Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 31 — 60 of 80
Le_Nya:
The MKS-Base board is basically a Mega 2560 board, Ramps 1.4 board and four A4988 stepper drivers put on one board. Makerbase, the maker of the original MKS boards suggest just using firmware for the Mega 2560 board and Ramps 1.4 board. The latest version of Marlin is version 1.1.0-RC7 and could be found on . Make sure you edit the configuration.h file. To see how this is done s
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Just an update. I received my v4 p3steel from m.rut3d. Everything looks good.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Keep in mind the issue of weight. The more weight you put on rapidly moving parts, i.e. the carriage, the more the vibration you get on the machine and the rougher the surfaces on your model. The rougher the surfaces on your model the lower the resolution.
The SC series seem to be heavy. There are a lot of light weight ways to mount LM series to your carriage. Many of these are found on Thi
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Sungod3k,
Thank you very much for your response.
In Tom Sanladerer's Guide [ ], in which he uses a two year old version of Marlin, he shows two places where the #define ENSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN are commented out. In one of the places this definition is already commented out. In the RC7 I only see one occurrence of this definition and it is already commented out. Do I need to worry about any other o
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
On e-Bay you can purchase P3Steel Prusa I3 frames by themselves or with just rods or the whole printer. Just search "P3Steel". This is usually a lot cheaper than sending plans to somebody to laser-cut from plans. On e-Bay I have used Orballo Printing (Spain ), Pilvytis (Lithuania), and Printo3d (Poland ). I had no problems with any of these companies and their work was good.
I am have ordere
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I am trying to install a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN on my Z-axis so I can do autoleveling on my generic Prusa I3 printer. I am running Marlin 1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016 firmware on my printer. I have watched Thomas Sanladerer's youtube presentation on autoleveling but his demonstration uses an earlier version of Marlin which has gotten me confused while I have tried to con
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Did your Meltzi have the Firmware loaded to start with? Try reloading the firmware before buying anything. You should be able to download the firmware from the manufacturer with all changes for your specific printer already. If you can not, download Marlin from:
To set up marlin for your specific printer go to the following youtube tutorial by Thomas Sanladerer (He does a great job explaini
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Also check gear in extruder for wear or contamination with filament shavings.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
IMBoring25:
Thanks for your response.
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I am thinking of using my Rumba Board with my Diamond head on a Prusa I3. In addition to the three extruders, I intend to use 2 Z-axis motors. How do I hook up the two z-axis motors. My guess is that I twist my two black wires together, my two green wires together, my two red wires together and my two blue wires together, then insert each twisted wire pair into the appropriate terminal. Am I
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
For setting up your Marlin firmware check this youtube video:
This will give you a start point for most of your settings including acceleration and jerk.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Are your motors generic or name brand? Some generic motors may be built cheaply and may not have as many windings or may have cheap weak magnets, thus a cheap 40mm motor may not have the strength of a more expensive 34mm motor. Always buy motors where you know the holding torque and the rated current. If they do not advertise this information on their website, they do not want you to know. I als
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
In order to prevent water vapor bubbles, place your filament in a desiccator. This can easily be made by putting your filament in an airtight container and adding dry packs such as the ones found on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Dry-Packs-Silica-Desiccant-40gm/dp/B006L882NM/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468610787&sr=8-9&keywords=silica+gel). This will suck the water off your filament bec
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
The Rumba board is basically a combination of the Mega2560 and RAMPS 1.4 board with the added feature of controlling 3 extruders. My understanding is that RepRap Firmware is not meant to run on Mega2560-based boards instead on ARM based boards.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Thanks for the information. It is very interesting and may get me started. I guess I will need to learn OpenSCAD
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
This may be a dumb question, but I am just beginning with 3 color printing. How do you make the .amf file? What software do I need?
Thanks,
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
So you are manually entering g-code for each color change?
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I am trying to use Repetier firmware. It allows for color mixing.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Look what I made!
I purchased a Diamond head recently. I switched my firmware to Repetier, making the appropriate adjustments to use such a head with a RUMBA board. Now I am ready to design a print where I can mix colors. How do I do this?
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Once your firmware is programmed into your computer, it should not change. Occasionally, you may get an electrical spike or other anomaly that can cause your firmware to be corrupted.
Do you have power coming out of your two pin sets?
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I have on occasion seen thermistors go bad, butI have never seen both thermistors go bad at once.
Did you check your Marlin firmware. If you have the typical NTC 100k thermistor and you have only one extruder your settings in configuration.h should look like this:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1
If you are set up for the wrong
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Can your extruder gear be crudded up with shavings from your filament? Can it be worn? Is the tension right? Is your bearing rolling smoothly?
The atomic pull method of cleaning out your nozzle often works but sometimes it does not. Have you tried to clean your nozzle with acetone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) available in the paint section of Home Depot or Lowes? If that does not work try bur
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
<3) has anybody had any issues with cheap mechanical parts off ebay/ali express, mainly bearings, nema motors and the controller boards for said motors? >
Yes, I have occasionally received poor parts from e-bay. Different vendors sell the same parts at a range of prices, so the same part may range from $1 to $10 from different vendors. Just because you spend more money does not mean you a
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I use PETG almost exclusively. Attached is my configuration that I use with SLIC3R. I hope this helps you. My setup uses a Geeetech MK8 printhead and an aluminum build plate with a Keenovo silicone heater on the bottom. I put blue painter's tape on the plate then smear glue stick on the tape. I get great results.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
drmaestro:
I am glad that you diagnosed your problem, but for those with similar problems I can give examples of my experience. In the past I have had similar problems of the heat block temperature jumping around and eventually causing a MAX_TEMP situation. As in your case I have often found a faulty thermistor to be the problem and remedied by replacement of affected thermistor. (I always ha
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
The Prusa I3 is a solid design, but many kits are not so solid. Some cheap kits have plastic or wooden frames. I would stay away from these. They may contort to the strains caused by imperfections in your threaded rod and lead to artifacts such as z-wobble. Instead, opt for kits which have metal frames. Some kits are made of aluminum frames and other kits are based on the P3Steel frame. The
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Thanks everybody for your input. Dichloro Methane is not something I would want in my house nor is it easy to get. As drmeistro has stated heating the nozzles with a propane torch sometimes closes off the orifice in the nozzle. I think I came up with the perfect method. I bought a stainless steel container, in this case an $1 ashtray off of eBay, and put my nozzles in it. I then put everythi
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
I saw a commercial one on television recently large enough to make a chair. It took over a week to make the chair.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
DC42:
Let's do the math. The heater draws 300W. 12V X 40A = 480 VA or W. A SSR-40DD should handle 300W.
laco has to deal with what he has, a 300W bed heater (I hope it is rated for 12V if he has a 12V power supply), a 12V power supply, and a SSR-40DD. He may get a drop in voltage, but it is what he has and so his heat bed may take a little longer to heat up. When I built my printer, I use
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Deciding to use a P3Steel frame is a great decision. It is a SOLID frame.
Attached is a file containing a packing list of parts needed to build a typical Prusa I3 printer. It is from Geeetech, but I am by no means pushing this unit in that it has a plastic frame and I only recommend units with solid metal frames. With the exception of building the frame itself, building a unit on a P3Steel fr
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Page 2 of 3
Pages: 123