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Printing issues ...
It that a statement?
A general fact?
Do you seek any advise, if so on what?
Please provide the details required so people that don't know your machine and problem can make sense out of it.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
It is Mega / Ramps clone so either Repetier or Marlin will run on it.
Since it is no problem getting these in current version, including config tools it might be easier to flash a clean firmware and set up from scratch.
With these clones you never know how old their firmware is anyway.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
If you have a Gen6 board then check Google for the thermistor problem, there are guides on how to fix this on the circuit board- I think it was by adding a simple capacitor.
And the stepping for the extruder is adjusted the same as for the axis, even in the sam line in the firmware and the same command in Proterface.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Sort of although not really...
It just means it still happens but even with higher speeds it should not change the slope.
And we still have no clue if it a positiong or extruding problem.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
No clue...
But if your extruder is not designed for that stuff than it will certainly struggle.
Try with normal filament and if working tell the guy to invest in a proper extruder and hotend for complicated (flex) filaments.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
IMHO and from the few tests I could do with sample pieces I have to say PETG is in the same area as Nylon when comes to being complicated.
As Robert said it really needs near perfect print settings to get good results, starting with the extrusion rate and speed.
Had similar issues with my top layers, especially on smaller parts like test cubes.
When you do the next test pay attention to the first
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I agree 0.4 is almost overkill for the extruder if you use 1.75mm filament and as said it would require a quite big nozzle too.
Do yourself a favour and measure first if you really get 50mm or 100mm of filament moved when you extrude this amount.
If not adjust the stepping for the extruder until it is just right.
Reduce the layer height, start with 0.3 for the fisrt and then use 0.2mm - less if y
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Can you see anything during the print that could be a possible cause?
E.g. when the blob forms do you see the extruder going faster?
Does it only happen at the begiining/end of a line?
Is the appearance the same when printing a solid test cube?
It is just too even to be without a proper cause, if it would happen randomly ok, but not in such a perfect pattern.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Check the many threads with similar topics, the answers are always the same and will guide you.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Thanks for testing and the feedback!
To the problems:
1. The tesfiring from the menu worked fine for me but I have not used the display for a while.
Will check this and if working here will adjust adjust thepower levels a bit higher, if not working here I will fix this.
2. I did not configure any Z-axis as my machine does not have a motorised table - that is a planned upgrade.
As it is not define
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Stuffmaker does some weird things...
But if adjusting the endstop does not fix it it means there must be some offset somewhere, otherwise it would not change.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Well, you got that bit right, which was the reason to switch to Marlin as with that you at least have the support of the cummunity.
Did you try to check for a homing offset?
There is another "workaround" to get you going:
Adjust the z-endstop so you have enough clearance over the plate when starting a first layer.
Stop the first layer as soon as it starts to extrude filament and adjust the endsto
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Downunder35m
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Printing
That is a different or at least newer model.
If you really have a display attached then I am not sure if the firmware would work.
And Marlin is a firmware for this - why do you ask about firmware if you don't know what could be available?
If you want what was designed for the machine you will have to fight a few weeks with Stuffmakers great support.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
If you mean the Mega Prusa with frame made from threaded rods then I can offer mine.
Otherwise it is not too hard to adjust Marlin to the needs of the Gen6 board.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I don't know what firmware you use but I first double check all your slicing settings in this regard are correct.
And by default there should be no offset in the firmware.
With the M501 command you should see in the status window if there are any offsets, you can change them with corresponding codes.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
If it can fold inside the cold end than it is pretty obvious that the inside diameter is far too large.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Ok, my bad, had to have a really close look at the image again t realise there is no infill.
The pattern is too regular, so there must be something you should be able to see/hear.
Since it is going all the way around I would think it only leaves the extruder.
If it is printed there could be chance that some tooth is formed correctly has some debris in it.
Could also be a problem of the stepper dr
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I don't use retetier but usually this behavoir is cuase by an offset.
Either in the firmware of the slicer.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I can already see the cause in the first image - the pattern goas along with the infill.
Seems your overlap is a bit much.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
In some cases it can help to drillout the extruder so a teflon tube of the right ID can be fitted.
Requires some careful drilling though as you want a really tight fit preventing slipping.
The area around the bolt can be cut free once the tube is in place.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Has nothing to do with steps.
You need to configure your endstops and axis direction correctly.
As for the humming: check your stepping and motor current and make sure you don't go overboard with the movement speed.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Did you calibrate your extrusion?
Did you perform test to confirm it is correct?
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Downunder35m
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Printing
One thing you need to consider when slicing is that the model need ot be a solid and watertight.
But apart from that you should start with with lower speeds and a proper calibration of the machine.
You can only get decent prints if the hardware is working correct and the firmware does not mess with you either.
So far I neither saw a calibration mentioned, nor any of the relevant print settings us
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Downunder35m
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Printing
The 10.6µm wavelength means the light is absorbed by basically all "see through" materials out there, with the exception of some foils and materials used for CO2 laser optics.
Even clear safety goggles will do the trick, no need for special CO2 laser safety glasses at insane prices.
As VDX pointed out thickness is no issue either unless you deal with direct impcats of the laser light, refections
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Sorry but I can't really follow you here.
So far the modified Kimbra is working really well but of course for good results some testing is required as well as a proper machine configuration.
The laser control works exactly as planned so issues here should only come from lack of experience or wrong settings.
The Inkscape plugin is no must have as standard Gcode is accepted, which mean programs lik
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Then how about we all get together here and make a proper guide that covers all the problems, how to notice and fix them plus the required steps in the right order?
Don't know about you but to me it sounds more productive than complaining about what is not there...
Can't be too hard to agree on some webservie that allows document sharing for little workgroups.
Just a thought though as I still gue
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Well your points are valid but how do you go on about explaining it all with thausands of different printer models out there ?
I tried to point out the (fo us maybe) obvious things a noob might not even think about when he trusts the manual he used.
And lubricating a belt as you call it is not fix an alignment problem but I see it is always far easier to make fun out of the work someone else did
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Usually this error indicates buffer or com port problems.
You can try to check the settings and/or use a shorter USB cable with ferrite filters.
There is also plenty of discussion about this error in the repetier forums/blogs but (at least for me) without a definate answer to the problem, although I did not search too long...
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Why would you want to use a very early and buggy Marlin release if you can use current versions that run much smoother?
Sure, with a lot of work it could be possible to port it back but I fail to see the point.
Like any other firmware all that needs to be done is match the settings to the machine in use - and that would be much faster and better than modding an outdated Marlin with new features..
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
For such thermal images it really pays off to have a visible overlay.
But the temp difference becomes quite obvious if you consider a few things:
1. The nozzle is quite a long one, it can only get heat from the block above where the thread is.
2. The nozzle is filled with plastic, unless you kept the set temp for a few minutes there is no chance the nozzle reaches a high temperature.
Only if t
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Downunder35m
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Printing