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Printing issues ...
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
So in case any body was wondering, I found the jerk setting in the lcd controller. It was at 20, so I put it at 10. The next print was near perfect. I don't have time tonight to mess with it any more, but I think if I tweak that and the acceleration down a tiny bit more, then I should have a perfect print. Then I can see how much better my larger parts (with 3 perimeters and infill, etc), with tby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
So I tried putting in a value for acceleration. When I hover the cursor over it, it pops up a brief explanation, and said that a value of 9000 usually gives good results. When I read this I realized I didn't fully understand what this is for. I was thinking of something like 20. Anyway, I put in 20 just to see what would happen. I noticed the speed would slow down as it approached the end just beby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I've always wondered if it would be better to replace the smooth bearings. It makes since to me that a belt with teeth on it riding on a smooth surface could cause issues. Could this fix my new problem? Also, I just wanted to add, (in case is wasn't obvious), the part on the left is the wavy part, the part on the right is the new part, which is much smoother than the printed parts that came withby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
Well I fixed the waviness. I'm a little embarrassed to admit what the problem was. But here is what I did. I thought about a couple of comments here about the roundness or wobble of the extruder drive cog. So I took it apart and measured a wobble of .004". I removed the cog, put a shim between the axle and cog at the opposite side of the set screws, and then measured a wobble of .001". Surely tby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I was getting the dimension for wall thickness from the g code in slic3r. That's why I was fine tuning to get the .4mm. The waviness is in both x and y, and is the same in each. And it didn't change when I adjusted the tension. How do I check to see if I'm using micro stepping or not? At the moment, the speed is set to 40mm per sec, with the outer perimeter at 90%. I tried 70, 80, 85, &by koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
so here is where I am now. The first one on the left is the test cube with standard settings. The wall thickness was .3 instead of .4mm. The middle part is the same settings but with an extrusion multiplier of 1.3. So now the wall thickness is .4mm. The third one (right hand one) is printed after setting the filament diameter to 1.765mm. The waviness is more noticeable now, but also more symmetriby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
One other question, On the lcd controller main page, there is a line that states 'FR 100%'. I'm assuming this is minimum feed rate? When and why should this ever be adjusted? What affect does it have? Thanks againby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I did not change the dia settings. I also did not actually measure the diameter by hand either. I'm using color fab, and was told it's the best stuff and won't cause problems. However, I think my next step is to pull out my calipers. I do however, now have a perfect .4mm external wall thickness, and the waviness, is almost gone. Thanks againby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I'm just following what I learned at the university of YouTube. Where you first calibrate the extruder, then do a fine tuning with the multiplier. The g code said the wall thickness should be .4mm, mine was .3mm, so by setting the multiplier to 1.3, should give me a near perfect .4mm.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
The print cooling fan works fine. I do notice a big improvement since I started using it. I reprinted the test cube and it came out near perfect. I then noticed that for some reason, the print speeds were different than what I used for the parts I'm having problems with. Also the wall thickness was too thin. Do I'm changing the speeds to the test cube speeds and adjusting the extrusion multiplieby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I didn't quite understand your first statement. Should the fan blow into the heat sink (like its blowing the heat away from it), or should it be blowing away from the heat sink (like its pulling the heat away from it)? Also, I think the overlap is at 15%. This is the default, I never messed with it. Do you think this is too much? I'm also printing with inner perimeters first. I may try outerby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
The fan is blowing into the heat sink. I assumed this is correct? Or is it supposed to blow away, as in sucking the hot air away from it? It only seems to do it after it's been on for several hours.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
Never mind what I asked about it starting too high. I figured out why. I wasn't thinking about it right.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I guess what I'll do next is relevel the bed, slow down the speed a bit, and reprint the test cube. I'll let you know how it goes.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
Does adjusting the extrusion multiplier change the under extrusion? Or is there another way to do this? When I first calibrated it, I printed a one wall cube and the wall thickness was the same as what the g code said it should be. Wouldn't increasing the extrusion change the wall thickness? If it's starting too high off of the print bed, wouldn't the problem be mostly at the bottom of the printby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
I did all of that when I first built and set it up six weeks ago, and it was pretty much perfect. I guess I should check it again to make sure nothing changed. And those are parts for a project that will be sanded smooth and painted, so it doesn't matter for those parts. I did use a 25mm cube when I calibrated it the first time. My new problem, that just started today is the extruder jamming. Itby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
yea, yea, I knew I need pics, but my POS camera can't take decent close ups, so it took me a while to figure out a way to get good pics loaded here. Hopefully these turn out good enough to show my problem. Keep in mind (I think it's obvious) that I'm new to this. I'm hoping someone can say "I know exactly what your problem is, this is how to fix it...." thanks again, Scottby koenejet - Printing
Re: Wavy lines - 9 years ago
Oh, and just to clarify, I am NOT talking about z wobble. And I also replaced the nozzle itself, and it may just be my imagination , but it may be a little better, but not perfect. Thanks againby koenejet - Printing
Wavy lines - 9 years ago
Hello, I have a problem I can't quite figure out. The sides of the extruded lines are not parrellel. So the lines look a little wavy. It's not real bad, but it just doesn't look good. I'm using the folgertech Prussia i3 aluminum frame. I read somewhere that a geared extruder will fix this. Otherwise you have to print at the perfect speed. If you print too slow, it will make the effect more noticby koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
Well, I have to apologize for wasting all of your time. I found the problem. I'm embarrassed to admit it, but somehow the tip clearance got screwed up. The tip was pressing hard against the glass at home position. So the glass was acting like a blockage. When I was manually extruding, I raised the z axis up a bit. That explains why it worked then. Again, sorry for wasting your time, but thanks anby koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
Hello, Thanks to all with the advice. I did do as imqqmi suggested by entering the gcodes manually in Repetier. This worked fine, with and whithout the bed heated. I do have a question though. What is "G92"? I under stand the others. I entered it before the other commands. But I noticed that when the bed was heated and I didn't enter the G92 E0 command, then the extruder actually went the wrong wby koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
I just had a thought of something I want to try, but need help. I want to move the extruder driver and connector over to the second extruder port (to the left of where it is now) and try it there. What I need help with, is I don't know what to do to make it use the other port. I assume it would be as simple as changing a line in the configuration.h file, but don't know what that would be. Any helby koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
I'm not sure what you mean by either question. I have never specified nor noticed anything in Repetier host to select between relative or absolute coordinates. I just looked for it in Repetier host (briefly) and didn't see anything about that. Also, I have never reset the extruder before. What is meant by reset extruder? I have made several prints in the last couple of months I have had the printby koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
Nothing has changed from the last print that worked since now. I didn't change or adjust anything between Sunday's print to Monday's failure. It's not stuck or jammed or clogged. It just does nothing when I try to print, but works perfect when I command it to extrude using manual mode in Repetier host. I did try turning up the pot on the driver, but that didn't help.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
So I reloaded the RAMPS firmware, and no change. So I know the motor, wires, driver, and firmware are good. I think I need a new RAMPS. Does anyone else agree with this? thanks,by koenejet - Printing
Extruder stopped getting G-code? Please help! - 9 years ago
So I have been printing perfectly fine now with my FolgerTech Prusa I3 with aluminum frame, for a couple months. This past Sunday it printed a part perfectly fine, and then I started another print on Monday, and the extruder didn't work. I noticed a knocking noise, like it was trying to work, and then that stopped. Every time I started a print, it would extrude about 10mm or less, and then stop.by koenejet - Printing
Re: Folgertech printing backward - 9 years ago
Thanks for the info. I have already moved the end stop though, and it has been working perfectly. For me that was easier that trying to figure out software and wire changes. I am curious though, when you first got yours built, was it printing inverted? I assume it was, that's why you had to make the changes as mentioned above. Why did they put the end stop on the right side? Wouldn't it have madby koenejet - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: Folgertech printing backward - 9 years ago
Thanks, I tried all of that and the only thing that works is to move the end stop. So I guess I'll do that. It just weird that I have to change the way it was designed and it's weird it seems like nobody else has this problem. And it's weird that it was designed with the end stop where it was, and they told me it's supposed to be on the right side. But it doesn't work there. And nobody knows why.by koenejet - Prusa i3 and variants
Folgertech printing backward - 9 years ago
So I got my first printer, and decided on the Folgertech prusa i3 aluminum frame. I had issues getting the x axis to move and home correctly. I got help on this forum for that, so thanks all who helped. I thought all was well until I printed a part that was not symmetricle, and realized that it printed inverted about the x axis. To me the problem is obvious. The printer homes at front right (tby koenejet - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: X-Axis not homing - 9 years ago
Ok so let me ask all of you who helped me out so far, who has the folgertech with the aluminum frame. Are your parts printing backward? Repetier host is set up assuming that home is left front. The machine homes at right front. When I print a part that is not symmetricle, it comes out inverted an the x axis. I could either load my print and chose to print it inverted, or put the end stop on theby koenejet - Prusa i3 and variants