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Printing issues ...
Is you power supply set for dual pin control or single pin control of the laser? The default in the firmware is dual.
I noticed there are different configurations for the power supplies out there, it might be that you need to double check if the laser on pin of the power supply really goes on the right pin on the ramps board.
If laser on and laser PWM are switched over the laser won't fire.
But t
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Hmmm....
Thermistors don't heat, they give temperature readings.
If something is heating without being set to heat, then what is actually heating? Bed or hotend?
What is the temperature reading in the printer software or on the display? If it is correct for the heat you might have a faulty mosfet on your board.
If you have a totally incorrect temp for the heating it might just be a faulty thermis
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Downunder35m
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
By the way: I can now run engravings at 7200mm/min on my Marlin based laser.
This was done by matching the acceleration values to the movement speeds.
Before that the max possible was around 4500mm/min above that lost steps, shifting, rattling noises.
I think it would be really benefitial for a lot of people if someone could design a model for jerk and acceleration checks.
My printer firmware is
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Assuming the software and firmware is fine my best guess would be a failing thermistor on the bed or a failing mosfet on the Ramps board.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I am working with some guys on a MarlinKimbra version with full support for 8bit laser engraving.
The firmware is constantly being worked on and upgraded - although with the main aim of using it for a dedicated laser machine.
However once is up and running the plan is to move it into the main branch along with other requested features.
You can check my threads in the laser secetion for updates.
T
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Downunder35m
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
If I am not mistaken than your native tongue is German.
I would be able to understand if it helps...
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Downunder35m
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Printing
I want to add a bit:
Even if safety glasses would absorb 100% of the laser light they encounter the glasses will never filter 100% of light that has a different wavelenght.
If you cut something than the flame from that will be bright enough to cause you trouble even (or just beacause) on such a small spot.
A friend of mine was heavily into laser holograms.
His thought was "I wear the glasses so n
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
You might want to add some mechanics to the list...
Motors, rails, bearings and such.
Same for mounts.
If you have enough material for frame and mechanics then you will sure find bits and pieces on the way you might need, srews, washers and so on - always good to have a small box of them at hand.
You can find complete optics sets incl. mounts on Ebay if there is no local store around.
It might h
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Did you use the 1.6.8 IDE?
The older ones all give me various errors for no good reason.
If you did not make any changes to the firmware than it should complie with no errors at all.
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
The pic really help to visualise everything -great job!
One suggestion for your problem of paralellity:
Currently you use a quite thin block to hold the x-axis on the smooth rods.
If you design them as a double so to speak you can use one smooth roller on the top and on the bottom of each side of the mounts.
Same story for the nut on the threaded rod.
In my setup there is a quite strong spring on
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Downunder35m
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Printing
You might want to try again with power to the printer first
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Downunder35m
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Printing
This should be pinned or linked somewhere for reference...
It is one of the few well documented threads with a solution that includes all the vital info for other people facing similar issues.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Ok one of the first things I do when everything else seems to be fine is using a different filament, sometimes you just got a bad spool...
Another trick up my sleeve is the manual friction test:
Take the hotend off and extrude about 20cm of filament with quite some pressure on the wheel and while giving it resistance with your fingers - you want to really feel the filament being firced out betwee
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Downunder35m
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Printing
You say it is not extruding enough.
Is that in general or at the beginning of a print?
I am asking because the bowden system will need quite some length before you reach an even pressure.
Same goes for retractions, which need to be longer.
If you push 100mm without the hotend and have no issues to the point that the filament is stripping when you block it then there is not much left.
Watch carefu
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Downunder35m
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Printing
You don't want to play games with your eyesight.
Glasses that are just dark won't tell you how much light they actually absorb where it counts.
For basically every common laser wavelength you can get the right safety glasses.
There is no real need to see the laser light itself as you will always see the result.
Either the darkening of the surface or the light caused by the burning.
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Is your extruder calibrated?
Just asking as in the top infill it looks far too much, could be your settings though.
To me the cubes look like the extruder stopped extruding during the print.
Did you notice that the extruder clicked, jumped or made fancy noises in the problem area?
The plastic meant for this area needs to go somewhere if you don't have a big blob of plastic hanging somewhere on yo
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Downunder35m
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Printing
It looks like you have three different models to combine, the figurine, the name plate and then the name.
This can be done with ease in Sketchup if:
A) All three models are really solids.
All three models are true solids in Sketchup as well.
C) The models are of similar complexity.
Problem with combining models is that in most cases not all models have been created by yourself or in the same pr
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Danke für die Info und die ganzen Bilder.
Bin nun doch neugierig geworden und werd mit wohl in absehbarer Zukunft dann mal eine Bleue Laserdiode zulegen müssen.
Gibt ja wohl doch eindeutige Vorteile die mir bislang entgangen sind, da hilft nur selber testen
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Downunder35m
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Laser-Ecke
Finally good news in the end
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Doesn't look too bad.
I would double check the steps for Z and maybe add a few to get exactly 20mm in height.
One axis being low and one heigh is not really good, so try the print again with a few more z steps and turn the cube by 45°.
If now the cube is even in the sides you might have to tweak the steps for X or Y too.
I prefer to measure the axis directly to check the stepping.
Using a fixed p
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Downunder35m
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Printing
PLA just oozes...
When not printing the material has more time to fully heat through and once that happens it is almost like water.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Nope I found it slows things down too much and when using wipe (where required for the type of filament) I have no real issues with oozing.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Well at least now I know where to ask if I have a need to know how to make proper signs
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Yes a bit of infill to support the top layers is required.
I am just wondering because if your calibration is right then the extruded lines should be fused together instead of having a gap between them.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Still looks really good to me.
Just to be curious: Is that done by cutting out one layer of foil and where more than one color is required you place another piece into the cutout?
Or is done with colored ares under the foil?
In any case I would have been a happy customer if I ordered the signs
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Downunder35m
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Laser Cutter Working Group
Well I don't know if you have special needs with your amount of motors but I do know that the TB6560 is well known for positiong problems.
Original boards not so much, china clones badly.
Best option would be to use a board with different drivers or if your not electronically challenged to read up on the shifting problem and the fix over at CNCZONE.
It is bit involved to get them work properly bu
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Downunder35m
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Printing
If you can get a more verbose output you might have a chance to find the problem easier.
Usually the kill order comes for temp issues but then it has something included with the heater ID (or at least it should).
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Downunder35m
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Printing
There is something wrong in your setup or calibration.
The infill is not even touching the perimeters and in some areas the perimeter lines itself have no contact to each other.
Either you are not extruding enough or your real layer height is more than what you set in the slicer - did you measure with some calipers?
Let's say a small test cube 20mm heigh and with 0.2mm layers all through.
If that
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Downunder35m
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Printing
The official claim is that setting the retraction independently in the firmware will allow for better print results.
Biggest difference to doing it just through a slicer is that you can use different speeds, acceleration and distances.
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Downunder35m
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Printing
Did you change the stepper drivers for a different model?
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Downunder35m
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Printing