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Printing issues ...
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Also remember not all "Prusa I3" frames are to Prusa's I3 standard. For instance on Geeetech's printers, the z-axis smooth rods and threaded rods are further apart than on Prusa's I3 standard. Some manufacturers' "Prusa I3" printers look nothing like a real Prusa I3. The P3Steel does maintain Prusa's I3 standard, but I do not know whether it will work with the MK2.
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Pele:
Can you send pictures of your models after you make adjustments?
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
Even if you go to a different board you may still have the same problem. The cause of MOSFETS getting too hot is that too much current is going through them. Heat beds draw a lot of current. From what I can find on the internet, the heated bed circuit is only rated at 11A. 11A X 12V = 132W. Your heat bed runs at 200W which is an overload. Even if you put in a MOSFET that is rated for higher c
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
The type of Thermistor I showed is the one you need for the settings I provided. If yours look different, replace them with ones similar to the ones shown.
Another thing that can cause a MAXTEMP error is a dead short either at the tip of your thermistor (defective thermistor) at the terminal connectors or in your board (defective board). Change out your thermistors first, they are the cheapest
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
I have had problems with my bed heaters burning out my RAMPS Boards. What I did to prevent that was to get a Keenovo 110V (for USA Voltage) See:
This one shown is for a 230 volt System (for European voltage), but I asked the nice people from Keenovo for a 110V heater pad identical with this one and and they made me one at no extra charge. They took about two weeks before they sent the custom
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have plastic X-axis parts. Geeetech makes metal ones to replace the plastic ones making your carrier and axis ends much sturdier. See:
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They also make an aluminum frame upgrade for your printer, but since it does not have side supports on the XZ frame like the P3Steel has and side supports for the Z Motor Fixed Plate I do not know haw sturdy this kit really is. See:
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
It may be that the plastic is not sticking to your bed. Have you tried blue painter's tape on you bed, glue stick or both?
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
Right now I suggest that if you want a MK2 you buy the real deal. The firmware does not seem to be editable so anything you may do differently than Prusa can not be compensated by the firmware. Besides you are rewarding Prusa for his hard work.
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Dust:
Thank you for the info. Note taken. I removed that section from my post. I have read a lot about the MK2 but I have not seen one yet. Still my main point is that there are no guarantees that mjdonovan410 can make a Prusa MK2 from an original standard Prusa I3 frame. He needs to contact Prusa Customer Support.
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
We were all newbies once. Many of us in the reprap world have similar stories. Mine was I bought the cheapest printer available and did not even get what I paid for. Many parts came dead on arrival and when I finally got it going the prints were awful. I replaced my wooden frame with a P3Steel and replaced original parts as they failed. In time I had a damn good printer with none of the original
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Lymphomaniac1
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Prusa i3 and variants
Use a feeler gauge to set the height of your print nozzle rather than a sheet of paper. Remove the 0.10 mm gauge from the set before using it. You can get one of these from most automotive parts stores.
Check your head. Is it loose? If it is moving in directions it is not supposed to, tighten or replace parts that cause unwanted movement.
Check your Y-axis. Is it loose? Can your platfo
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
The MAXTEMP error is a fail safe programmed in Marlin to shut down the printer should the thermistor become detached from the board or if the thermistor wire breaks (which does happen over time). When the themistor is detached the board registers a value of 0oC. The printer will continue to heat until 0oC equals your set temperature which will never happen, thus it will heat until your ceramic h
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
You can solder the 4 pin connectors side of these wires to your wires. These wires are already color coded so making a mistake is avoided. They are also wrapped to help prevent rat nesting of wires.
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
6mm should be more than enough. Look at a diagram of a P3Steel Frame. It has sides on the frame to add rigidity. Does your frame have similar sides? If not you may want to add some.
I would still make and use z-axis threaded rod isolators as I mentioned before.
Are your z-axis smooth rods in tight without any give in any direction. If they are loose tighten them up with epoxy or something el
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
If you have a steel frame, make sure all screws are tight.
If you have weak materials making up your X-axis you can try using all steel parts for your X-axis as seen below:
The carriage in this setup is a little heavy, a may not be optimal for your use.
I use this item on my Prusa I3s:
I had to widen the hole around where the threaded rod goes and use an isolator to get this to work with
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
Supposedly the latest and greatest Prusa I3 is the Prusa I3 MK2 by Prusa . I have not seen one myself, but it got a lot of praise in reviews. It goes for $699.99 US and has a waiting list of 5-6weeks.
I, myself, have four homemade Prusa I3s built on P3Steel frames (Versions 2.x and 4) using Iduino (Geeetech's version) Mega2560 boards and Geeetech Ramps RAMPS 1.4 boards and various printer hea
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
I do not understand what you want to do. Could you be more specific? Could you tell us what "this" is?
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
Lets go back to the tick-tick sound. Could that be your stepper motor in your extruder skipping steps. Did you ever tune your stepper motors. The stepper drivers are rarely set to the proper amperage since each brand and model of motor is different. You need to find the MAX amperage for your motor. It may be in your instructions or you may have to contact the manufacturer. If you are using
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
Is this a Geeetech Printer? How thick is the metal in the frame? Are all the screws tight? Do you see any contortion of the frame while the head goes up and down the z-axis especially around the z-axis stepper motor mount? Are you using any type of constraint at the top of your threaded rod to keep it from moving laterally? See and and as examples. If you do, get rid of them. Most thread
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
What material is your frame made out of? Wood? Cheap Plastic? Try mounting your components on a P3Steel frame. Checkout "P3Steel" in the Wiki. P3Steel frames cost about $120 US and can be bought either on eBay or from the manufacturers listed in the wiki.
Are you trying to use some type of z-axis constraint? Don't!!!!! They only make matters worse.
Using Z-axis isolators like the one y
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Lymphomaniac1
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Printing
First of all I do not recommend wood frames. They often bend and twist and give you z-wobble and other artifacts. If you can afford it get a P3Steel frame. Look up P3Steel on the Wiki and you can find anything you need for such a build. My original frame was wooden, gave me all sorts of problems and finally broke. I quickly upgraded to P3Steel and my problems disappeared.
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
You may want to print with a larger diameter nozzle (0.5mm or larger).
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
Le_Nya:
I think going to a Mega 2560/Ramps 1.4 setup is probably your best bet. It can be inexpensive (under $20US) and is a standard setup. The price of buying components to repair your MKS board might cost more than buying the a Mega2560/RAMPS 1.4 setup and you still might not fix the actual problem. Also, with the Mega 2560/RAMPS 1.4 setup, in time, you can also upgrade to DRV8825 stepper
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
This is the reason I always recommend people maintain a repair kit containing a lot of spare parts. Things I keep in my kit include all electronics including spare power supply, spare boards, spare lcd, spare thermisisters, spare ceramic heaters, spare bed heater and spools of wires. Any of these parts can burn out or break, leaving you waiting for replacement parts. I also have a divider box
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
Danuk:
Two thing here:
1) Your printer, being a Pusa I3 is not enclosed. You say that the room temperature is cold. A cold room can wreak havoc on a Prusa I3 unless it is in a heated enclosure. A heated enclosure may help here.
2) Your extruder temperature is set too low. PLA has a melting temperature between 180°C to 220°C. ABS has a working temperature of around 230°C. Your extrude
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
orictosh:
Thanks for the heads up!!! Right Tom wrong video. I corrected the original post to reflect the right video. By the way, Tom Sanladerer has a series of videos on anything and everything to do with 3d printing. They are great.
Stuart
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
Denuk:
You say that you are using a Mega2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Board and your version of Marlin is
version 1.0.2 Make sure you edit the configuration.h file in Marlin. To see how this is done see . Your board in version 1.0.2 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB . (Yes RAMPS_13 is right since it covers both RAMPS 1.3 and RAMPS 1.4.) The default in version 1.0.2 is for the Ultimaker board. I
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Lymphomaniac1
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Reprappers
A real nice way to clean a nozzle is to place the nozzle in a stainless steel container dedicated to this purpose. Do not use your wife's pretty stainless steel dish and expect to live....this process will discolor the stainless steel. I use an ashtray I bought for $1.50 on eBay. I place the nozzle in the container 0n the bottom of a self cleaning over (rember to take out the racks). Turn to
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Lymphomaniac1
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General
Are you trying to use configuration.h from a new version of marlin with an old version? That will never work. The best thing to do is to download the latest version of marlin and configure it to your printer. If you do not know how to configure your Marlin see the following link: . The latest version of Marlin can be found at .
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Lymphomaniac1
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General
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