Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
Quotesdavi
You can use a 2D plot and a rotate extrude. I found a 2D graphing library on thingiverse to quickly come up with this (source code attached):
Just have to tweak the equation to get the shape you want. You could also import a dxf and use the rotate_extrude as well.
THANK YOU very much.... that will also let me play with some conical horn speaker designs.
Cheers and thanks again
by
aussiephil
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
I respect that ATX supplies might be easy to find and even maybe free but for lots of reasons including general simplicity of connections just use a common 350W 12V adjustable SMPS like
similar pricing from Amazon
Used and sold widely in the Christmas light community as well
In the Christmas light world we moved away from ATX style supplies years ago to the ones i've listed above.
Back to th
by
aussiephil
-
General
@ dc42
Filament odometer I use all the time on the ffcp sailfish, both on a per print basis and at times on a per roll versus print to get a better estimate of a print will run out what's left on the roll.
Total print time is a stat for interest but could be used for accounting as well, individual print times for each print I assume are available?
by
aussiephil
-
Duet
I had thought of that Victor but my oven certainly isn't big enough and I was hoping to get a more precise contours by 3d printing it then smoothing the layer ridging.
by
aussiephil
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
Thanks Dave, saved me installing k-cad again, (never liked it for doing pcb design). Guess i'll just re purpose one of the 27V 350W SMPS units i have lying around and run it around 30V
Cheers
by
aussiephil
-
Duet
Hi Pierre,
I have done DC lighting controller designs as a hobby in recent years so I guess i'll pour over the board design and specified parts to see what is possible unless DC42 chimes in with a number, Dave has mentioned 30V to me in another thread though.
I get that Vin is the label used in the circuit design but it's typical to label the board something like Gnd and +V on outputs, not wor
by
aussiephil
-
Duet
Even though my Delta is still in construction, the total number of times I've used the dual extruders on the FFCP in over 4000hrs of printing is completely minimal for traditional dual extrusion work.... I have however used it constantly for "ditto" printing last year and would love to see that feature in RRP firmware.
So like bg suggested my build will be a single extruder Delta that I will get
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Hoping someone can model a gravity well in openscad, .
I'm looking to print a spiral wishing well on the new printer once I have the 500mm bed fine tuned but my ability with openscad is near zero and it just doesn't make a lot of sense.
anyone up for the challenge?
by
aussiephil
-
Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
QuoteZedsquared
I personally don't trust my (or any other ) printer enough to sleep with it on!
better than 80% of all my printing is unattended with better than 30% done overnight when I'm sound asleep. I don't have the printer inside the residence though. It is located in my detached garage so significantly less risky to my personal safety.
About the only time it's actually turned off is if
by
aussiephil
-
General
Hi Pierrre,
Firstly thanks for the wiki page it will be handy when my board finally arrives.
Now onto a couple of comments and questions. (you may not have all the answers)
- the Bed connector, shouldn't that be Vout as it provides voltage to the bed?
- same comment on the E H0/1 connectors as these drive the heaters hence Vout.
- same for the fan outputs.
- Vin, just what is the Vmax number
by
aussiephil
-
Duet
Based on the pictures I'd personally say the nozzle to bed height is too large for the first layer. It could be the bed is also not level as one corner appears to have adhered.
I print exclusively ABS on Kapton tape and find that the first layer needs to have some definite "squish" to ensure adhesion.
Bed at 110c for 2 layers then dropped to 100c for rest of print works for me.
My nozzle to bed
by
aussiephil
-
Printing
Quotebgkdavis
guess someone has to live there
And if your not in the land of the gods (Cairns) then I guess people have to live elsewhere as well
Where are you bg?
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Quotebgkdavis
Where in aus are you?
Canberra
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Thought I should post an update.
Things achieved:
32mm MDF base stand completed:
top cut out, still to be painted
heatbed platform cut out, still to be painted
Base hexagonal structure bolted together
2040 and 20mm rods placed in base.
2040 plum bobbed and then bolted to brackets.
top pulley mounts designed, printed and confirmed valid
rod carriages finalised, linear bearings inserted and teste
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Thanks hercek,
I had to read it a couple times then it did sink in, a quick mock up in tinkercad shows that once I get new arms to allow full bed coverage I should get 50% past the line with no issue.
the tower to tower distance is close to 640mm now since I made the hexagonal sides 345mm long
Cheers
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Quotehercek
Only if your bed si so big that your print head can get significantly behind the line connecting two virtual tower positions. Most delta printer do not have this property. Therfore for most printers, the calibration procedure will drift and will not find the proper arm length and delta radius. Of course you could optimize only arm length and not delta radius (tower positions) but that
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB
its nothing virtual.. its how you measure the arm length... its always been a measure pivot to pivot whatever you use magnetic,rc car joint or any others form of joint
I use the word virtual to mean that the arm length measurement in my case is actually not the length of the physical rods as the pivot point is 5mm past each end of the cup bottom on each end of the physical rod.
Apol
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
OK, in that case the actual physical arm length is not the number needed. In this case it's the virtual arm length.
And I wonder just how many people this actually trips up.
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
With all the threads talking about the to know absolutely to the 1/10 or better of a mm the actual arm length for a Delta printer, I now have a quandary about which measurement is correct.
For Traxxas style joints it seems to be logically simple: Measure the distance from centre of bolt hole to centre of bolt hole.
It seems to become more complex for any joint using a round ball that rides in a
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Whilst still very much in the construction of my own design at the moment, I'm also not convinced that magnetic joints are valid as size goes up though I suppose the overall effector weight doesn't go up much unless you move to multiple hot ends or a Diamond hot end.
Build volume + Quality does not equal cheap. Like most things these three seem at odds to each other for 3D printing and the cost
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
I can only comment on the Duet board....
I have an order in for a Duet 0.8.5.from Filastruder, that should be arriving in a small batch in the next few days. I was told just before I ordered that they also had another batch coming in after that.
Duet series does have a new board in development called the DuetNG (NextGeneration) but in the announcement it was said the 0.8.5 version would also rem
by
aussiephil
-
General
QuoteDjDemonD
Here's another couple of questions for the experienced S3D users...
1) Why does it over-extrude on the first layer but extrude extremely accurately on all other layers? I am using first layer height 130% but the nozzle will be for example 0.2x1.3= 0.26mm above the bed for the first layer - plus the thickeness of a piece of paper, so it shouldn't snag and ruck-up on the adjacent la
by
aussiephil
-
General
QuoteDjDemonD
I was planning to use a mitre saw and metal cutting disc but there is a precision engineering company near to me so I am tempted to have them cut a little more precisely, I also need the centre holes tapped to m6).
Unless it's a specialist disk for aluminium it will be worse by a lot than using a fine tooth tungsten carbide wood blade. It's easy to get them exact, just make a jig f
by
aussiephil
-
General
Today was Aluminium cutting day.
Had to square up the drop saw first, lucky it is easy to do.
Sliced the 5 verticals to 1650mm long so they extend 50mm out the top for mounting options, this is 50mm longer than the 1600mm vertical rods (63")
Next did a quick jig to ensure all the base/top frame members were cut identical lengths, (345mm)
The drop saw is a 12 inch compound mitre saw with a 80
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB
Like are you planing a system of some kind to adjust your linear rod position ?
Assuming you mean the vertical rods then no, the top and bottom corners are identical and the FFCP will produce essentially identical parts printed on the same part of the bed so all spacing is the same.
Cheers
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
I've used S3D nearly exclusively after a few frustrating weeks with slic3r when I first got my FFCP.
14 months and 4000 print hours later I have the following...... I print exclusively ABS so this may vary for other types...
I have found that at a practical level that the filament diameter setting will make a difference but most rolls have some variance that I've given up measuring it unless it
by
aussiephil
-
General
QuoteGroupB
I did not read anything that said rod spacing need to be accurate , I did not measure mine , but I made a flat bar with 2 hole where my balls sit and use that as a jig on 3 side of the effector and on the 3 carrier so I must have the same spacing around.
mmm, it's given me an idea to split the effector print into three parts now to fully remove X/Y position errors of the triangular p
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
QuoteGroupB
Why not use bigger hole in the effector for the ball so you can adjust them perfectly with something like a jig for spacing and a dial for the Up/Down? The jig then can also be use for the carrier. You can do better than 0.5mm , this is a important measure to get right, try to aim in the 0.05mm (0.002 inch), we talking about the tilt problem if those are not right. I know its hard an
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Bits keep dribbling in....
Arrived this week.
Various M4 and M5 bolts and nuts. more to arrive yet
The 2040 T-Slot
the 20mm steel rod
First thing to get test assembled was the steel balls to the effector and oh crap that is when I discover that the FFCP steps/mm is slightly out, just enough to give a 1% variance on the ball spacings on the three sides, had been unnoticed as all the other bits wh
by
aussiephil
-
Delta Machines
Thanks PRZ and Dave (in advance of the value)
guess I'll go and buy a dyzend now so I can design the effector mount and cooling setup..... think my large delta is becoming Big Expensive Experience, with a real sting to the wallet by the time I pair that with a Bondtech QR i'll have spent more on those two bits than many spend on a smaller machine
Cheers
by
aussiephil
-
Duet