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Printing issues ...
A heated bed always helps, 200% extrusion width for the 1st layer seems necessary, and a thick first layer also, like 0.2mm seemed to help for me.
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Montiey
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Printing
Any update? I had this problem trying to print a self-watering planter. I think that the problem was that it retracted on layer change, so then it had a small length where no filament was being extruded, and then it slowly returned to normal extrusion amount after ~5mm. Maybe "wipe while retracting" also includes the un-retract (slic3r)?
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Montiey
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Printing
Do you already have a valve that you are trying to mechanize (pics are always nice)? If so hooking a stepper up to it with an endstop for it home like x y and z would be logical. You could also peek into other kinds of drivers systems, like what normally would work the valve?
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Montiey
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Printing
Seems to be a slicer error since its one specific layer pattern that gets the offset.. What slicer do you run?
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Montiey
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Printing
QuoteDaveOB
So if your supply is 12V, take 200W / 12V = 16.6 amps
If your supply was 24V, take 200W / 24V = 8.3 amps
Just be sure to understand that increasing voltage from 12 to 24v will not double the amperage drawn. A bed designed for 24v will not need to draw as much because it takes advantage of the higher voltage to do the work.
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Montiey
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Printing
any luck with the i3 yet?
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Montiey
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Printing
ut is also possible that your endstop is in the wrong port. raise the axis way up, and then on its way down go and manually trip all of the other end stops to see if they do anything.
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Montiey
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Printing
that's very odd that one model would behave differently from another.
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Montiey
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Printing
just curious, did you download an stop or a whole Goode file?
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Montiey
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Printing
did you change first layer extrusion width? also it may turn out to be a thin spot in the filament. does it look like ther is just not enough filament being deposited, or does the layer just not stick?
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Montiey
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Printing
I would recalibrate your extruder steps, and re level and home the bed. I have to adjust my z end stop after any change to that axis; even tightening one screw.
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Montiey
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Printing
hmm. I would try seasoning in the meantime, but it looks like this is an upgrade that would be worth it.
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Montiey
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Printing
What you got: 15.58
What you wanted: 9.95
So.. 15.58/9.95=1.56582914573
take your current Z esteps value and add that number to it.
But, there is an easier way!
What is driving your Z axis? lead screw? threaded rod?
If you have threaded rod, somewhere it should say "M(some number) 2000mm x 0.8" or something like that. In this case the pitch of the threads is 0.8mm per revolution. This will work
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Montiey
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Printing
Try adjusting your extruder idler tension. I'd say set it just a little tighter than the point at which you can't hold the filament put while you extrude it by manually turning the gear. I am also going to recommend seasoning your hot end. The basic idea behind seasoning is that with a little canola or similar oil on the end of your filament, you put it in the hotend as normal and from there on o
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Montiey
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Printing
The cutoff temp in configuration.h is probably way high above the running temp so it will never let it extrude.
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Montiey
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Printing
What hotend are you using? Also, what are the two temps that you tried?
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Montiey
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Printing
I didn't see anyone mention tuning your stepper drivers here.. Still haven't had my printer for more than a few months, and still can't figure it out (shameless plugs: forums.reprap.org) but I know that if your drivers are under powered this can happen. Not sure if overpowered drivers can do anything but melt something, but it might cause skipping. See how hard it is to get your motors to skip a
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Montiey
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Printing
Make sure the right board is selected in the IDE. A blank screen usually means that the sketch gets uploaded, but then nothing works at all.
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Montiey
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Printing
I know that the acceleration values that my printer has leaves over extrusion on the ends of lines, and around corners. My nozzle is very leaky though. Even if you extrude some filament, back it off a lot, it will still constantly spew plastic.
Anyway, do you have a heated bed? What filament, hot end, and extruder do you use on your printer?
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Montiey
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Printing
Are you using separately calibrated filament profiles for each model with a different filament?
by
Montiey
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Printing
I would totally investigate a loose hotend, but I know pretty certain that the mount is very solid. It isn't a solid block of titanium, but you have to really push it a bit to get the nozzle to wobble at all; but if the bad quality only surfaces with the heatbed on how could it be a loose nozzle? I'm using the printed wades extruder that came with the kit (Makerfarm Prusa i3v 8", and a hexagon 1.
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Montiey
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Printing
Just hoping to get some answers here; I installed a 12v to 12v relay from Maker farm's eBay shop, and the relay part works perfectly. I changed the "deadzone" in marlin to 0 since the relay is binary and not gradual. However, this also causes the hotend to have horrible fluctuations +/- 3 degrees. Is there any way to disable PID just for the bed?
There is no obviously noticeable difference betwe
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Montiey
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Printing
Thomas Sanladerer (a great 3D printing wiz on youtube) once mentioned that he ran into trouble if the heated bed was off for the first layer, and because it turns on for the second and up, the bed actually warped down away from the head. Also, make sure that your first layer extrusion width in slicer is about 200%. As always, tinker with anything you can change.
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Montiey
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Printing
Does it do this over a solid surface at all? If not your setup / settings probably just aren't good at bridging.
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Montiey
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Printing
Remember that with the lining you can't exceed its temp limit, and this pretty much keeps you from printing anything above 230 degrees. I have an all metal hexagon hotend, but I still can't figure out why a temp limit was put at 220 from the factory.. I don't want to change it in case it was there to keep the world from imploding into a black hole, but I can't imaging that the hexagon stops there
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Montiey
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Printing
Thats just odd. the wave isn't good, but its offset is even weirder..
*goes looking for trusty old tinfoil hat*
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Montiey
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Printing
What calipers are you using? I wasted 20 bucks on some crappy ones, and they never have a perfect zero on them, but they don't loose distance and are somewhat accurate. The Inland PLA I've been using measures anywhere from 1.752 to 1.61, which is a considerably smaller margin than your measurements. you can do a quick test by printing a stair step cube or something, but print it solid. If its ove
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Montiey
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Printing
To answer your suggestions, I have a 30 amp power supply with three 12v outputs (1 for hotend heatsink fan, other 2 powering ramps through standard speaker wire). I'd assumed 30 amps is enough, and it seems like plenty for a 8"x8" heatbed and a hotend. As for temp consistency they are pretty solid. I ran PID tuning on both the heatbed and hotend, and they have very straight lines in the octoprint
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Montiey
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Printing
I have a 30 amp power supply with triple 12v outputs (1 for hotend heatsink fan, other 2 powering ramps through standard speaker wire). I'd assumed 30 amps is enough, and it seems like plenty for a 8"x8" heatbed and a hotend. As for temp consistency they are pretty solid. I ran PID tuning on both the heatbed and hotend, and they have very straight lines in the octoprint temp graph. What you said
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Montiey
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Printing
That thread is pretty much the problem I'm having, but I think it may be that the bed is actually causing extruder inconsistencies, due to the heatbeds load on the ramps. I noticed that in large, flat surfaces there are waves of filament that are shiny, and then matt. The shiny spots are also looking like they have been under extruded to the point that the strings aren't even connected that well
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Montiey
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Printing