers and are just using one, recompile the RAMby itchytweed - General
Re: PLA in yellow, magenta, cyan? - 10 years ago
Hmmm....CMYK. There is a group out of Europe somewhere that is making a "diamond" hot end that takes three Hexagon's and puts them out at one point. Multi-color printing but it would have some lag in it. Very interesting...by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Two items: 1) Elmer's Washable School Glue Stick is my new best friend (the purple one) and a single blade scraper for cleanup. 2) Since I had a devil of a time finding a copy of Marlin/Configuration.h to work from for this printer, I am attaching it as a starting point for the community. Followup on the z-axis - I replaced the vinyl tubing couplers. I went to HomeDepot and purchased the follby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Just had an interesting failure dialing in the printing. I got a MINTEMP fault. Location of failure was that the thermistor wire broke right where it was soldered to the wire. That issue is now fixed so back to getting this working.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Why does my kit provide extruder fan wiring extension as a 2 pin, if the fan has 3 pins - 10 years ago
Quotetadawson The third wire is a tachometer signal coming back from the fan, used by motherboards to sense speed, so they can hit a given airflow. Motor is only on red/black, and all speed control is done on those same leads. - Tim +1 on this. The pulse signal on the third wire is to make sure that the fan is turning on a computer motherboard. Not needed here so can be ignored.by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
A shout out to Triffid Hunter and his calibration guide. Good going on it.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Quoteo_lampe OK, Im glad to hear that. If it is a solid state Relais, in fact it is a semiconductor already. If it is a mechanical relais, be aware, that they tend to "stick" when they actually should switch "open". I hope you`re using Marlin with the "thermal runaway" option enabled... Olaf There are SSR's in the necessary ratings that would work, providing that they can respond quickly and dby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Slic3r vs Cura - retraction calibration? - 10 years ago
I would think that the strings are being caused by pulling of hot material out the print hole. To that effect, you would want to shear off at 90 degrees at a high rate of motion to snap the feed rather than pull it out. If up and then out, that would offer a chance of material pulling out, yielding the strings. YMMV with the settings.by itchytweed - Printing
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
No RAMPS board, using RUMBA board. There is an interposing mechanical relay between the RUMBA and the heat bed doing the heavy lifting. If this was through the RUMBA, I am quite sure that it would be a crispy critter. I may go so far as to ditch the relay and put on an external MOSFET transistor to do the heavy switching but so far it does not seem to be needing it.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
I have it printing in PLA. Not the best print but good for a first try on an unknown file.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Word to the wise... the heated bed on this beast draws 34 amps at 14.2 volts. Luckily, I have a 50 amp supply. Finished up making the wiring neat and some wire tie manufacturer is rubbing their hands just a bit more...by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech z axis problem - 10 years ago
Polite commentary here. I have had the pin jumpers be the culprit many times before if the spring is corroded or not tight enough against the pin.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
The monstah......It Lives!!!!! (with apologies to Dr. Frankenstein) Film at 11.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Quotelokiwizz Quoteitchytweed Note to forum: I am not a bot. Your algorithms are stereotypical fail. Yes, I to feel your pain. Only seems to happen when i try to post from my phone though Look forward to your build log Chris The post was from my phone over 4G-LTE. This is over wy-fy. ...no message.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
Note to forum: I am not a bot. Your algorithms are stereotypical fail.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
The box survived intact. One side was crushed a tad but was inconsequential. MakerFarm needs to hold a Master's Class with Amazon, and a few others, on how to properly pack a box for shipping. Everything arrived just fine. A well appreciated touch was to open the box and see first thing, on top of the copious amount of the pink packing peanuts, the shipping list, face up, and not manhandled. Thisby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech z axis problem - 10 years ago
Quotevhoward1122 I want to thank everyone who responded to help me. It was not a faulty motor or stepper driver. It was a faulty ramps 1.4 board. I happened to be collecting items for another project and have another ramps board along with more stepper drivers. I installed the other ramps board and made sure all the settings were correct. Did another test cube print. Let me say that the improvemeby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech z axis problem - 10 years ago
Quotevhoward1122 Quoteitchytweed It is entirely possible that you have a bad motor. I have not been a fan of putting two steppers on one driver. When wired in parallel, the driver has to supply the sum current of both steppers. So, if the steppers are nameplated at 1.2 amps, the stepper has to deliver 2.4 amps to supply the demand providing the steppers are the same electrical construction. In seby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech z axis problem - 10 years ago
It is entirely possible that you have a bad motor. I have not been a fan of putting two steppers on one driver. When wired in parallel, the driver has to supply the sum current of both steppers. So, if the steppers are nameplated at 1.2 amps, the stepper has to deliver 2.4 amps to supply the demand providing the steppers are the same electrical construction. In series, the current will be the samby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
The box is at the UPS station. Now to pick it up tomorrow and see what kind of shipping damage it has sustained.by itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: 2 quick questions... - 10 years ago
QuoteDonaldJ Have you tried using a multimeter? +1 on the multimeter testing as well. On the two wire plug, the narrow spade is the hot side and the wider blade is neutral. I would ditch that two wire cord and get a three wire cord from a hardware store and used the L, N, and GND terminals. Plus, if you are hooking up a computer to talk to this as well, put both the RepRap and the computer fromby itchytweed - General
Re: 2 quick questions... - 10 years ago
Quotetadawson Typical color codes are black - line, white - neutral and green - ground (in the US at least) and brown - line, blue - neutral, green - ground internationally. I can't say that I have ever seen purple - any chance it's just a funky brown? In any case, multi voltage power supplies these days are not terribly picky about line/neutral reversal, since they will be getting two hot legsby itchytweed - General
Re: terminal got burnt - 10 years ago
Quotesarf2k4 Let's say I'm running my bed at 110'c with 270'c extruder, how much amp would that be pulled? I am using geeetech prusa i3 and the pid thingy should be default values, nothings changed Can't answer question. No usable information. Need two out of the three pieces of info listed: voltage, amps, resistance. If I have volts and resistance, amps is a simple calculation.by itchytweed - Safety & Best Practices
Re: new build and my heat bed is heavy, thin nema 17 looses track of where it is on fast moves - 10 years ago
For those who are interested, torque and sizing equations can be found on pages 102-115 in this document:by itchytweed - General
Re: MakerFarm 12" Prusa I3V - my build, usage, and mods - 10 years ago
One of the more interesting things that I have found is that most small, independent companies/operations with limited resources have efficient online/web ordering processes. MakerFarm fits into this category. The unit was purchased using their website and there were no issues as I went from point A, to B, to C... I have dealt with larger organizations that force me to keep my hair short so I caby itchytweed - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: terminal got burnt - 10 years ago
One can solder the cables directly to the board but there can be no strain on the wire. If there is, that could lead to ripping the copper off of the board and maybe damaging it beyond repair. Quotesarf2k4 Quoteitchytweed Changing the connector to a 30 amp unit will make it more rugged but now the limit becomes what the board construction / traces can handle. Too much current there and the traby itchytweed - Safety & Best Practices
Re: terminal got burnt - 10 years ago
Changing the connector to a 30 amp unit will make it more rugged but now the limit becomes what the board construction / traces can handle. Too much current there and the traces will fuse open. This can help as using the fork style connector with a screw terminal will help with the current carrying.by itchytweed - Safety & Best Practices
Re: terminal got burnt - 10 years ago
I would use flexible wire. Stay away from solid core wire with removable terminal blocks. For a strain relief, put a loose loop in the wire before it goes into the terminal block. The loop will compensate for strain of the cable - its weight and movement. With regards to terminal color, I would not use that as a gauge to current carrying capability. The connector blocks aren't coded that way anby itchytweed - Safety & Best Practices