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Printing issues ...
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I'm building not so popular P3steel v4 200x300mm printer as my first printer and I'm missing the printed parts.
If someone has good ABS process and want to melt some filament, ship the parts and get financially compensated, please PM me.
Parts STLs are available on github:
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Vuokko
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Wanted
I have rather large spool of ABS. It was in printer unknown time. I was able to extrude 10 cm and then it broke in point where it came off the spool.
While system was hot I pulled out the filament and with the filament part inside Bowden tube I was able to make a knot. The filament which is on the spool is so brittle that it breaks when trying to put it straight. Is there any similar hack like t
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Vuokko
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Ormerod
Sainpas tuon 20x30cm P3Steelin rungon tilaukseen. (Ebay, pilvytis, Liettua) Muoveja siinä ei tule.
Vaivautuisiko, joku printtaan minulle siihen muovit vaikka ABS:stä? Majailen Tampereella.
Muovien tiedostot löytyis tuolta:
Mikä tuo extruderi tuossa muuten on?
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Vuokko
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Finnish RepRap User Group
That USB connector looks one which could be easily be found from digikey or mouser or somewhere. Take a good measurements and find fitting connector. You will burn your board when you connect 5V and GND wrong way.
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Vuokko
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Ormerod
What I would like to see is just an image of my bed current situation. During the heat up the printer could do something useful and not just sit and wait.
It could go around the plate and get the points of bed and produce wireframe or heatmap of the print surface. Just to show user everything is OK.
Twisted bed would be symptom of uneven heating or poor build quality.
Naturally the heat expans
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Vuokko
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General
[1] Oozing can and will break this idea. There will be some plastic which doesn't conduct between the nozzle and plate.
[2] What would be good place for sensor? How to thermally insulate sensor and still get even heat spread on bed? If bed is 20cm wide, sensor in centre of it and one end needs to be lifted 0.2 mm With simple math I get 0.2/100 = sin(a), where a is difference of the angle of abou
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Vuokko
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General
Best software is one which suits your workflow. study them, try them and get some impression what irritates you most and what do you feel comfortable.
Blender is a beast. Not easy to learn but can do anything. Solid works is nice and I like onshape on some level. has a long list.
I use Openscad, Librecad and sometimes Blender. My weirdest 3D object was designed with pcb -> postscript ->
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Vuokko
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3D Design tools
I know your feeling. I'm sourcing parts for my first printer and I have so many things to print which don't fit in to the 20x20x20cm cube.
I started a month ago reading wiki and this forum. Then I studied different electronics and Marlin firmware. And I have so many questions still in my notebook. Most of them is how something works.
My solution was go to P3 steel V4 version. 20x30x20cm gives
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Vuokko
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General
Just a thought but how about adding loop to black carrier parts? Top side or outside on the vertical bar. Putting bowden tube through it and releasing it on third black part counted from extruder could give nice loose turns for tube.
I like that carrier. Looks like really venomous snake.
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Vuokko
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Reprappers
+1 for recycling windows 10. If you bought 3D printer, the price of SD card and Raspberry pi isn't that big investment. And Octopi isn't that hard to install or maintain.
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Vuokko
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General
This is only idea right now while I'm waiting parts to arrive for my printer. I have thought building warm (about 50C) cabinet and adding some three wire fans.
Every motor should have temperature sensor and fan. Also electronics should be equipped with them. I'm also thinking measuring active charcoal - HEPA filter intake and outlet temperature. There would be best place to heat the cabinet air.
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Vuokko
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Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Yes they are cheap. I have 8 Pis running from wall warts and they have used something like twenty power supplies. I have tried Chinese modules and smell how they let their magic smoke out. I've used phone chargers and now I have bunch of them in my dead electronics box. All have one common thing. They have started with over 50mV ripple at 1A load when new.
Some PSUs didn't burned, they just faile
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Vuokko
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General
The output has high impedance and it drops when 7805 tries to regulate it. It isn't ideal regulator where everything above 5V would dissipate in heat and rest would come out. It need some biasing currents etc, which loads the sensor and when it loads it, voltage drops to 2.5. So try the voltage divider.
Edit: First make sure you have connected everything right and you have no ground leaks. Also
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Vuokko
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General
Just for the record.
If printer doesn't work with one computer but works with another, the problem is in computer.
If there isn't serial port available, it is driver problem. Check with device manager.
If serial port exist but can't be opened, it is permission problem. Test for example putty (Terminal application) which usually gives reasonable error messages.
If serial port opens but machine
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Vuokko
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Reprappers
If I understood correctly, your error is access denied. It is permission problem or some other program is using your serial port.
I found this with quick searching.
Good luck. I haven't really used Windows since Win 2000
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Vuokko
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Reprappers
And remember to stop burning candles. They generate huge amount of particles.
Back to topic... I'm planning to do circulation like this: active charcoal filter(20x50cm), fan, vacuum cleaner out HEPA filter and back to enclosure. That way I don't fill my fan with dust. Would that system suck out smell of ABS?
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Vuokko
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General
I wouldn't recommend to put Pi and control board to same case. Both generate heat and Pi would die first as it is more sensible to it.
How I would solve this is shorter USB cable and power Mega from USB. Less heat from Mega's regulator And Pi has serial port in pins 14 and 15
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Vuokko
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General
The # in preprocessor macros has double meaning. First it is used in #include #if etc. It is also string concatenation.
Are you sure your SanityCheck.h has line 174
#elif FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION > BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION #error FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION must be less than BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION.
It should be (from github):
#elif FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION > BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION
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Vuokko
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Firmware - Marlin
Go bigger and slower if possible. Less noise and more durability.
Or if you find from dumpster some 1U rack computer, they have good fans. I have several 40mm fans from 1998 and they have been running 24/7 over twenty years. Not at full power but spinning all the time. I thought I just throw them to my automation box and change bigger but there hasn't been need for it.
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Vuokko
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General
After watching the video, one stupid question came to my mind.
Are you sure, you don't measure flex of the printer as you are measuring from extruder to plate? I would suggest putting the dial fixed to table and then run Y axis and compare it to extruder to plate measurements.
If plate is calibrated for extrusion and it isn't parallel to table, readings would be way off. Also if the plate to ta
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Vuokko
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Developers
Quotedc42
Yes I use a 230VAC bed heater.
How do you control it? In normal thermostatic mode with relay or SSR or with some kind of PWM and triac?
I'm just curious as I'm thinking about multiple fan control and measure board with mains relay for 24VDC PSU and 230VAC heater bed triac.
I have this idea of putting my yet to be built printer inside a box, put some air through the electronics and mot
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Vuokko
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General
Quotewombat
HOWEVER it is a bit of a lie - temperature sensor is placed on the heatbed surface, bellow the aluminium plate. I measured the temperature of top aluminium plate using IR meter while printer was indicating 120C and it was only ~75C.
Only thing which IR thermometers are good, is metering human temperature. Aluminium reflects IR so much that meters are way off easily. Tape your multim
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Vuokko
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Prusa i3 and variants
suggest backlight and all other parts are connected to 5V and GND through EXP1.
If you take out power from board, SD card and buttons lose their power. So there is no easy way to do that.
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Vuokko
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General
I'm building my first 3D printer (i3) and I have been thinking it through like this: If I go to 24 volts, my currents will be half of the 12V and mr. Ohm says it's good thing as P = UI and P = RI^2.
I can lower motor driving currents, get bit more faster actions, connect Z in series and heat my wires and FETs less.
I planned to take D1 off and check the caps. Also I consider powering Arduino thr
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Vuokko
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RAMPS Electronics
Usually temperature changes are within five degrees. According to this metals are something like 10 to 30 µm/m*K And it expands every direction evenly and nullifies some of the errors.
As wood is sensitive moiture and it varies a lot. Also wood expands by curving and the movement is huge according to this:
Is that something like three or four decades more? At least I can't open my back door d
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Vuokko
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General
I tried 123D and didn't like. The mesh I got out wasn't that usable.
Now I'm playing with regard3d, which seems to be quite capable and has a lot of potential. Easiest platform to use it is OS X.
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Vuokko
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3D Design tools
What kind of dust control are you planning to use?
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Vuokko
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Reprappers
Petterin rungot tulivat ja menivät ja itsellä on tässä tarjousten haku menossa. Onko joku muu tekemässä samaa työtä tällä. Kiinnostukseni on kohti 2.5 tai 20x30cm versiota.
Toinen juttu on, jos jollakulla on täysin kesken jäänyt ja hanskat tiskiin meininki tai sitten on suuttunut putkimaan lattialla mötköttävää teräksistä kapinetta niin saa tarjota mulle murheikseni.
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Vuokko
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Finnish RepRap User Group
I'm no way specialist in plastics. I have minor in paper converting and I thought about the PE coating extruder which is heated screw and its mechanics are rather simple. It is basically screwing in heated barrel with some nozzle.
But yes. Injection molding would be possible with screw extruder approach. And I thought about the bowl also. Would gravity be enough if you opened valve from bottom o
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Vuokko
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General
What is wrong with normal electricity? AFAIK magnetrons aren't very efficient. Normal screw extruder could make the filament quite nicely.
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Vuokko
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General
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