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Printing issues ...
Re: Fan During Printings? - 7 years ago
hmm.. mine is that size, but I never tried getting it up above 70.. I wonder if maybe it could actually be a 24v heatbed? did you solder the wires on yourself? this is the only thing I can think of, other that some limiting between the PSU and the pcb heater is happening in the controller.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Fan During Printings? - 7 years ago
how big is the heatbed? The ramps board may not be able to supply the current your bed needs. however, using w relay means all sorts of problems like fluctuation and inconsistent z positioning.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Infill going to the end of axis! - 7 years ago
you could try running the gcode at a very very slow speed and see if the results are better, or just different at all. I would blame the slicer for this, but missing steps are always a possibility.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Fan During Printings? - 7 years ago
line #240 is weather or not PID will be used to control the temperature. this has no effect on the current draw from the bed, so you should enable this if possible. Also, do a M303 to autotune the bed. for example, M303 E-1 S60 C8 will target extruder -1 (the bed) and run autotune at 60 degrees 8 times (to make sure that the heat has time to disperse).by Montiey - Printing
Re: Fan During Printings? - 7 years ago
I might suggest taking a peak at your firmware to see if the heatbed has maximum power output enabled. It is possible that something in the firmware is limiting the maximum temperature, or just the RAMPS output power.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Fan During Printings? - 7 years ago
The laws of physics say yes, but your power supply is probably not powerful enough if it can't even maintain the temperature after the initial drop.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Wavy first layer - 7 years ago
Try tweaking the First Layer Extrusion Width. I have mine set to 200% and the first layer goes down perfect every time. It might also be too high of a nozzle for the first layer.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Is it Wobble? Banding? - 7 years ago
O_Lampe: I just fixed this problem after about 2 months of "eBay and the forums". Realized that all my prints had random layers that were (the only way I can describe it) under-smushed, and so further in from the perimeter. I removed the tape from the heatbed, and when it went into a power cycle (more on this later), you could see the nozzle-bed gap increase by half a millimeter. Anyway, I remembby Montiey - Printing
Re: My Elephant has Pimples 
- 7 years ago
Things to check: -Loose nozzle -Loose bed -Overextrusion Also, do you have a layer fan/part cooling fan? It is a slim chance but the layer could be warping causing the ledges. A video of the printer printing would also help us think of solutions.by Montiey - Printing
Re: poor print quality with prusa I2 - 7 years ago
In the slicer, check ALL of your extrusion widths, like infill, perimeter, and things like that. make sure that they are something logical.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Occasional Banding on Prusa i3 - 7 years ago
Try running a PID tune on your heatbed. I know that if mine is off so much that the heat goes up/down by one degree, I get horrible prints. Are you using a heatbed relay or direct power from the control board?by Montiey - Printing
Re: PLA stuck in extruder barrel - 7 years ago
Have you tried unscrewing the heater block and heat break from the barrel? This should get the plastic at either end to loosen.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Extruding Problems on my Prusa i3 - 7 years ago
To get good bed adhesion, make sure that the first layer extrusion width (multiplier) is above 100%. I have mine at 160%, so it will extrude 60% more plastic on the first layer then normal.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Problem with "setting the number of stepper steps per millimetre of filament fed for a single-material machine" - 7 years ago
it looks like over extrusion, and / or too hot or cold in the last 2 photos.by Montiey - Printing
Re: Problem with "setting the number of stepper steps per millimetre of filament fed for a single-material machine" - 7 years ago
you mean 40 to 60, right?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Buildtak - No adhesion? - 7 years ago
My pla prints fine at 210, and that's kinda a recommended starting point for pla. I have really bad oozing and z scars, so I am experimenting with 204. the lower the temperature, the lower the adhesion, but also less ooze. hotter temps will offer better adhesion and part strength, but also will cause ridiculous mess (good for parts & tools, not jewelry..).by Montiey - Printing
Re: Buildtak - No adhesion? - 7 years ago
Also, make sure that your first layer extrusion width is boosted well above 100%. I have mine set to 200 in slic3r, it helps alot.by Montiey - Printing
Re: CURA Printing Same Object - 7 years ago
Hmm. What version are you using? I switched to slic3r because cura was lacking some options, but try clicking through all the different viewing modes on the plate too see if its "ghosting" somewhere. Also, try individually deleting the object(s)by Montiey - Printing
Re: Shorted out printer whilst plugging in USB now motors wont move. Prusa i3. - 7 years ago
When you turn it on, what happens? What are the lights on the control board doing?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Too many issues with this print! - 7 years ago
Looks like extrusion problems to me. Check your slicer settings, like filament diameter, and the multiplier. I don't use the multiplier, but just make sure I get an accurate measurement, and tweak it if I need to.by Montiey - Printing
Re: extrusion nice on the right and terrible on the left - 7 years ago
Is the extruder skipping steps on one side vs the other due to filament tension?by Montiey - Printing
Re: first layer why is the infill like this - 7 years ago
Looks like incorrect Z homing, with the layers not smushed enoughby Montiey - Printing
Re: how to driving a solenoid needle valve on wax printing head - 7 years ago
Dialman, is the needle valve a push/pullable valve, or a screw needle valve?by Montiey - Printing
Re: Input to solve issue with "strings" - 7 years ago
hmm.. Is your idler tension absurdly high on the filament? How hard is it to turn the extruder gear by hand? If its easy then I say your extruder stepper drivers aren't at their max power yet. Also I heard somewhere that stepper drivers can also cause skipping from over-powering the motors, but i'm not sure about this.by Montiey - Printing
Re: how to driving a solenoid needle valve on wax printing head - 7 years ago
Sorry, but i'm a bit of a noob.. What's a flyback diode? I've heard of flyback transformers in CRT displays, but that's it.by Montiey - Printing
Re: how to driving a solenoid needle valve on wax printing head - 7 years ago
Would a servo motor be strong enough to drive the valve? How much do you need it to move? A stepper motor would be perfect, however the only problem, and one that I can see being a very big one, is that the needle valve would need to be treated like a normal axis (with an endstop). This means that some custom code would be necessary to home the extruder (to fully open or closed). A servo my recomby Montiey - Printing
Re: pla and fan - 7 years ago
I have a fan nozzled towards the hotend tip but i'm not sure how much it actually helps, because the fan isn't powerful enough to blow much air at all.by Montiey - Printing
Re: How can I check if my extruder motor is working - 7 years ago
is it a bowden setup, or direct drive? You should be able to turn the bare shaft of a plain, unpowered stepper easily by hand, so there must be something keeping it from turning. Try removing it from the mount(s) and see if it spins then.by Montiey - Printing
Re: First Layer Print with PLA - 7 years ago
I just level my bed by watching the reflections off the glass (before applying tape) and then homed it with the adjustable nut as was necessary to get a unsmushed, yet adhered layer.by Montiey - Printing