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Printing issues ...
if you adjusting while printing, your layers won't match
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
It's not configured properly, you need to disable endstop max, only use minium, which i3 have you got? I can send you my firmware, If you post a pic of your i3, I can get motor working correctly for you but you need to calibrate the steps yourself. I don't use FT firmware, it's not properly configured.
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
not sure if the light up got to do with it, when mine is switched off and unplugged, and if I move any motor fast enough, even my endstop lights up, but my printer works perfect
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
second video has problem with y axis, looks to be problem with endstop config, I can't see the y endstop in the video so I'm not certain, they should be plugged in to minimum,
is this in your firmware?
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
#ifdef ENDSTOPPULLUPS
// #define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
// #define ENDSTOPP
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
is you hotend completely solid on the x carriage? if the hotend moves at all or has any play in it, you will have all sort of strange happening and you just can't seem to find them
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
possible uneven bed, if you don't have a guarantee flat glass, I had a print like that, and the bed wasn't properly level, not that I can level it anyway, y carriage have weak and bend arms in diagonal
if it is in the case of the y carriage causing the problem, you may or may not see it straight away, since the bed can be higher in the middle, or wherever it wishes, but corners are level.
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I haven't had a Delta so I couldn't be of much help with the print height, on my prusa i3 I gained more height after a hotend upgrade
as for the feed, have you check for the tension on gear and filament?
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
can you post your configuration.h I have a look
I have the Folger Junk i3 myself, or had, it no longer is after all the work been done to make it print without troubles
are you writing the firmware yourself or you using the pre-config one from Folger Tech? a lot aren't correct in that, you need to make lots of changes, and they are probably still using the firmware from 2013, thats the one I go
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
is your hotend 0.1mm behind the nozzle, just make it 0, and if you get problem with x, make that 30, the decibel can be your problem, it was in my case, only on z it will accept decibel, mine is 0.7mm, I just made it 1 and all works well. also if you get problem with it printing in mid air, comment out #define Z_RAISE_AFTER_PROBING, in the slicer g-code, whichever you using, instead of having jus
by
deaconfrost
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General
a bit of update on bed temp in regards to curling, I just printed out this 20mm cube at 84c starting bed temp, how did that managed? it wasn't completely glued to the bed when print was finished but it did have some hold on the bed..... but that's after everything I've done to the print in this post
straight to glass no tape no abs juice nothing. not a very clean print, was just doing it at rat
by
deaconfrost
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RAMPS Electronics
well here's how my printer is printing now, after a lot of part replaced, I wouldn't call it Folger Tech anymore
not a Folger Tech Garbage anymore
Aluminium MK3 Heated Bed, Borosilicate Glass Build Plate, Bowden Drive E3D v6 Printhead, Auto Bed Leveling, Ramp Board replaced(pic attached, that's the reason to replace), Mega replaced with genuine board instead of the cheap clone, Firmware fully r
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I also commented out raise after probing along with
G1 X0 Y0 F4000
G1 Z1
this got me printing perfect on the bed, if I enable raise after probing, it print at the height you defined in the firmware after probing, I can't yet find another way around it
by
deaconfrost
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General Mendel Topics
Found the problem, filament slightly missed align by 3degree from gear to the little hole on the block before entering the bowden coupler, modding the block to have the tube right up at the gear and see how that goes
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I've upgraded the print head to E3d v6 original, not a clone, bed upgraded to aluminium mk3,Borosilicate Glass Build Plate, belts replaced, converted to bowden drive, ramp board replaced, turned out D9 circuit burned out hence the fan not working, all rebuilt and stupid last night, test print with pla was perfect, clean and correct dimensions, went to make a new mounting, all seems well for over
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
I've ordered the original E3d v6, didn't find anything better to get other than multi nozzles, but they are too pricy, everything on this printer was clones when I first got it, I rather slowly replace them than buying another clone, I did get it running right for a week, then bit start to fail, begin with D9 fail on the ramp board to all sorts, the print head is the last piece to replace, might
by
deaconfrost
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General
PET - 8 years ago
anyone printed with PET yet?
just ordered some PET clear filament, wonder how they would turn out
by
deaconfrost
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Polymer Working Group
I'm planning to get the E3D v6 tomorrow, any input about this hotend kit? or is there something else less expensive? I'm looking for a hotend that do for TPU and stainless steel etc... those type of filaments
thanks
by
deaconfrost
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General
Zavashier did you have to change anything in firmware when upgraded to E3d hotend? I am going to upgrade mine to E3d j-head with x carriage replace and relocate motor to top of the frame, the stock hotend isn't great, the stock thermistor probably not reading the temp correctly either, If I print at 235c to 245c it will shrink really bad and does not stick to the aluminium bed with kapton on it,
by
deaconfrost
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Reprappers
yep I have reprap sheet under the bed and printer is in a chamber
I have the voltage at 12.94v to the board, bed and extruder now keeping above 12v and bed holding 105c during print
by
deaconfrost
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RAMPS Electronics
yea thats the 20mm cube, the 40mm came out perfect, top bottom and 4 walls straight and flat, really odd
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
zip file with 10 cubes in all sizes completed download
i looked closed up to the preview, 2nd layer is wider and a little away from first layer, strange
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
its nice and flat, no changes made from all the successful prints, but the funny thing now is, just few minutes ago I decided to print my own model instead of that calibration cube I downloaded, and my model is not lifting as all, where as the cube I downloaded was lifting not only in corners but also along the walls, from 3nd layer up, first layer is flat even tho I can remove it easily, I'm pri
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
after the experience with this folger tech printer, I'm a bit skeptic on budget 3d printer kit
by
deaconfrost
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General
been doing that since last night, I'm out of ideas, it was fine with just kapton on aluminum bed, but not working suddenly, I even cleaned it with acetone, really head scratching
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
yep, I have that mounted and its working 110%, bought mine on ebay since I wasn't able to print anything only problem now is getting the abs to stick, somehow it doesnt stick anymore at 100c + bed, where as it was sticking very well a week ago at 95c, it just doesnt come off till below 70c, now I can gently lift it with my nail at 100c.... head scratching
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
the stock folger tech i3 has no tensioner though, only if you upgrade it, stock one is just a plastic box with a plastic pin inside to hold the bearing, which bends rather easy, and the bearing is jammed, then filament won't feed
by
deaconfrost
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Printing
have windows 10 pro x64 on my kids laptop first it seems to runs very well and smooth for what they do, and since I did a fresh install, it is faster than before ofcos
on my own laptop, everything says compatible except deamontools pro x64, who knows I will install it later on, for now I need to tune up the printer voltage for the bed... I also need my android dev to be working correctly too.
by
deaconfrost
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General
supply to board is only 12.06v when nothing is on, once heatbed is on, supply in drop to 11.6v output to bed only 11.49v I cracnked up the voltage on PSU to 12.6v, now with extruder and bed both switched on they are both getting 12.03v, you are correct on the fan, but my problem there is m106 does nothing, the output is dead, it was working, but just went dead all of a sudden, I have 35v caps on
by
deaconfrost
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RAMPS Electronics
just wondering, I have no fan on the ramp board, only fan thats working is in the psu, other than that, none, I did have a fan on D9 but now D9 has no current, both the heatbed and extruder are getting less than 12v when heating, anything I need to look out for when cranking up the voltage?
thanks
by
deaconfrost
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RAMPS Electronics
folger tech stock filament feed is awful, plastic pin bends on bearing and there you have click click click or no feed just grinding off filament, I use this one now and works really well
its not a very good kit, psu isnot great, just bought a new meter to do a rebuild and test everything, extruder heater gets 11.79v and bed only getting 11.48v fan is dead, no current from d9
by
deaconfrost
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Printing