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Printing issues ...
The gears seem to move OK so as O_lampe says. Have a look at the hobbed bolt including that it is concentric to the drive gear no filament jammed in the teeth. Also check the tensioning wheel is concentric. Also the filament is running in the groove if it has one.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Can you provide a picture of the machine?
This looks like a Bowden system but the tube seems short.
Im assuming the RHS of the picture is the hot end which shows about 8mm of melted filament so as DD says check you retraction.
If this is the length of the tube it may be too short or not have enough bend to allow for good flow at certain positions.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
5V !!!! End stops normally read 12V.
Are you getting 12v to the board?
You say there is a problem with the comms so you are working with the display controls only but is that working with the PSU or only when connected to a computer.
If it only works when connected to a computer you may just be getting 5V via the USB and nothing from the PSU.
Its has been known for the supplied document to be wr
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
How old is the filament?
I read on the web and have some experience that the water absorption can make it stiff and brittle. That would make it more prone to striping.
I have used some really cheap filament from a variety of suppliers and not had any issues when new. So I am slightly suspicious that when we say bad filament its actually old filament that's the issue and not always the supplier.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Just reread part of your post. Seems your multipliers are back to front.
Extrusion multiplier should be at 100% - only use this to fine tune for filament diameter
1st layer should be about 150%. Currently you have 120% with an extrusion multiplier of 80% so the total is 100% - however the don't do the same thing so there are other issues.
Default extrusion width should be 0 or close to 100% (or s
by
MCcarman
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Printing
It is common practice to over extrude on the 1st layer to ensure a good pressure onto the bed and compensate for bed height errors. However you can get ridges above the layer height as a result.
In Slicer you can set filament retraction on a move. You also set the minimum distance that move should be and significantly a lift on retraction.
The lift enables you to raise the nozzle while its moving
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Now all you need to do is attach both ends to the same piece of the door or frame. Currently you have one end on the fixed top and the other on the sliding door.
by
MCcarman
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General
Not sure how it all works out but don't forget there are "solid infill" parameters in Slic3r as well as the obvious ones.
100% infill may not use the same as "solid infill". Top infill is also separate.
There is an area parameter that defines when to use "solid infill" so it may be that your larger items were using normal infill and now you are using solid.
Just a thought.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
I have some suspicions that water absorption causes this. It is only a suspicion.
You are clearly extruding enough material for it to "squish" and its obviously hot enough to flow and to bond with its neighbour. So why does it not stick to the bed?
Hence I suspect there are small bubbles trapped under the filament that expand and cause it to lift.
by
MCcarman
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General
Motors moving one way is associated with the end stops not being correct. Obviously it wouldn't affect the extruder.
If the controller thinks the end stops are activated it will only allow you to move the motors away from the end stops. This normally indicates its the state of the switches that's incorrect not the position of the switches.
End stops characteristics are defined in the config.h fil
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
That's an impressive build.
Put some marks on the gears in the Z drive and look to see if the layer changes match the gear positions. Any eccentricity of the gears will change the Z height a small amount. I mean that the gear on the top of the Z screw may be slightly off centre.
The pictures of the tower seem to show the layers are misaligned. Looks like you are using the Z screw for bed position
by
MCcarman
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General
Don't know about Ponterface but slicer time predictions are wrong for me. It seems to ignore infill.
As mentioned you can increase layer height - in Slicer I believe you can have different layer height on different layers.
You can reduce the infill. 40% is actually quite dense. I often print down at 15%. Again in slicer you can have different values on different layers.
I also think the layers ar
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Pic of the machine would be good. What are you using for X and Y shafts?
by
MCcarman
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General
have a look at the file size that was saved and compare it to what you get when saving on your PC. I suspect you have just saved/copied the start and end codes.
I find the copy to SD a bit troublesome in RH but assumed it was due to my laptop as I have issues with other programs.
A thing to try:- Make sure you save the Gcode to your PC/Laptop first. Then load it to RH and then do a copy to SD.
In
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im in a similar position. I blew the hot end driver on the control board.
I also have a prusa clone so I was thinking of just adding a laser instead of the hot end so i have another toy to play with.
There's only one motor for the z axis on the makibox so you either need another one or go with a belt drive system or find a one motor design.
The makibox has motors with the shaft sticking out the
by
MCcarman
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General
Doesn't look the same across the section. Retraction of 4 = Bowden, can you try less. Might be taking some distance to get up to proper flow.
As an aside I see you have the flow widths set to 0.4 = same as nozzle. You might want to increase this to nearer 0.48 to avoid under extrusion.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
How about low current to the stepper due to an electrical fault in the hot bed?
You know it worked at 190C. In order to make it easier for the stepper you increased the temperature. Now it doesn't cool fast enough to bridge and is stringy.
So I would make sure the bed is turned off, disconnect the bed, remove the bed driver. Try again at 190C. Check for missed steps etc
Could still be a problem o
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im suspicious that the infill overlap doesn't work properly. Don't know what you are using but set it to 0 for now.
Its possible that the hot end is so far from the guide rail bearings and the drive belt you are getting some movement at the nozzle tip. Anything you can do to make the attachment more rigid?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Im not an expert but there are some things here that are likely to cause issues. Hopefully the more knowledgeable will jump in if this is relevant.
127mm/sec is fast. Many here are printing down at 30mm/s so I would reduce that.
You set the min speed to 7000 ???? What units is that in? Clearly the min speed needs to be lower than the speed you want to print at. And the max should be higher.
Heres
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Since the layers print OK, what happens if you reduce the move speed to the same as the print speed? That should rule out speed related issues.
I don't know much about H-Bots but I assume motor synchronisation is critical.
Assuming the firmware is configured correctly then differences in the drivers may have an effect. Just speculating but wire size and length differences?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Have you calibrated the Z axis? Excess travel in Z (bigger layer height than is intended would also explain the poor quality.)
Don't know what controller you are using but if its RAMPS some one please comment on the jumper settings for motor stepping.
Also
Your cooling nozzle seems to be pointing at the hot end heater block - should be lower or you will be trying to cool the part you are heating
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Looks like an extruder issue to me. The corners seem fairly well aligned its just the under extruded layers that look bad. So it makes me think the position control is OK.
Check the spring tension on your pressure wheel. Try increasing it. If there is no adjuster put a washer underneath the spring. Someone on here reported they had a tension spring that was "set" overly compressed and had to stre
by
MCcarman
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Printing
A different approach is to use a dedicated Gcode file along the lines of:-
: code to use probe to report height at 4 corners.
G28 X Y :home x and Y
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 : set positions to zero
G0 X20 Y20 :go to 1st position
G28 Z :home Z
G92 Z0 : set Z to Zero
G0 X160 Y20 Z2 : go to 2nd position raising probe
G28 Z : home Z
M114 :report position 2
G0 X160 Y160 Z2 : go to 3rd position raising probe
G28 Z
by
MCcarman
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General
Have you set an extrusion width?
Width may need to be close to nozzle diameter. Normal rule of thumb is +20% so 0.48 but may need to be smaller at small layer heights.
How far does it get before there is an issue? Don't do a 1st layer at 0.1 due to errors in setting the bed height.
Have you checked the driver voltage setting?
by
MCcarman
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Printing
PLA, turn the bed off.
Confirm you set the nozzle diameter in Slic3r.
Only the 1st layer should be over extruded so set all the other widths to 0.36 or auto.
Layer height should generally be about 80% of nozzle diameter so don't set the layer height greater than 0.28 (your 1st layer is at 0.3)
The weird shape looks like you are not getting to the correct positions.
Check for loose joints. Check a
by
MCcarman
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Printing
2nd layer not sticking is unusual.
Have you calibrated the Z axis. Request and 100mm move in Z and measure it.
Make sure cooling fans are off.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
Which part is which material?
The one on the right seems to extrude better but you need to fix the play or shifting before worrying about the extrusion. What temperatures did you use for the PLA?
The profile is not matching your design. Looks like something is loose in both directions. Assuming its a Pusa or XY, check belts are tight. check hot end is tight. Make sure the bed is not wobbling.
by
MCcarman
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Printing
What material and temperatures are you using?
If the variation in temperature at the nozzle is too great the change in "liquidity" of the filament can cause changes in extrusion rate. Try increasing the temperature 5 or 10 degrees. Make sure the pressure wheel on the extruder has full movement so as to contact the filament. We just have to assume the spring pressure is sufficient at this point. I
by
MCcarman
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Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure where to go with this but you are due a response.
1st layer doesn't show any "squash" so I suspect its to high. What is the layer thickness and nozzle size? Did you set the Z offset in the slicer settings.
Doesn't look like shrinkage. It actually looks like the rounded edge is intended. There is also evidence that the inner periphery is not joining the outer. Are you sure this isn't supp
by
MCcarman
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Printing
The other issue will be how easy the 6mm rods are to bend.
Can you make an adaptor that attaches to your existing bracket and provides new fixings for the 8mm shafts. The new shafts don't have to be in the same place as the current 6mm ones.
So if you have your new 8mm rods going into a block which positions them 9mm above (or below) the current ones you can use an M6 bolt through the existing br
by
MCcarman
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General