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Printing issues ...
Re: Printing problems.... - 5 years ago
Also seems like over-extrusion. What is the filaments actual outer diameter, and what is it set to in the slicer? (or, extrusion multiplier if you use it)by Montiey - Printing
Re: Print quality degrades after fist few layers/ sort time - 5 years ago
What does the bottom of the bottom layer look like? Also, I would like to expand on DaGameFace's suspicion of too high of a temp... Check and make sure that the thermistor is not broken, or reporting temps too low. If it has partially come out of the hotend (EXTREMELY BAD FIRE HAZARD), this would cause the hot end to get WAY hot before the thermistor registers the target temp. What about a heateby Montiey - Printing
Re: pla constantly jamming in hotend - 5 years ago
Do you have the dimensions for your custom hot end? I would like to compare it to lets say, and E3D v6, just so we know what kind of structure it has. Also, try raising the hot end temperature and make sure that the thermistor is reporting the correct temperature to the control board. Even so, you may have to print at a higher temp due to thermal differences in where the thermistor reads the tempby Montiey - Printing
Re: Y Axis waves - 5 years ago
I have some flex tubing with printed bolt clamps to hold it to the screw / motor. It seems to work well. A loose belt will do this, but first try a print with the heated bed off. If that is still messy than tighten your belts (not too much). Can we get a picture of the printer? Specifically the Z axis?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? 
- 5 years ago
Glad we could help!by Montiey - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 5 years ago
5mm is about as thick as you want, but it should do. I was a little worried about weigh vs strength- 4 or 3.5mm would have been nice, maybe thiner if I underestimate alu. I recommend using the PCB as a template to mark and drill the holes. The thing with 5mm is that you could easily sink the bolts flush and make the entire surface printable. If your nozzle or fan nozzles don't hit them then I wouby Montiey - Printing
Re: what cause this? - 5 years ago
The first layer is quite big. Maybe to low 1st layer / z home position?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Stepper Motor Clicking - 5 years ago
My motors never get hot, just warm but the drivers are constantly too hot to hold on to. If your motors are hot then I can't imagine what the drivers are doing. Are they also hot?by Montiey - Printing
Re: First layer, stretched lines - 5 years ago
That looks good. You want the infill to be 45 degrees to the X or Y axis. Otherwise, the lower and upper edges of that sheet you printed will be really weak.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 5 years ago
Using thicker glass will only help a little. The main problem (I think) is that the plate is rising with the PCB, so bend-resistance can't fully remove the banding. I have no idea if the alu I got was a milled plate or rolled sheet, but it was a bit rougher than I would have liked. Also, the mail carrier dropped it through the door. This left a small deformation that needed some filing. If you arby Montiey - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 5 years ago
Double post, sorry.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Can´t find a solution for my Z-ribbing, help? - 5 years ago
I had this problem to the point where some layers were about 1mm higher or lower during extrusion than they should be. The result was simply maddening. I wasn't running PID on my heatbed, so I used that and then figured out that I really need something besides glass. The problem with glass is that it gets clipped to the heater (usually). This means that it has to follow the motions of the warpingby Montiey - Printing
Re: ABS delamination from heatbed - 5 years ago
What does the first layer look like? Can you take a photo? Also, try blue tape on the bed. Glass alone didn't work out well for me, but with ABS it would seem that it would never work.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Can't get SD card to work - 5 years ago
An SD card pulling several amps seems like a nightmare scenario, but maybe i'm just spoiled with new technology.by Montiey - Printing
Re: First layer, stretched lines - 5 years ago
The only success I ever have with first layers involves setting the first layer extrusion width to 200%. You should also play with the rest of those settings if you feel like "auto" doesn't work right (for example, infill should be a high percentage so the nozzle doesn't have to move as much, and the extruder just needs to work faster. This makes infill faster).by Montiey - Printing
Re: First layer Problem - 5 years ago
What surface are you printing on? You may want to try a mirror since they would probably have higher quality flatness. I use a 4.8mm aluminum plate from OnlineMetals, just bolted on above a pcb heater.by Montiey - Printing
Re: First layer Problem - 5 years ago
Way too close. Your z gap seems like its 0.02mm, when it should be around 0.2mm. The hills are probably a result of slight bumps in the bed. If you print the object in a different location, does the ripple stay put or move with the print?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Terrible ABS Layer Bonding - 5 years ago
Not sure what i'm doing wrong here.. The prints are now much stronger, but still much weaker than my PLA prints @ 212°C. Should I try without the layer fan? Not sure how having a fan would do anything different than replicate the properties of higher areas further from the build plate (layers that are at room temp). If I need all the layers to be hot for ABS, maybe I should try some normal ABS anby Montiey - Printing
Re: Odd Random Z Banding on Prints - 5 years ago
No point in doing more than a generic PID tuning command for now, because the noise present without the heatbed is still too much to even see if the heatbed makes a considerable difference. What you should try and do is check for any possible cause of slop, motion, or looseness.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Terrible ABS Layer Bonding - 5 years ago
I have no reference for how ABS should behave but I suspect that in making it not smell terrible FF may have screwed up the formula a bit. I printed another Benchy at 0.3mm layer height and at 260, and that one worked fine. Nice and strong, although I still got warping on the bottom. I am currently printing @ 264°C and 85°C, but the bed must nearly be on a 100% duty cycle to maintain temp, and taby Montiey - Printing
Re: Odd Random Z Banding on Prints - 5 years ago
Try a print without the heatbed and see if that changes the characteristics of the banding.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Odd Random Z Banding on Prints - 5 years ago
Are you using PID on your heatbed? If so, it may need to be tuned. As the PID loop fluctuates the heatbed warps up and down. The only real solution I have found is to use a 4 to 5mm aluminum plate, either with a PCB heater of silicone mat. If PID doesn't help, check for loose axis.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Terrible ABS Layer Bonding - 5 years ago
I'll be away tomorrow, but I will definitely try printing hotter. This ABS seems to be extraordinarily fluid, even just above 230. ...Should I try 290 and see what happens? I can't imaging that pure carbon bonds well, but..by Montiey - Printing
Terrible ABS Layer Bonding - 5 years ago
I have close to zero problems regarding layer adhesion and strength with PLA and ninjaflex, plus the ABS-compatible MakerGeeks PLA filaments. However, I have a roll of Form Futura ClearScent ABS. This stuff lives up to its low scent name, but for some reason all my prints in it are HORRIBLY weak, and usually break apart from their own warping force. I printed this at 230°C, which should be fine fby Montiey - Printing
Re: LCD with Marlin displays garbage - 5 years ago
I have this same issue, and am also wondering if it has anything to do with the fact that I sometimes get a static shock either from the aluminum heatbed or from the power supply case. When the characters get scrambled it doesn't seem to mess with the gcode feed at all, so the print keeps going but again the display is unusable until I click the rotary wheel to update the entire grid. Do you thinby Montiey - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Re: Prints but then... - 6 years ago
Maybe your y axis driver is overheating? Try blowing on it or holding a fan to the board while it prints.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Regional Blob on Seam - 6 years ago
That looks like the Z scar you get when the layers change in the same XY location every time. I have problems with this... Try either enabling or disabling the "retract on layer change" option. Also speed up retract length / speeds, or Z acceleration / speed. I guess the trick is to get the Z axis to move as quick as possible so there is no time for the nozzle to leak.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Prints but then... - 6 years ago
It looks like the bed (Y axis) is jamming. You could try lubricating the rods, tightening the belt, etc.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Firmware - 6 years ago
I would say the same. I just set up the latest version of Marlin from the MakerFarm branch for my i3v. It has a bunch of new settings, so if you are unsure about how to set one, just ask around here. Most of the features that are optional are things like safety settings. Some of these include heater residency, min temp, and others. I recommend using ALL of the settings like this that you can. Theby Montiey - Printing
Re: Firmware - 6 years ago
You can't. You need the arduino files. You edit those, then compile & upload it to the board (in the .hex format, which is what you are looking at). Without the original files, you can still upload the firmware (not sure how, but you should be able to flash the .hex), but you can't edit any settings or other parts of the code. Unless you can get a hold of the arduino files you will need to doby Montiey - Printing