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Printing issues ...
Quotegilbertjames332
Hi! Usually most people prefer the matter or jig saw blade to cut aluminium. Check out this link for detailed information about the best blade to cut aluminium; many replies are detailed and very illuminating. Good Luck!
The already suggested drop or mitre saw with a fine tooth carbide blade is considered perfectly fine by significant number of professionals working in the
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aussiephil
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Extruded Aluminum Frames
Hey TTN,
Couldn't you shorten that Bowden tube further? Not sure how long your arms are but there seems like plenty of leeway to suspend the extruder lower down.
Very tempted to print one and try.
I'm down to 1.2mm retracts on my set up with a 200mm Bowden tube from the flying extruder on 674mm long arms
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
Quotedeckingman
Quoteaussiephil
Surprised that the video hasn't raised questions or comments in general.
I'm not. If it'd been a pile of crap you'd have had plenty of comments. As there is nothing to criticise, there are no comments. Take it as a compliment. (Sorry, that's just an old man getting more cynical every day).
Hey I'm old and cynical myself, it sort of feels weird though as my main
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
Quotedeckingman
Is it OK if I PM you?
Yep, anytime
Surprised that the video hasn't raised questions or comments in general.
Last night I finally seen the effects of belts getting a little loose, looks like the adjusting screws used with the belt clamps backed off a little plus the belt clamp/adjuster needs a small redesign. This resulted in some corners with backlash type misalignment.
I've o
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
Quotedeckingman
Quoteaussiephil
Quotedeckingman
Nice one ! Don't suppose you are anywhere near Canberra are you?
Depends if you consider Flynn to be in Canberra.....
For a Brit, it's in the ACT so that's near enough. My daughter moved out there a couple of years back to be with her Kiwi boyfriend. They were in in Gungahlin but have recently move to Casey. They are getting married in September
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
A standard hot air rework station will do the job just fine and whilst I haven't removed those specific arm chips I have pulled similar sized microchip processors from boards.
Solid trick is to run a bead of smd solder flux over/around all the pins prior to hitting with the hot air and have a smd suction device to lift the chip away.... The flux will give a very accurate indication when you have
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aussiephil
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Duet
Quotedeckingman
Be careful you don't overdo the cooling thing. I "upgraded" the print cooling on my Mendel variant and ran into problems with layers not adhering well. I think my problem was that the cooling air was being directed too closely to the nozzle and the filament was cooling too quickly before it could adhere properly to the previous layer. I'm actually getting better results by turning
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aussiephil
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Duet
Hi icefire
Couple things
With direct extruder try to avoid to much retraction, the big numbers quoted all the time are for Bowden setups, you only need enough to remove the pressure.
Careful of both the retraction speed and acceleration settings as both cab cause skipping and less retraction than you think you are getting.
I to have been a long term ABS person and have only just tried PLA, wit
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aussiephil
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General
Quotedeckingman
Nice one ! Don't suppose you are anywhere near Canberra are you?
Depends if you consider Flynn to be in Canberra.....
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
Alternate subjects:
Delta's can be fast..... and accurate
or
How not to print PLA by the book.
One weak point I've identified in my design is the belt joiner and tensioner set up. To fit the space the printed part is more fragile than i would like with two failing already. I've decided to have them made from Aluminium now and nearly hit buy the other day on a mini mill to do it myself before dec
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
@PRZ
You sort of hinted at the fact that the entire mass of the system driven by the steppers needs to be taken into account...... I'm going to say you must take all the mass into account.
I also using the term mass as you can counterweight things like flying extruders but they still have mass to speed up and stop.
I know my effector set up weighs in around 1/2 to 1/3 of the weight of any sing
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
If you can't even get 1000mm/s/s accelerate then it's a poor build for one or more reasons.... It's not that it is a Delta.
Admit that I'm using Nema23's but I'm already at 6000mm/s/s with zero signs of ringing.
Need to have some belt joiner tensioner pieces made from Aluminium before going too much higher.
At 100mm/s print speed I'm it full speed in 1mm.
ANY printer with poor part selection w
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines
Quotedc42
Please can you provide a detailed specification on what you would like to see, for me to consider and others to comment on. For example:
- what format should the log entries in the file take?
- should cancelled prints be logged too?
- what information should be logged?
- how would you want to retrieve the log file?
My thoughts are;
Standard CSV text file, comma separated entries. Rea
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aussiephil
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Duet
I've now gone through nearly two spools of PLA on the delta and I miss having cumulative statistics of print run and filament usage that I have on the sailfish firmware
Thinking about this it would be nice if the firmware wrote back to a log file data on each successful print, capturing filename, filament usage, date, time, print duration. This could be downloaded and opened in a spreadsheet for
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aussiephil
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Duet
Kapton for ABS works perfectly for me, I was gifted a sheet of Buildtak for use on the FFCP.... it lasted about twice as long as one application of Kapton and gave me no reason to switch. I've been running Blue tape on the MegaHexDelta for PLA with no issues once i dialed in Z0 accurately
@DD I have some PET Green tape on order to try out and see how it goes.
I can see why the various new surfa
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aussiephil
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General
QuoteLoboCNC
It's not too surprising that the edges are cooler if the heater is 500mm dia and your plate is 600x650. The unheated edges are going to suck away and radiate off heat from the uninsulated top side. Going to a 600mm dia heater will help but if there are still unheated corners, you might want to either cut them off or insulate them.
Regarding your hot spot in the center, rather tha
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aussiephil
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General
QuoteDjDemonD
Awesome thermal images - I really want a thermal imaging camera now
8mm tooling plate I am sure, is a wonderfully flat and sturdy bed to print on, but if it such a thick piece of aluminium is so slow to heat up and to some extent uneven in temperature, maybe its too thick?
Sadly this one is just borrowed so have to give it back.
Based on a whole bunch of threads i'd hardly call
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aussiephil
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General
I'm using a 32Gb card at the moment
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aussiephil
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Duet
DD: I did leave it sit for a while at each level but it is slow to equalise.
James: I'm not really surprised considering the ambient air temp of 10c and despite the insulation under the bed it is no doubt still loosing heat from the edges.... plus the speed of heat up means it takes a while for the 8mm plate to fully heat up.evenly.
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aussiephil
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General
Quotedc42
Currently the fan is either full on or full off when in thermostatic mode. It's on my list to make the on-speed controlled by the S parameter.
ok, i'll patiently wait on that... for the remote 50mm blower i'm using it's essential to throttle it down but i got some 70x70 blowers today that are quiet but seem to push less air, as soon as I get a chance i'll swap over and maybe 100% on wi
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aussiephil
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Duet
gotta learn to quote duet version yes 0.8.5
Knew it was likely, just hadn't found it (so much still to learn)
so M106 P1 T45 H1:2 is the example given,
makes sense but what about the S value, will S192 limit the max value used thermostatic mode?
Cheers
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aussiephil
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Duet
Thought this might be of interest for any considering Silicon Heat pads.
The bed set up for my Delta is...
600mm x 650mm Cast Tooling Plate that is 8mm thick
Heat Pad is 500mm circular, 1200W at 240V
Insulated underneath with 3mm Ceramic Fibre Paper behind pad and an additional 3mm thick around the heat pad.
This all sits on 12mm of cork.
Translates into nearly zero loss from the bottom of the p
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aussiephil
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General
@DC42
hi David
I am so used with the Sailfish firmware on the Flashforge controlling the extruder cooling fans automatically I get frustrated that I have to manually turn off the extruder fan once the extruder temp drops low enough not to worry about jamming the hot end. (or forget to turn it on when changing filament)
Is there a way to do this in RRF?
if not is there any way this can be adde
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aussiephil
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Duet
Quotethe_digital_dentist
Very nice! Definitely among the better delta prints I've seen. How is the dimensional accuracy of the red box?
Honestly didn't measure it off the printer but the mounting holes line up correctly to the duet board.
A 200mm square was printing .6mm to large but I've left it alone for the time being as the pla filament has die swell to .7mm from the .4mm nozzle, .2mm lar
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aussiephil
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Printing
Comments and thoughts welcome.
Finally started enclosing my Hex framed delta today and with the 4 main sides now firmly attached the frame stiffness has taken a significant leap upwards so I moved the acceleration settings up to 4000mm/s
M201 = 4000
M566 is still at 1500mm/minute
The printed item is a Duet mounting tray with fan attachment and air flow ducting. It was printed in translucent red
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aussiephil
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Printing
Further update from me re Speed
supplied 4Gb mSd card - 640 to 650KiB/s consistently
Now it gets freaky I grabbed a very fast Toshiba 32Gb mSD card I keep as spare capacity for the camera, and that is fast write as well as read, the copy of the base directories was close to 10Mb/S when plugged into the computer and inline with expectations of this card.
It was freshly formatted to Fat32 using
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aussiephil
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Duet
Wow....
To the OP....... E3D V6 Clone quality.... Poor to reasonable based on all the threads..... so highly variable would be the correct answer.
Some attitudes expressed and shown in the thread will absolutely ensure I don't buy certain products now or in the future.
I didn't buy a clone for my new printer despite the lure of a cheap price and actually ended up buying a DyzEnd hot end that
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aussiephil
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General
QuoteOhmarinus
When I print high things with a small diameter, I notice that the ABS stays hot because the hotend is radiating heat onto the printed material.
I am going to ignore the argument about good/bad hotend and address at least part of the original post.....
The quoted statement is largely wrong..... yep wrong, the ABS is not staying hot because the hotend is radiating heat it is simply
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aussiephil
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Printing
Quotedougal1957
That supplier will also do one with a small hole of say 10-15 mm in the centre of the pad to allow a thermister to be mounted in the center of the bed and this is What I will be asking for when I order my 600mm diam one?
Doug
Been thinking about this overnight and considering David's comments below I personally believe it is better to measure the temperature towards the edge of t
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aussiephil
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Delta Machines