Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
I bought some 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape, 12" squares (pack of 6) from Amazon. I then found the Michaels craft store sold some cork squares, cut them down to size to fit my heat bed and then used the 3M adhesive to hold it on.
It’s worked for for me for over 2 years now with no sign of peeling off like this.
by
PDBeal
-
General
So over the weekend, I changed out my Titan E3D 0.4 setup to a Titan E3D Volcano 0.6 setup. I adjusted my z-height and also changed my slicer to use the 0.6 nozzle instead of the 0.4. On the first few test prints, I’m seeing a strange gap on some of the top layers. It shows up in two different places, but the rest of the top surface is almost perfect. I’m sort of at a loss for where to start to
by
PDBeal
-
Printing
Quotehttp://www.reprap.org/wiki/Duet_Web_Control#ConfigurationIn the "settings" tab, you could modify parameters. Configuration parameters are stored in the local storage of your browser and the cookies shall be activated. If you clean up regularly your browser cookies/cache for safety, this will cancel the configuration. To set permanent modifications independent from your browser, you shall mod
by
PDBeal
-
Duet
QuoteSupraGuy
Anyway, it'd be nice to get the troubleshooting portion of this over with, so that I can start using the printer.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you truly wanted a printer to take out of a box and use, a kit was the wrong thing to get. Its also one of those things you get what you pay for.
I spent $350 on a kit to start with, but after realizing it's limitations, I'v
by
PDBeal
-
General
QuoteWesBrooks
The recommended fuse levels for PSUs tend to be above the expected draw. Probably a safety margin for inrush or tolerable faults. Adding up the recommended fuse level on each PSU will probably be overkill. The start up of my 24V PSUs is naturally staggered as one will only power up after M80, which closes a relay that cuts the mains supply to the stepper/heater PSU.
The recommende
by
PDBeal
-
Safety & Best Practices
Is it a direct drive extruder or a Bowden extruder? On my Bowden systems with my CoreXY, because of the length of the tube it’s not uncommon for me to have 5-6mm retraction. On the direct drive setups, I usually don’t need more than 1mm. I think the 1.75mm Bowden setup has a lot of spring in the tube and filament which is why the retraction is much higher. Just something to try at least.
by
PDBeal
-
Printing
But one thing to note, it's not your file that he's claiming was his own. The bell from your file is different dimension-ally so whether he adapted your file or recreated your file, it's not an exact copy of your file, so your sandwich analogy does not fit.
Sure, it sucks he might be claiming your design, but I've taken some original parts from my 3D printer that someone else designed and rewor
by
PDBeal
-
General
I hate to break it to you, but if you put both STL files into the same slicer/3d modeler they are different sizes. The bell.stl file from the Plasticprince files is not as tall as your bell from plate1 and appears to actually fit inside of your plate1.stl bell design.
by
PDBeal
-
General
Print something similar to and watch your Z axis to see if its moving up or down during the print. If your using the z axis compensation, you should see the Z axis move as it prints the extreme edges, or the center area (assuming your bed bows up or down in the middle)
by
PDBeal
-
General
PTZ control isn't exactly a defined standard across all manufacturers. I've got numerous PTZ cameras installed at my workplace that are used with the equipment and even just from camera manufacturing the PTZ commands / setup are different. Some even have proprietary PTZ communication and even between camera models on the same manufacturer. For example, Pelco PTZ can be PELCO-C, PELCO-D, etc...
by
PDBeal
-
Duet
On my CoreXY printers, I have the spool on top of the printer on the rear left corner at a 45 degree angle. The spool just sits on a printed spacer that then has an 8mm shaft (left over piece from cutting my rods) that's supported by two printed legs. Because the printed spacer in the hub of my spool puts the 8mm shaft in the dead center, the spool just freely spins and doesn't require any exce
by
PDBeal
-
Mechanics
I’ve seen banding in white play and pla+ on my machines. I’m not sure if it’s a temperature thing or a z banding thing, but other colors never show the bands, but white is really bad depending on the object.
by
PDBeal
-
Printing
You should be able to do it assuming the line side of your power supplies current draw doesn't exceed the rating of your wire, plug, switch, etc...
So you need to know what your line side current draw is for both your power supplies, add them together and make sure your wire, plugs, switches, wall outlets are rated for that much combined current.
by
PDBeal
-
Safety & Best Practices
Wouldn't the inductive sensors be connected to E0 STP instead of the Z-Probe pins because they're not analog signals and are either on or off?
by
PDBeal
-
General
Don't use the same password on every site. Thats insecure right off the start. Plus you assuming, if the system used https encryption (which would involve purchasing a signed ssl certificate) and that if the site ever got hacked your login/password information would be safe, which it wouldn't be.
by
PDBeal
-
Administration, Announcements, Policy
Are you slicing with S3D by chance? I remember reading something on these forums that people noticed the skirt with S3D was not continuous, but normal printing was fine. However, I don't remember exactly where I saw that someone had figured out there was an issue with skirts and S3D.
by
PDBeal
-
General
You'd have to recalibrate your firmware with a different steps/mm for the extruder and possibly change the direction pin for the extruder motor.
by
PDBeal
-
Reprappers
I'm not sure about Tampa, but I've ordered stuff from Misumi in the US and its shipped and delivered from Chicago in a day or so to Panama City.
by
PDBeal
-
General
What size heater is on your hotend and how big is the block and nozzle?
I've got the Flexion extruder on an E3D V6 hotend and it is capable of running at 60mm/s, but certain Ninjaflex colors don't melt fast enough to be printed at that speed. Some are fine, but some colors just don't like to melt that fast. In my machine I've not used anything but the Ninjatek Ninjaflex 1.75 filament.
by
PDBeal
-
General
Printing 3mm flexible filament isn't as difficult as trying to print 1.75 flexible filament. I've seen/heard a lot of people have had little to no issues with 3mm flexible filament in a standard extruder like the wade's extruder design or the e3d titan extruder even with a standard bowden tube. The difficulty comes in with 1.75 flexible filament in a bowden tube.
by
PDBeal
-
General
The raspberry pi will only provide 600mA of power on the USB ports unless you make some changes in the /boot/config.txt file. I don't know if 600mA is enough power to bring up the Duet 0.8.5 over USB as I didn't see that in any of the specifications.
by
PDBeal
-
Duet
Most all of the industrial paint shops in the automotive plants use robots protected in some sort of bag or sheet material with a grated floor and running water in a channel below to gather the over-spray from the robot. Most of the spray booths I've worked in and seen all have glass windows and the ones that aren't all glass windows are usually ANSI61 grey. Over time however, the grating usual
by
PDBeal
-
General
Have you tried printing with a big cardboard box over the printer itself? You said its not a heated chamber, but if it was enclosed the temperature of the bed and hotend would dry the air inside the chamber to a point that might rule out the humidity option. And I'm not suggesting you spend a ton of money trying it out, but would offer a large cardboard moving box would be large enough to cover
by
PDBeal
-
General
Might not be a bad idea to send a small sample to DC42 to test against his IR sensor. I know a lot of people are using those ir sensors that he sells.
by
PDBeal
-
General
I believe he is referring to this with regards to the resurrection part.
by
PDBeal
-
General
You said this all worked as direct drive on the Printrboard before switching to the Ramps/Mega combo. I'm assuming you've also probably updated the firmware in that process too. It's possible your reaching a limit on the Mega's cpu processing power limiting you due to all the new features that the newer firmware versions have over the older ones. You could test that by installing an older Marl
by
PDBeal
-
Printing
I've done a direct drive modification for the E3D Titan Extruder with a V6 Hotend (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1744154) and I've also done a direct drive modification for the Flexion E3D Retrofit Kit for V6 Hotend(https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1934066). Neither have imposed any limitation on speed or build area as far as I can tell. I did switch to a pancake stepper on the E3D Titan d
by
PDBeal
-
Smart_Rap
I have seen this myself, but it's been a fat finger on the PanelDue display. Because the extrude and retract buttons are fairly big, sometimes I press the area and it will trigger the retract button instead of the extrude button. This usually happens when I'm pressing the area that's pretty close to both buttons. I've chalked it up to the touch portion not being super accurate and the proximity
by
PDBeal
-
Duet
Did you power cycle the duet after installing the new firmware? On all four of mine (duet 0.8.5) when I installed the new iap.bin and the 1.18.1 firmware I had to power cycle the boards before the DWC was able to connect. The reboot on the firmware upload wasn't sufficient for whatever reason.
by
PDBeal
-
Duet
Something in the back of my head says, if you mix filaments into a single new color (assuming for the moment that this is even doable), your not going to be able to do any retraction or if you do you won't be able to pull the filament out of the mixing chamber enough to relieve the pressure.
by
PDBeal
-
Developers