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Printing issues ...
My suggestion is to run a dummy bowden tube, loosely, from your spool to your hotend. Then, fix the bowden tube to the frame and to the extruder. This should alleviate your problems with the tension affecting a print, no?
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n8bot
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Mechanics
Quoteimqqmi
I usually prepare 2D drawings in Illustrator, import the eps into Lightwave 3D and use extrude and boolean functions to make the 2D into a 3D object. Using Illustrator is much faster for lining up stuff and get the correct measurements. This works very well for me. I also know how to use inventor, which is great for herring bone gears for example.
That sounds pretty cumbersome. You a
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n8bot
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General
It's not very obvious how that mechanism would work, can you explain it for us please?
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n8bot
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General
I've seen vacuum chambers with silicone heat pads at the bottom, this would be great for dehydrating filament. Just make sure the silicone pad is run with a controller of some kind, ideally with a PID algorithm.
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n8bot
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Developers
You may have to invert the direction of the two towers that move down in the firmware, recompile, and reupload.
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n8bot
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General
I love the look of all that printed cable chain. I'd make a pile of it and swim in it like scrooge mcduck.
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n8bot
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CoreXY Machines
QuoteDaGameFace
HA! nice photoshops, no way thats fdm, worth a laugh though..
on a serious note, DAMN, its like the layers dont even exist. Nice machine and nice tuning
Haha, thanks. There are layer defects that are quite obvious at points, which I'm trying to alleviate by designing an entirely new printer. This one isn't good enough for me (only half joking).
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n8bot
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General
I just finished a second print of this:
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n8bot
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General
Okay, so you should have said it's a knockoff... ie nothing like the real one. Telling us you have an e3d v6, when you don't, is fairly useless.
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n8bot
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Reprappers
Haha, you're right, I meant my extrusion system. I do lubricate my bearings.
I think if you had no oil in your extrusion system, but it worked properly, the layer adhesion would be even better. It's just a guess, but I can't see how adding oil would help the adhesion, it simply helped the extrusion.
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n8bot
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Printing
Oh, right I guess I could have guessed that. I don't have experience with the 3mm e3d hotend, but it is specifically a different product. Are you trying to use the 1.75mm hotend with 3mm filament?
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n8bot
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Reprappers
For my extruder I'm running 2400 mm/s/s acceleration, with 120 mm/min (2 mm/s) jerk rate. It does look like you have it working pretty well again.
Electricity is weird.
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n8bot
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General
The problem with a time machine is not the hardware, but we don''t have the software to run it! (Chicken or the egg?)
The problem DEFINITELY is the hardware. Show me any hardware capable of full colour (as in, reproduce a photograph full colour) FDM. There is none.
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n8bot
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Mechanics
I have printed for thousands of hours with PLA, without ever adding a drop of oil or other lubricant to my system. It doesn't seem like something a well-made system would need. In fact, it seems like it could cause problems with bed/layer adhesion, more than anything.
Are you interested in solving the problem, or are you happy just applying oil to your system?
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n8bot
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Printing
You don't state what hotend you are using, so how are we supposed to help you?
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n8bot
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Reprappers
"Bed leveling itself" sounds like the 3 point (3 screw) bed leveling that some want to implement soon. Is that gonna be a problem?
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n8bot
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General
QuoteFloyd
Honestly out of all the buttons, I only use "FIT" and "ISO"
I was trained using the "puck" version that only has two buttons and I loved it. Simple and only $100
With about 11 years with Solidworks I couldn't be happier with it. For designing its bar non the best IMO.
I want the puck one! The others are too big, and I don't wanna get too used to all those fancy buttons I won't have an
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n8bot
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General
I'm finishing up a 4 day print through a e3d v6 (0.4 mm nozzle) with PLA. I print for weeks straight with PLA, never a problem.
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n8bot
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General
I found the largest improvement in my retraction (for a direct drive extruder, nema 11 with 5:1 planetary going into an e3d v6) by slowing the retraction speed down to 5 mm/s. Actually, I determined at what speed my extruder could extrude an unlimited length of filament into free air (through the nozzle) without skipping, and I used that as my retraction speed. I use a length of between 0.2-0.4mm
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n8bot
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General
Fusion 360 for me. If you aren't scared of cloud based design (paranoid people get scared) it is perfect.
Also, zbrush is great for a few specific things. Namely, it handles high-polygon 3d scan meshes very well, for modification or general manipulation. I wish the interface was more intuitive, but it gets okay after you use it for a while.
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n8bot
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General
Quotefrankvdh
Quoten8bot
How exactly does gcode not serve 3d printing well? I cannot think of a single limitation.
If I have a Diamond mixing nozzle, how can I specify that I want the colour proportions to vary with X & Y? I know I can use something like to post-process, but that's a band-aid.
with g-code? I don't understand exactly what you mean by "vary with X & Y," but the diamond h
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n8bot
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General
Quotefrankvdh
...Gcode after all was designed for CNC machines, and nowadays doesn't meet the requirements of 3D printing very well...
How exactly does gcode not serve 3d printing well? I cannot think of a single limitation.
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n8bot
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General
Quoteunromeo21
Did some more tests, I can confirm that skipped steps only happen when the M572 is used. I have now moved to direct extrusion and given up on bowden tube, so I don't think I am going to need this feature at this moment, but the second extruder might be installed with bowden, so... would be nice if the bug gets fixed.
Thanks
m572 works great for direct drive extruders as well, so
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n8bot
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Duet
The thud noise and a skip is exactly what happens for me, and the exact same gcode works flawlessly without m572. I was, however, using a much much much smaller value for m572, but also I have no bowden tube so maybe it's related to the relationship between retraction distance and m572 value.
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n8bot
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Duet
QuoteJamesK
Holy expletive! I pulled up the image full res and I can barely see the layers. The pores in the skin on the other hand are well defined. I wouldn't have recognized that as fdm, nor have believed it was possible. Was there any surface finishing post-print?
All I did was break away the support material from the ears, not even a little bit of surface clean up, this is directly off the
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n8bot
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Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Before I knew better I designed this:
and this:
This is where I finished, before switching to linear guides:
The last one was far better than the other designs.
Only that last one does any attempt at locating the bearing, so of course it's the best one.
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n8bot
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General
The real answer, then, is for the controller to generate its own gcode. 2d desktop printers have drivers that "slice" the document themselves, with a myriad of options available that are specific to the machine. Is that not the way to achieve "portability"?
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n8bot
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Bearings/bushings on guide rails require precise fit to work properly. You can't adjust zip ties to provide precise fit. Zip ties are the duct tape of the 3D printing world. Use zip ties for their intended purpose- bundling wires. Use screws and bolts for precise mechanical attachments/adjustments.
I do see your point, but an important aspect is locating the bearing
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n8bot
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
Quoten8bot
QuoteMikk36
One flaw that I see with your design is that as you tighten the X belt you will put a constant sideways (tilting) load on the X axis and with that on the Y movement system creating additional resistance and wear.
This could be mitigated by having the Y motor also drive the left side of the X axis (through a shaft, for example, think Ultimaker) or having anothe
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n8bot
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CoreXY Machines