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Printing issues ...
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
the higher the microstepping the less torque you going to have, I never used tmc2100 so I couldn't comment on it, I also hear a lot about drv8825 not as good with the current, heres a review of the tmc2100 I watchedby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
only thing left I can think of to try is lower the micro stepping to 1/4 instead of 1/16, the less micro stepping the more repeatable position, you will need to change the step per mm in firmwareby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
is it happening all 4 sides ?by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
belts and bearings are smooth with no play? bed firmly mounted?by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
how firm is your frame and z rods? I just finished a new build of a large printer using full leadscrew on all axis, made sure the frame is fully rigid and all rods are firm, layer consistency is 110% from first printby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: What grease for linear bearings? - 8 years ago
I used wheel bearing grease on the i3 aswell, and I print 18hours plus a day for 3 months solid I do sell my prints thoughby deaconfrost - General
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
yup, all 12mm rods, bed is big and heavy so 4 12mm rods to keep it in place, again very solid, doesn't go anywhere other than up and down the most fun part I had was watching the first layer from underneath, printer is so big I can just kinda get under the bed and look at it print, on first layer I have a around 650mm space to move about running low on filament and cash, hopefully I get someby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
Could have been better with lower nozzle temp and retract on layer change, Cura in Repetier didnt have the optionby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
I aim for print quality and price next I look in to ease of assembly, although there aren't much more it can simplify with the strength of the 12mm rods plus a solid design mounting, there isn't really need for 2 rods, as you can see from the test print, theres absolutely no chance of the guide shifting with those 12mm rods unless you let them loose I'm printing the 3dbenchy at the minute, Iby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
thanks tobben, the corner feel shape in the hand, it is a lot better than the i3 on belts I printed a 20mm cube on the i3 at 0.02mm and is no better than this cube at 0.25mmby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
all up and running, using the v6 instead of chimera, one thermistor die out of the blue, don't have a spare and dont want to take it from the v6 0.25mm layer height 100mm/s Print 100mm/s travel 20mm/s first layer 30mm/s outer perimeter 60mm/s inner perimeter 80mm/s infill 60mm/s skin infill it was printed with 0 infill actually bridging very well so far so good looking to print somethby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
have no idea on the spec of the folgertech motor, it doesn't give any info on the back nor their website, its from the acrylic frame i3, so it is very old there's virtual no noise from the screw and nut, all the noise you hear is from the motor and the rods and bearings, I'm using delrin anti backlash block, the delrin nut has no sound at all when turning the screw in it some vibration noise frby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
mounted the motors on and tested all axis, the old folgertech nema 17 48mm don't seem to perform anywhere as good as the motech ones, at same current, the motech was able to travel at 200mm/s where as the folgertech skips at 150mm/s the 2 32mm long nema17 was well able to move the big bed up and down with no problem, it has a fair bit of weight as Im using a 10mm thick 500 x 500 acrylic plateby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
cut the leadscrews today, some effort to cut them by hand, need a break, all ready to go for electronics not sure if I do it tomorrow, want a day off on my birthday, but then again, it can be a great birthday to have it up and running boards are tested and ran very well, all set to plug and play.... I might just do it tomorrow if not I will on sundayby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Lead Screw usage for X and Y axes - 8 years ago
build volume 480mm x 480mm x 600mm soon to be aliveby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
try using abs juice and turn off the bed, not sure if it matters on other build plate material but it works well for me on acrylic plateby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
heat bed does have a big effect on print quality, I have stopped using heatbed for the last 3 months I print pla on acrylic plate and abs juice on the plate with no heat bed, all good I see a quality improvement especially on lower layersby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Inconsistent Z ribbing/banding - 8 years ago
I have 7 spools of 1kg pla, 2 purple, 1 pink, 1 red, 1 black, 1 blue and 1 white the white was the worst and the blue is like yours, the rest were perfect, all using same print settings, only print speed below 30mm/s will show improvements, it didn't even matter what hotend I use, I have both genuine e3d hotends and chinese knock off, have you tried any other filaments? I was even able to prinby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Is my RAMPS board faulty? - 8 years ago
did you check if the stepper drivers are giving enough current, you can either test it with a multi meter or just turn the pot clockwise little bit at a time.by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Printing on acrylic - 8 years ago
QuotePointedstick The parts are a bit more difficult to remove than it is from tape, and a metal spatula or paint scraper is often needed. Once you have a bit of leverage under a corner, the whole part will often pop off just like with tape though. And IMHO the rewards are evident: That's with no heated bed and no consumable tape. Here's a shot of a MendelMax starting a plate of other Mendeby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Chimera Hotend ooze - 8 years ago
reducing temp on switch increases print time too much, I increase firmware retract to 100mm at 50mm/s it almost eliminated the ooze, might try faster retract againby deaconfrost - Printing
Chimera Hotend ooze - 8 years ago
has anyone found a way to prevent the ooze from sticking to the model with a chimera? so far I've managed to minimized the mess to almost a clean print by increasing the retraction speed to 50mm/s at 16mm retraction at 185c, any lower on temp I end up with under extrusion unless maybe I lower the print speed, which isn't ideal ooze is not really a solution to this as it mostly get dragged overby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: I have to heat the bed n nozzle manually Everytime before printing - 8 years ago
put these in your custom gcode, stat gcode {IF_BED}M190 S{BED} {IF_EXT0}M104 T0 S{TEMP0} {IF_EXT0}M109 T0 S{TEMP0}by deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Why is my printing like this? - 8 years ago
is it custom start gcode? I don't know anything about your printer, but if its the matter of custom start code, you can always copy and paste them to other slicersby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Why is my printing like this? - 8 years ago
thats a big improvement. download repetier host and install it with sli3er and cura, they both give you option to print infill first, should work we any FDM printer. what printer do you haveby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: What is happening to my corners? - 8 years ago
thats weird, anyway I too have a folger crap prusa i3 as OP and I also use a genuine e3d v6 hotend, the difference is I use gear extruder on bowden and OP has a flexi driveby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: Why is my printing like this? - 8 years ago
infill first also helps for small objectby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: What is happening to my corners? - 8 years ago
is it not ABS cools too quickly it curls upward tmorris9, the quicker I cool my PLA print the better they come out, but abs I print with no fan most of the time, the slower they cool the betterby deaconfrost - Printing
Re: What is happening to my corners? - 8 years ago
have you try lower bed temp? I haven't try a speed test again yet but I will when I have my project done in a week or so, this is as good as I get with whatever actual speed that was printing at, but I think bed temp has something to do with it, snce a hot bed would be keeping the pla soft, more chance of it changing shape at speed, I am now printing with no heated bed, and I checked with my fiby deaconfrost - Printing