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Printing issues ...
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Hey fellow rappers,
I have had this problem nowadays.
My print seems to have a bad cornering, look at the picture. The layer that is being laid down tend to lift on the corner.
On the first layer, the corner seems to lift a very little bit. The lifting build up as the layers progress and eventually become a catastrophe.
I've played many parameters from flow to temperature, but it does not help.
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
When I said I did cold pulls, it all actually failed amd always snapped. I finally made a success in doing that and able to extract much dust. But no effect...
The extrusion feels like it's too liquefied. It always sag, but when I decrease the flowrate gradually, it snaps before it has a chance to go upright.
The extrusion is also like unresponsive. Everytime it stops extruding for a moment, e.g
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
It's PLA, both 3mm and 1.75mm.
I've measured them multiple times and they're quite consistent.
I am suspecting the nozzle to be clogged since my home was full of ceramic dust recently. I've tried to unclog it by unplugging filament from the extruder at ~100 deg many, many times but doesn't seem there is any difference.
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
I don't know when this catastrophe started, I just began to realize it when my topmost layer was decorated with gaps. These gaps come from the sags of all of the filament. Near-perimeter infill hasn't sag yet and squished well. (Pic1)
Mine is a Prusa i3 with direct drive extruder and .4 mm nozzle. It wasn't like this before and it happened with same filament, i.e., it's not an issue of inconsist
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
See this visual troubleshooting guide for ultimaker.
I once had this problem, too, and I tightened my belt and voila, it got fixed.
Backlash makes your head shifted a bit on each direction change. Those shift on X and Y combined will likely shift every infill run and make every filament closer to its adjacent filament while farther to its other adjacent filament.
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Looking at your print in a better-angled pictures tells me that your issue and mine are different.
You have a consistent and flat layer throughout the surface. The squish on near the perimeter is normal because of acceleration. The gap is caused by grouping of 2 filaments on each run and thus your nemesis is backlash and it's just it. You only need to tighten your belt or so.
Good luck
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
I've tried with lower temperature down to 170 deg and still not much difference.
I also retried using cura, and I just came to realization that the tighter gap cura offers is only because it uses thin extrusion width, which actually doesn't play any role in this issue because my biggest problem is the sagginess.
Do your print sags much as well?
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Hey, I currently have this issue as well just recently ()
This issue of mine just came up recently, it doesn't appear at all until I did something that I don't know exactly. I'm not even sure that it is because of my fault .
I'm using slic3r and I've already tried to tune up every setting I can find in slic3r :
- Print speed 10~100mm/s
- Acceleration 1000~9000mm/s^2
- Top solid layer 3~5 laye
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
I've tried to print with both diameter set (one by one, of course) and I measured the resulting print. The measurement doesn't differs much, the only difference is that the wall is thicker with 0.4 mm in the setting ( tried it with single walled cube). However, both measurements is a bit off of what it should be, so I still don't know which diameter is more correct. But, still, why must it be so
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi, everyone.
I have this Aurora Z-605 3D printer which I bought from local store. What the manufacturer states about the nozzle diameter is "normally it is 0.4 or 0.5, but we use a customized 0.3." I don't know what they mean by customized, but definitely they are instructing to use 0.3.
For a long time I followed their instruction, everything went well enough until I got myself a vernier calip
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Well that makes a lot of senses. But before I installed tensioners for both axes, the wobble went all way round, spiralling its way up in all direction. After I installed the belt tensioners, the wobble in the X axis diminished but it didn't go the same for Y. Doesn't it seems counter intuitive with the design defect you said? Btw, what do you hold the bearings for Z axis with? The X ends in my p
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
It's true that acrylic doesn't actually qualified for this job due its low strength. But till now I wonder, is the frame really that important? I mean, there are RepRap models that don't even have frame, e.g. and . I am quite sceptical about what kind of quality do these printer print.
Regarding layer height, since I have a 8mm pitch threaded rod with 0.04mm/step, must I have layer height that
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Good day for you all!
I'm currently in a possession of Aurora Z-605 3D Printer of Chinese origin. This is a Prusa i3 model with acrylic frame.
The print condition now is depicted in the attached photos.
- Lone cylindrical tower :
This single-walled print clearly resembles a combination of Z wobble and (some kind of) Z banding.
- Square tower :
This is also single-walled. The side to the left s
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Vashikovich
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Printing
QuoteJamesK
Ah, looks like the Melzi has the micro-step signals wired up by default, so it's less likely that your problem is anything to do with that.
I've tried exchanging the X motor with the Y motor, so the motor that usually drives the bed now drives the extruder.
Trying to move the extruder with several different speeds bears vibration that is far softer than using the previous motor, alth
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
Sorry, forgot to mention my thingies~
This is a Prusa i3 model (most likely, i don't recognize other models, hehe). The controller is of Melzi and by default is embedded with Marlin firmware.
Also, I am in no possession of any AVR downloader right now, so I can't change the firmware.
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Vashikovich
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Printing
I'm sorry, but I'm really new to 3D printing and haven't know really much about it.
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Check motor current- set too high can increase vibration. What size motor?
I've experimented with the motor current, but the vibration cannot be minimized by that.
Well, not sure what size this is for I have no comparison. 17, maybe? I've attached the picture of it instead. The filament
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Vashikovich
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Printing
Hi guys,
For days I was using this DIY Prusa i3 3D printer without calibration, it beared no physical problem apart from bad printing quality.
However, when I then began to calibrate the printer, problems started to appear, and one of the most signifant (annoying, actually) is this mechanical resonance.
Before I calibrated it, the belt is quite loose that it have significant backlash. The curre
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
QuoteVDX
... does it loose steps?
Bad vibration is mostly connected to stalling (loosing steps) or coarse microstepping/halfstepping.
Set finer microstepping for smaller steps, so it won't vibrate so much ... and eventually rise the motor current, if it's stalling ...
How to know whether it lose steps or not?
I've experimented in commanding the motor to move at constant speed, both fast and s
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
It's been two weeks since I have my hands on this DIY 3D printer based on Prusa i3 design and Melzi controller.
Right after I assembled the kit, I used it to 3D print right away and beared results that was, you guessed it, pretty bad: a lot of curled print surface and a nice loud musical sound like in sci-fi movies. The first thing I calibrated was the railing mechanics. I straightened everythin
by
Vashikovich
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Printing
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