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Printing issues ...
QuoteGroupB
There also Octoprint for wifi use of the printer and to remove the need to hook to a PC
A raspberry pi is still a PC, and it's still using USB to control the printer. The only true way to dump the PC is with a controller that has onboard Ethernet in one way shape or form that also contains a standalone control interface.
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PDBeal
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General
Make sure all four wires are making good connection on the stepper motors. I've had mine just go all jittery like you explained when it looses connection to one of the 4 wires. Best way to know is to use a multimeter and ohm out the poles of the motor. If that comes back clean, your Vref might be too high or two low.
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PDBeal
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Reprappers
QuoteInhumierer
Fixed it, now looking for something to print...
IMO, you can never have enough #3DBenchy models or Marvin key chains. Those always seem to be my go-to test prints these days. The Marvin key ring is always a good test for retraction and ooze on the topside of his head and the actual key ring loop.
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PDBeal
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Printing
Considering your thought being option 2, it could be a case on inconsistent z heights. On one layer, maybe your Z is moving 0.2mm, and on the next layer it moved 0.21mm and the subsequent layer moved to 0.19mm due to some sort of slight mechanical miss alignment or if somethings slightly bent or not completely square. The layer movements that go to 0.19 instead of 0.2 could also make it look bu
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PDBeal
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Printing
Quotefrankvdh
So I got a three V8s to use on my soon-to-be 100m diameter Delta printer. I figure if I use the A4988 stepper drivers to run the spark plugs, and the direction setting to switch between 1st/reverse gear, I can get 1mm resolution. Where can I get 200400 extrusion? Should I use 256x microstepping?
lol
You could always make a V8 blender.
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PDBeal
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General
The last picture is a feature thats not printing very well. The back of benchy is supposed to say #3DBenchy. Although I've never had this come out unless I print benchy at 0.15mm layers.
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PDBeal
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Printing
It almost sounds like your belts are too tight and the motors are having issues moving them or your motors don't have enough torque to move the head around.
The area your belts cross, are they perhaps stuck with teeth to teeth, or have you twisted it to make the teeth opposite of the crossing belt?
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PDBeal
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Reprappers
Quoteadenton
I heard that drilling through it can solve the problem, but obviously you risk damaging the part...
What I've done in the past is to hold the drill bit in my finger and rotate it backwards with my fingers. Since it's drilling plastic and your not using the drill threads to dig into the plastic, your fairly safe from causing any major damage. Thankfully I've only had to do this twice
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PDBeal
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General
You'll have better firmware support for the Duet Wifi, or if you wait for the Duet Ethernet board that DC42 is working to release. DC42 does an amazing job with bug fixes and new features for RepRapFirmware along with the large support group on here and the Duet3d.com forums.
He has only just started releasing untested versions of RepRapFirmware for the RADDS boards.
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PDBeal
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Controllers
You might want to check out T-glase. It's pretty shiny and semi-transparent in most of the pictures I've seen of printed objects. They also go into depth on how to make more transparent objects by adjusting some of your slicer settings. t-glase features
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PDBeal
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Reprappers
I don't think you'll be able to buy a kit that can reliably reproduce that 12" long 1/2" pipe. Most of the cheap chinese kits on the market are usually in the 200x200x(120-160) range. You might find a cheap delta printer that can go taller, but might not be very easy to setup for reliable reproduce-able prints. Especially within your constraint of $150. Even the ANET A8 only has a build volum
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PDBeal
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General
Something in your Z motion isn't moving smoothly in those layers. I had a similar issue with my z axis belt was rubbing the belt teeth on the edge of a slot for the bearing. I redesigned my part to use a bearing sleeve which increased the clearance to the slot and my lines went away. You might have something rubbing or binding on those particular heights, especially if you get the same lines in t
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PDBeal
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Printing
For what I've seen, most people set the Z=0 position using a piece of plain paper. You run the nozzle down very close to the bed just to the point it is grabbing a piece of paper, but not pinning the paper down. You can usually feel it while moving the paper around.
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PDBeal
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Printing
It sounds like your cooling isn't adequate enough. You might want to look into a better part cooling system.
by
PDBeal
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Printing
Reduce the mass of your print head. I get the ringing effect on my direct drive titan extruder and going to a pancake stepper reduced the ringing substantially. On my Bowden CoreXY, it has no ringing in the print.
by
PDBeal
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General
Your config section you posted it configured to use 192.168.1.14, yet your testing is all showing 192.168.1.12. To connect to the printer, you need to be trying to connect to 192.168.1.14.
You said your mac was 192.168.1.12
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PDBeal
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Duet
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the heatbed in the Prusa i3 MK2 uses a custom sensor that's much smaller than the normal inductive probes out on the market?
The 9 probe point I think are designed against their custom sensor, a larger sensor might work, but isn't going to be as accurate as their custom sensor considering the size difference of the sensing circle. So even having the MK42 heat bed isn
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PDBeal
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General
One thing to note, there are what I'd call idiot proof 3D printers, but they are far from cheap. My old company had such a printer. It was a Stratsys uPrint SE machine. It was great, it would print anything and everything you threw at it primarily because it ran material and support material all the time. It was deadly accurate too, but used they're software.
Now the downside, it was expensive.
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PDBeal
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General
If you go into preferences on Cura and make it show you all the values it will show you what it's calculated for your wall thickness and such. One of those might have rounded the wrong way or be highlighted red showing an issue.
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PDBeal
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Reprappers
Quoteo_lampe
I'm no fan of "cloud " services anyway...
That made me laugh. What do you think DropBox is/was.
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PDBeal
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General
You won't be able to use the RAMPS board at 24V without some reworking and component replacements.
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PDBeal
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RAMPS Electronics
Quotenebbian
Their 3:1 gear ratio is perfect, the gears are a lot lighter and thinner than a planetary gearbox, and it's an extremely well designed piece of kit. The filament path through the extruder is very well thought out. You pull the lever and push the filament through. It just goes straight through, no poking around at all. I haven't tried a long print with flexibles, but I think it sh
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PDBeal
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General
Desite the fact I prefer Cura, I had better luck using the prusa version of slic3r with regards to not crashing with everything it opened. You can download it from , and during installation just select slic3r and skip the rest of the stuff they include.
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PDBeal
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Printing
For anyone not reading the duet3d.com forums, DC42 answered it:
Quotedc42
M555 only affects responses sent to the USB port. The default was changed to Marlin compatibility many versions ago. So you don't need it.
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PDBeal
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Duet
I posted this over on the duet3d.com forums, but thought it might be useful to other people over here also.
I was looking over a few of the configuration files the other day and noticed the M555 P2 line in my config.g files on all 4 CoreXY printers. This got me wondering, is there really any point to M555 P2? I'm not using Pronterface, Repetier host, Octopi, USB control or anything like that.
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PDBeal
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Duet
I've had very good luck with this one from Amazon. It only fires up the fan when it needs to so it's not noisy all the time, and it's been working like a champ. I've got 2 running in 2 different printers, and it was very inexpensive option to start with.
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PDBeal
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Reprappers
It would be interesting to talk to the folks at E3D and figure out why they designed the Titan for 3:1 ratio. I know they had said something in terms of being capable of having enough force and being able to keep up with feedrates for the Volcano nozzles.
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PDBeal
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General
I think it has to do with some of the larger 3mm filament. I believe it takes a lot of force and torque for 3mm PLA. Most of this is negligible with 1.75mm filament, but different filaments do take more or less torque than others. I imagine, people just use the geared extruders to either use smaller motors (NEMA17 pancake steppers or NEMA14 motors) to save weight.
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PDBeal
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General
One thing to note, the Hatchbox PETG temps that are printed on the side are only guidelines. I've had better luck controlling strings if I print at 230 or 235 which was lower than what is printed on the side of Hatchbox PETG spools, but the biggest thing is printing below 30mm/s. Anything faster and it doesn't seem to like it very much. I had some nice looking parts that were very brittle beca
by
PDBeal
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General
Your blobs look like start/stop points as best as I can tell from the picture. Try slice something in Cura 2.3.1 which I found to have much better toolpaths than the Cura 15 versions.
by
PDBeal
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Printing