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Printing issues ...
Quoteav8r1
So why do my end stop mounts prevent the various parts of the printer from depressing the microswitch?
It's a problem several of us have had. You can try filing the endstop mount down a little, or attaching the switch at an angle to the endstop. Here is a hacked up replacement I did for the Z end stop: .
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteiamquestar
For my ending code, I have the X home and Y move the bed all the way forward, but first I raise the Z by 20 mm (assuming it's not too high of a print, and I'll have the room) This is the ending script code I use:
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 Z20 ; lift 20 mm
G90 ; absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y190 F4800
M84 ; disable motors
--A
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotezylantha
Quoteanimoose
Hi, can anyone tell me if the motor and endstop connectors on the SBASE are physically and electrically the same as those on a RAMPS 1.4? That is, can i just unplug the cables from my RAMPS, plug them into the MKS SBASE and have it work? Or will I need to put different connectors or reorder the pins on the existing cables?
While they are electrically equivalent, physi
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animoose
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Controllers
Hi, can anyone tell me if the motor and endstop connectors on the SBASE are physically and electrically the same as those on a RAMPS 1.4? That is, can i just unplug the cables from my RAMPS, plug them into the MKS SBASE and have it work? Or will I need to put different connectors or reorder the pins on the existing cables?
(This is using endstops like these ones: , and motors like these ones: )
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animoose
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Controllers
Quotemsaeger
Quotetherippa
Hey guys,
Long time since I logged in here, two things:
1. Is anyone thinking of getting the new Folgertech FT-5 CoreXY-style printer?
2. First print in about two months, not bad considering the filament definitely has some moisture in it...
I think if I get another machine I will build it from scratch using someone elses plan like the cbot or the smartrap core. I
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
I got a small sample from filabits and printed a few test pieces with it. It has a nice appearance and printed very precisely. I didn't do much to evaluate it mechanically (and the site you linked to suggests this is what it's good for), though I did use it for a couple of links in a drag chain. Page 21 of my has a few examples.
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animoose
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General
Quotetjnamtiw
QuoteWilberMaker
Is there any magic trick to getting the filament to stick to the bed? I'm pretty sure it is level. Might have a question about the zero height of Z. I have the tip almost touching the glass. What else might I check?
''Might have a question about the zero height of Z" >>> This is the PRIMARY insurance for the best chance of bed adhesion. You just can't be
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteWilberMaker
Is there any magic trick to getting the filament to stick to the bed? I'm pretty sure it is level. Might have a question about the zero height of Z. I have the tip almost touching the glass. What else might I check?
You might just have to experiment with different bed and nozzle temperatures. For PLA and many other things, blue painters tape works well, and if even that is not e
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMKSA
I went through quite some pages here and the "building instructions".
I have one question. Is Folgertech a sponsor of this forum ?
Thanks
They are not an official sponsor. The forum thread was started by someone from Folger, but he has not been involved since the very early posts on it, and I think no longer works there.
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
That's a nice trick. I've had some much trouble with this that I've been giving up and buying ready made studs like this one: .
by
animoose
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Reprappers
Check in case the gear on the extruder is slipping. Sometimes the grub screws can work loose.
Check whether the V-grooved bearing in the extruder is rotating freely. These are quite cheap bearings and can wear out.
Check whether the nozzle is blocked (partly in your case as some filament is getting through). This is a bit harder to see directly, but maybe you can drive some filament through by ha
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
It seems to be hard to get hold of 32 bit controllers right now:
Azteeg X5 - out of stock at panucatt, matter hackers and ultibots.
Duet 0.8.5 - out of stock at filastruder and think3dprint3d.
RADDS - out of stock at reprap.me and makerfarm.
Smoothieboard - available
AZSMZ - available
Is there some reason for this, like component availability or because a new generation of boards is about to hit
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animoose
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General
Quotemarc2912
I'd like to run an informal poll here. I wish the forum had an easy way to run a poll within a thread... Are you running a bed leveling system and if so which?
Thanks
Not running a bed levelling system. I slightly changed to bed adjustment screws to make them easier to adjust and added a bolt to the X motor carrier to adjust the Z height. Happy with this.
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts
I have the E3d V6 Lite installed and it seems to be printing well. I still get some clicking/missing from the extruder. I remember I had to play with temperatures with the stock hotend, so I probably have to do that again (now that I'm printing at 195 instead of 175).
I didn't replace the gear that grabs the filament. They seemed to be the same size, and I thought, "Why take the
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Off-topic a little, but what speed can you get out of the XL300 smartrapcore? How does it compare to Eclips3d?
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animoose
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CoreXY Machines
When I print objects with sharp corners such as cubes, they tend to come out with a bit of overshoot which makes them less sharp. The degree to which this happens varies with speed. In this example (https://goo.gl/photos/RMtmSzh5XiM2tcd9A) the same object is printed at 45 mm/s and 20 mm/s, with a noticeable difference, for example on the cube in the top right of the object.
Does anyone know a wa
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animoose
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Printing
Quotemarc2912
Quotewidespreaddeadhead
Quotemarkts
I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.
Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)
Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?
Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well.
Not
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead
Quotemarkts
Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks tryin
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebmays
Quoteanimoose
Quotebmays
I absolutely love PLA since it prints great for me. I agree, the FT ABS I got is a but of a PITA to use. I bought some wood filament that I'm pretty stoked to try but I'm not certain this stock MK9 setup will do it justice.
@jhitesma, Why do you no longer have your marlin firmware listed in your signature? Your files are the only reason my auto level is wor
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotebmays
I absolutely love PLA since it prints great for me. I agree, the FT ABS I got is a but of a PITA to use. I bought some wood filament that I'm pretty stoked to try but I'm not certain this stock MK9 setup will do it justice.
@jhitesma, Why do you no longer have your marlin firmware listed in your signature? Your files are the only reason my auto level is working like a champ now
I
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix
First abs print! Wahoo!
The abs is green, and the clearish is glow in the dark pla.
Nice - good work!
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Losing bed space isn't often a problem. I've only very rarely printed up to the size limits.
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix
Well, I have been printing like crazy and been having a ton of fun! Here are some pics... Planning to attach a 40mm fan to the extruder once it arrives.
Oh yeah, how are you guys attaching the glass to the bed? I have ran my hotend into those stupid black clamps.
I use the black clips, and then I adjusted the end stop position so that the home is inside them. I also changed the pri
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMuckYu
By the way I am interested in printing with flexible material. Does anyone know what the best choice would be? Ninjaflex, Filaflex or any others?
I would like to try to print a wristband/strap for a watch. Anyone got recommendations?
Ninjaflex is very flexible, but can be hard to print with. Semiflex (a variant of Ninjaflex) and Taulman PCTPE are a bit stiffer, easier to print with,
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix
Quoteanimoose
QuoteUltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?
Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the gr
by
animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix
So I made this in google sketchup, but when I put the file in rep host it looks like it should. But when I slice it, it no longer has the hole in it?
Why?
Might be the normals pointing the wrong way. That is, the faces of the inset portion might be pointing inwards rather than outwards. The fact that the faces are colored differently and you can see the grid showing through suggests
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteUltiFix
So when I print 2 objects like one has a piece that fit's into another piece, male and female the female piece is to small, maybe the male end is to big to. How do I get my printer to print the scale right?
One option which sometimes works is to print either of both parts with reduced extrusion. In Slic3r, you do this by changing extrusion multiplier in the filament settings. 0.9 or
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejcantalupo
QuoteUltiFix
Im liking cura, if you haven't tried it give it a go!
I've been going back and forth between Slic3r and Cura. Here's what I really like about Cura: it has a Support Type of "Touching build plate", so you can do supports just on the bottom. Slic3r has "Enforce support for the first layers" but it doesn't work.
I have mostly used Slic3r, but mostly because I got used
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotethebabymaker
Lookong for any recommendations on hardware (screws, bolts,etc) kits that I can buy to have a good stock of hardware for upgrades. Or, which sizes should I get to cover 90% of my needs? Nothing worse than realizing you are missing something in the middle of a project!
I didn't find any kits that I liked, but I did go to boltdepot.com and buy a selection of M3 and M4 bolts (from
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animoose
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Prusa i3 and variants