Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Page 3 of 3
Pages: 123
Results 61 — 80 of 80
I am assuming you want to hook up your bed heater to the SSR-40DD. This is very simple. I put together a very simple schematic which is attached. After wiring your SSR-40DD to your bed heater and the heater terminals on your RAMPS Controller, make sure that your PID is turned off in your firmware. DO NOT HOOK UP YOUR SSR-40DD TO YOUR CERAMIC HEATER IN YOUR HOTEND. If you do, you will not get t
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Maybe the attached file will help
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
I originally bought a CTC Euroway, a POS I built as a kit which used a plywood frame. I got so frustrated with this machine. The first GT2560 clone board and LCD controller were DOA and one of the thermistors did not provide good readings. The dealer I bought the unit from sent me another GT2560 clone board and it burnt out within a month. Later the heat bed burnt out and the printed print hea
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Govahnator:
Your links are not working, please try again.
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
I typically have spare parts laying around such as LCD displays, Mega 2560 boards, RAMPS Boards, heaters, thermisters, etc. Most of these things are cheap and changing suspected bad parts with known good ones is sometimes the easiest way to troubleshoot a system.
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Thought many put down Prusa I3 units, there are a lot of very good ones. The cheap ones like my CTC Euroway which was made with a wooden frame, tend to be very flimsy, which leads to z-axis wobble and other artifacts. I highly suggest one that has a metal frame such as a Geeetech Aluminum Prusa I3 3D Printer kit. If you are not put off by building one yourself from a kit, I say go for it. Tha
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Is this an updated CTC Euroway? The advertisement looks very similar to CTC's advertisement on eBay of the Euroway including the eagle. If it is a CTC Euroway or any CTC printer, stay away. My Euroway went bad piece by piece. It came with a bad GT2560 clone, thermistor, and LCD display. The company that sold it to me sent me another GT2560 clone board and it burnt out along with the heater
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
Has anybody figured out how to clean PETG from Nozzles. In the past I got nozzles for my MK8 for $0.34 and I just threw them away when they got clogged. I am now thinking about getting a diamond, three in one out, nozzle. At $20 a nozzle throwing them away can become expensive fast. ABS and PLA dissolve in MEK and acetone, but PETG, which is my filament of choice, is impervious to solvents. A
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
I can only advise you based on my experience. About 6 months ago I bought a cheap in price wooden framed, Prusa I3 CTC Euroway Printer. This printer turned out to be expensive garbage. I had BIG problems with z-axis wobble. If you watched the machine while the z-axis threaded rods turned you could see the wood contort up and down, back and forth. I tried everything on the forums to try to fi
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
General
The best way I have found to troubleshoot individual parts is to keep spare parts on hand and replace suspected parts with the spares. Most parts are relatively cheap. This keeps me from banging my head against the wall while troubleshooting and I always have replacement parts on hand so you do not have to wait for parts to be shipped from China.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I am printing a box that is 52mm high in PETG. I am printing the first layer at 250°C for the heat block and 120°C for the bed then lowering the heat to 230°C for the heat block and 65°C for the bed. I am printing at 100% infill. This has worked well for me up to this time, but I have only been making flat models.
With this box I kept my old settings. The bottom printed well, but after the
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
Has anybody gotten the MKS TFT28 touchscreen to work with a RAMPS 1.4 Board?
I purchased a MKS TFT28 touchscreen to work with my Prusa I3 using a Mega 2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Shield. The advertisement says that it works with a RAMPS 1.4 shield. The thing came with no firmware updates and almost no instructions. The only instructions the vendor gave me was to hook the MKS TFT28 to the AUX1
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
With the fact that you changed the thermistor and still get the high reading, unless your second thermistor came from the same lot as the first, your thermistor is probably not your problem. If you got them from the same source, try a different source. Your problem is probably your sensor shield. In the case you are using a Mega 2560, your sensor shield is included in your attached RAMPS 1.4 sh
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Everyone,
Thanks. If it works for you, it will work for me. I will try some of these ideas until I can get the PETG running.
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
Thanks everyone. I am going to try your suggestions when my new bed heater comes in. My old one burnt out.
Stuart
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
Everyone says that PETG is sooooo easy to use. Well I at my wits end. I got 3 rolls of PETG from 3 different manufacturers and they all do the same thing. With each new roll I used a new hot end with a new nozzle and the same thing happens with each. The extruded PETG whips around after coming out of the nozzle and the loose end sticks to the nozzle either making a loop or a blob. I would thin
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
Thank you everyone. Looks like everyone is right. This POS needs a lot of rework. First of all the wooden frame is very flimsy. I am replacing it with a P3STEEL galvanized steel frame. The z-axis threaded rods do not lay perfectly concentric in the flex coupler between the z-axis rods and the motor. I am going to have to put in some type of filler (tape around the rods, plastic spacer or somet
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
I am a beginner to the world of 3D printing. I have a cheap DIY Reprap Prusa I3 made with a wooden frame. I use Slic3r as my slicing software. I have tried Cura, but it has a tendency to terminate my print prematurely.
My problem is that when I try to print, my prints have stratifications all around them. This makes my prints look ugly and reduces the detail on the prints. Attached is a photo
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Printing
Awdorrin
Thanks. If it works for you, it will work for me.
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
I have the same YB2004D LCD display. I am building a Reprap Prusa I3. I have to connect the two cables attached to this display to my motherboard. The motherboard is well marked for LCD display and SD Card, but the back of the display has connectors marked EXP1 (top) and Exp2 (bottom). Could someone please let me know which of the two connectors is for the LCD display and which is for the SD
by
Lymphomaniac1
-
Reprappers
Page 3 of 3
Pages: 123