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Printing issues ...
Re: LCD smart controller board issue - 9 years ago
Quotestephenrc The cables are too long or running next to something electrically noisy. That makes sense that that could do it, but why would it just now (after almost a year) start doing it? The cables are the ones that came with it, I didn't add any extensions. I could maybe add a ferrite bead around the cables??? But I also haven't changed any cable routing since I first set it up. Weird. thby koenejet - Reprappers
LCD smart controller board issue - 9 years ago
I have been using this controller board for almost a year now, and all of sudden it will randomly during a print just show what looks like hieroglyphics. The printer keeps running, but the display is just useless at that point. Has anyone else experienced this? What could cause this? Thanks,by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
For me, I don't really care much about exact accuracy for x and y home. If it stops in the corner, it's close enough to home for me. I have noticed though, that with the mechanical end stop, the z home isn't perfectly the same every time and I find myself leveling the bed more often than I should have to. I read that this is a common problem, and an optical end stop would be better. The parts Iby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
One other thing. My next project is to replace the z axis end stop with an optical stop. I will need to invert the end stops input. I think I have an idea of how to do it, but if someone could tell me specifically how, so I don't screw something up, would be great. Thanks againby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
I am using Repetier. I actually did stumble across the page last night within Repetier that allows me to do just as you said. After much trial and error, I got it to extrude fairly close to the correct amount. I'll do a print tonight and see how it looks. Thanks again for everyone's input.by koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
Maybe I should have started out by stating that I am a little bit computer challenged. I may not be using the correct wording when describing my problem. I'll try to clarify. Since I changed from a direct drive extruder to a geared extruder, I have to change the steps per mm. I'm using Repetier host manual controls to command a 10mm extrusion. I measure how much it extruded, and I get about 14mby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
When i first got the machine, I set it up with no problems. I dont know when I could have changed any EEPROM settings. As far as I can remember Im doing it the same way I have in the past. Just to clarify one thing though. When I change the steps per mm using the controller mounted to the printer, that does 'override' the value in the configuration h file, correct? So it shoukd work fine the wayby koenejet - Reprappers
trouble adjusting E steps per mm - 9 years ago
Hello, I need help again. So I replaced the clone extruder on my FolgerTech prusa i3 with a geared extruder using an e3d V6 (and not a clone either). I am very pleased with the new set up. Some of you may remember I had to water cool my old extruder or it wouldn't print any more than 4 hours. Anyhow, I'm trying to set up the E steps per mm and I'm having much difficulty with this simple task. Doby koenejet - Reprappers
Re: netfab cloud help - 9 years ago
Well, never mind. It worked today. I guess the service was down temporarily.by koenejet - General
netfab cloud help - 9 years ago
Hello, for several months now I have been using Microsoft Model Repair / Netfab cloud repair service, and for the past two days I'm getting an upload error message whenever I try to upload a file for it to fix. Is the site down? Anybody know what the problem is? Thanks, Scottby koenejet - General
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Just a follow up in case any one is wondering. A few posts back I said a print failed. Well I didn't really have much heat sink compound between the copper tube and the cold end, so I applied quite a bit more to make sure the water cooling would be as efficient as possible. Yesterday the printer completed a 14 1/2 hour print without fail. That's the longest it has printed so far and could probabby koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
So a couple of you suggested it could be heat from the extruder motor. It just finished a 2 1/2 hr print and the extruder motor measured 30*c with an infrared temp sensor. I don't think that's hot enough to cause problems, is it?by koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Quotekoenejet Quotecat.farmer I have found that sometimes cold is too cold. a project I am working on ( which is water cooled) would jam at the top of my barrel. The trasistion from hot to cold was so sharp that on retraction the filament would solidify almost instantly, and cause a jam. If that were the case, would the problem show up right away or several hours into the print? back to topicby koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Quotecat.farmer I have found that sometimes cold is too cold. a project I am working on ( which is water cooled) would jam at the top of my barrel. The trasistion from hot to cold was so sharp that on retraction the filament would solidify almost instantly, and cause a jam. If that were the case, would the problem show up right away or several hours into the print? back to topic: I would checby koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Is the heat creeping up through the heat break, or is the motor heating up and causing the problem? Maybe you need to adjust the motor current... That is a good thought, and, I'm not sure. I didn't notice if the motor was real hot or not. The aluminum block that connects to the motor that the threaded rod/heat break attaches too didn't feel warm. And I actually tuned thby koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
I understand our disagreement now. We actually don't disagree, I either didn't use the correct terminology, or you didn't understand my explanation. I'm not trying to transfer heat from the heater block to the heat sink. I was talking about the aluminum block that the heat sink is on. I am NOT putting it between the heater block and heat break. I'm working on the cold end. Trying to keep it cold.by koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Or think of it like this. If you take a piece of metal and heat one end of it, the heat will move toward the other end. Even with a heat break. We need to remove that heat before it causes any problems. Hence the heat sink. For the heat sink to work, the heat needs to be able to flow to it. That's what the thermal compound does. It helps the heat flow to the heat sink. It does not pull the heatby koenejet - Printing
Re: water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
I understand all of that. That is the problem in the first place. The heat is going past the heatbreak. It's doing this because the heat sink and cooling fan are not efficient enough. I'm trying to make it so the heat that migrates up to the cold end gets dissipated quickly so that it doesn't get hot enough to soften the plastic in the cold end. As it was, when the heat worked up the threaded roby koenejet - Printing
water cooled extruder: what do you think? - 9 years ago
Hello, So it seems like when I fix one issue, another one pops up. I just recently wasted a day of work and a few ounces of plastic because the extruder jams after about 4 hours of use. I know what the problem is. It's a poorly designed extruder and the heat eventually works its way up to the cold end. I noticed a few obvious issues: first, the threaded tube just sets into a drilled hole and helby koenejet - Printing
Re: Alcohol and hairspray questions - 9 years ago
QuotePutzer What percent isopropyl alcohol? I use 91 percent with no problem. Same. 91%. Must have been something else. The only thing I can think of is maybe a drop of oil dripped off of one of the x axis rods onto the glass. Oh well, the part printing now seems to be holding ok so far.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Alcohol and hairspray questions - 9 years ago
QuoteQdeathstar I just used suave extra hold and it works great... I've applied it both with the hearted off and on and it seems to work either way... I Great, thanks for the info. I just got back from the store with some. I'll try it on my next print.by koenejet - Printing
Alcohol and hairspray questions - 9 years ago
So let me ask a few questions that may seem dumb, but I'm curious. What is the difference between ethyl alcohol and isopropyl alcohol? I don't need the chemical breakdown, but I was cleaning the bed with ethyl and never had any problems with prints not sticking, I ran out and started using isopropyl, and it's acting like I smeared the glass with oil. Didn't even attempt to stick. It took five reby koenejet - Printing
Re: Over-Extruding - 9 years ago
My last couple of prints look pretty good. Thanks again for the advice.by koenejet - Printing
Re: lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think you have calibration problems. I don't know where the idea of measuring wall thickness came from for calibrating, but it's a bad idea. It is too difficult to measure a single wall thickness accurately and precisely. If there's any Z wobble the wall will measure thicker than the lines that make it up. When you calibrate you want everything set at the base pointby koenejet - Printing
Re: lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
Well it's in the middle of a four hour print, and so far it looks great. Thanks again for your input, Scottby koenejet - Printing
Re: lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
I calibrated the printer according to folgertechs instructions and YouTube. My first prints were ok. Not perfect, but not bad. And then I decided to fix a few issues. First it was over extruding a little bit. I fixed this by measuring the filliment with calipers and tweeking the extrusion multiplier. After that, my test cube had a perfect wall thickness, but a wavy pattern was now showing. I fixeby koenejet - Printing
Re: Over-Extruding - 9 years ago
Hello, I'm having the same issue as you, and would like to try your fix. I just need to ask, when you put in the width of .48, was that under 'Default extrusion width', or 'External perimeter', or both? Or all the perimeters, including infill and top solid infill? Thanks, Scottby koenejet - Printing
Re: lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
I'm using colorfabb. I just put on a new spool. The test cube was from the old spool, and the fan duct is from the new spool, but it's the same stuff from the same supplier. None of my previous prints were perfect, and I just started focussing on fine tuning to get a perfect print, but this looks worse than any print I have ever done. Since the round part of duct looks ok, I think it's pushingby koenejet - Printing
lousy prints, Please help, - 9 years ago
Hello, again, (sorry, but I'm really starting to get discouraged), I had a previous post titles 'wavy lines'. I'm starting a new one because that issue has been resolved, and I was able to print a perfect test cube that I was very happy with. I then decided to reprint my cooling fan duct, and it looks horrible. I'm using the same setting as for the test cube. The duct itself looks ok (the skinby koenejet - Printing