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Printing issues ...
Hmm. I may just increase the maximum X size but leave the bed size the same in Cura. This should let this work.
by
Montiey
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Printing
You should be able to change that. I use 2 perimeters, and 3-4 top/bottom layers. I recommend setting up manual extrusion widths if you use Slic3r. I switched to cura, and while it lacks filament profiles, its more reliable.
I dusted off my old slic3r settings here:
Note that this is for a 0.4mm nozzle, but should give you an idea of what seemed to work for me.
by
Montiey
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Printing
I think a moderator can do it.
But I just forgot which spell will summon one..
by
Montiey
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Fisher
Seems like it has something to do with the top and bottom solid layers..
Try disabling the top or the bottom solid fill and see if it keeps the problem away.
by
Montiey
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Printing
Just curious..
Can I have a piece of start gcode that moves the head off the bed to dump some filament, then move back into the normal limits area and continue working?
I didn't see a feature like this for marlin.
by
Montiey
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Printing
What pitch are your leadscrews? Use the "Steps per millimeter: leadscrew driven systems" calculator here to find the esteps.
Calculator
You can enter the new value with "M92 Zxxxx" as o_lampe said. (only if eeprom settings were enabled in the firmware)
If you find that you need to enable eeprom settings, you are better off stepping back and setting up the latest stable version of marlin for you
by
Montiey
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Printing
I had set the period for the nozzle and bed to less than 1 minute. Increased the nozzle to 150 seconds, and the bed to 300. It can successfully change temperatures now.
by
Montiey
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Printing
So, too cold? I guess that was right.
by
Montiey
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Printing
So, I just ditched the MakerFarm firmware for the latest Marlin firmware. Works great, enjoying the new features. BUT! Heres the deal:
I preheat the printer long before I start a print, since i'm using the stock PCB heater with a 4.81mm aluminum plate. The thing takes 5 mins to heat up, but is very stable and doesn't flex and give horrible ridges on prints when the PID is slightly off. My nozzle
by
Montiey
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Printing
If the printer is shaking itself apart, try lowering your acceleration and jerk values. It should be able to print anything at ANY speed without being violent. The higher speeds will only be noticed when it can reach it without violating the acceleration or jerk parameters (long, straight lines are always the fastest).
by
Montiey
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Printing
I say Z axis calibration as well.
Use this very nice calculator here: RepRap Calculator - Prusa Printers
Scroll down to Steps per millimeter - leadscrew driven systems, Then input everything you know. For me, this gave me a value of 4000 steps per millimeter.
by
Montiey
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Printing
120% first layer I guess would be okay, but I use 180% just because having it thick does the same as having the whole layer too thin and smushed, but makes things look cleaner.
Next, does buildtak require a heated bed? I'm sure it could work without it, but that could be the root of your problems. Then again, if things didn't work with painters tape.. A heated bed will always help, especially if
by
Montiey
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Printing
Could be a nozzle jam. Try disassembling your heater block and soaking it in acetone (I've heard this works, but please double check). This should dissolve the plastic and / or loosen the blockage if there is one. Also, while its open, Take a look at your PTFE tube. Is it badly deformed at the bottom?
by
Montiey
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Printing
What slicer do you use?
Cura has a "pause at z =" feature. Did you accidentally enable this? It would halt the printer and require manual input to restart the process.
by
Montiey
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Printing
Hmm..
I currently have no logical explanation for why the print is delaminating. There are only so many variables that can be changed..
Do you have PID enabled for the bed?
Have you tried printing with the bed off?
by
Montiey
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Printing
A couple things..
Try disabling cooling all together, and try reducing the print speed to something lower than ~60 mm/s. Then, crank the temp for the first 20 layers or so to something WAY higher than what a sane person would use ( > 225°). I'm curious if your hotend is not heating to the proper temperature, causing a cold layer.
Other than that, your first layer looks pretty good.
Try using p
by
Montiey
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Printing
Look in your firmware for the Z_MAX position setting. This may be the soft-limit that is preventing your Z axis from rising further.
by
Montiey
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Printing
The heater cartridge is probably non polarized, so you should use a multimeters conductivity tester to probe the hotend and the + and - of the terminals where it is connected to see.
by
Montiey
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Printing
I was about to say something along those lines but then I got side tracked explaining how to upload a fresh firmware..
by
Montiey
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Printing
It is possible that the hotend is somehow connected to either terminal of the heater cartridge, creating a loop through the nozzle. This would make sense because otherwise nothing would happen if you just touched the + or -. Anyway, it will be hard to tell what part of the ramps is broken. If you want, you can use one ramps to try and fix the other, but I would save the effort and get a new one (
by
Montiey
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Printing
If the seller has told you not to change the firmware on the board, that's just crazy. You should definitely get a clean install of whatever firmware the board can run. Like Mendel said, if your board is an Arduino or Arduino clone, I recommend Marlin.
The reason that you should wipe the firmware, (and no, you can't read the file thats been written to the board already) is because if you want to
by
Montiey
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Printing
Fantastic work, detective.
If the cable is too short and pulling on the extruder / hotend, then you will definitely need to either extend the wires or pull some slack up to give it some more room.
Note for future reference: This same thing will happen with the filament if you are using a direct drive extruder and overhead spools. I have used a bowden tube that basically lets me put the entrance
by
Montiey
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Printing
Did you swap filaments, or layer height, or anything else besides the infill settings?
by
Montiey
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Printing
Is this a recent problem? The fan seems to be wired to the power supply and not to an adjustable output on the board.
by
Montiey
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Printing
Try 200 % first layer extrusion width. Go even higher until the print looks terrible. Otherwise, I'm stumped. Do you have any pictures of the prints that warped?
by
Montiey
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Printing
uh...
Extrusion width for the whole print? you only want the first layer to be affected.
by
Montiey
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Printing
Make sure that the first layer is adequately squished.
What slicer do you use?
In slic3r you set the first layer extrusion width, which should be like %200.
by
Montiey
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Printing
that's what happens in slic3r for me to.. "nope! too thin.. ignoring.."
by
Montiey
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3D Design tools
I found openscad a couple of weeks ago. It's pretty cool and everything I've done so far has seemed logical, but now this is stumping me.
This code is a bit hard to read, but my problem is the thin wall to the right of the main object. I have a way around this, but I was just curious what might be causing this. All the objects I use to subtract with are exactly the size they need to be, and this
by
Montiey
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3D Design tools