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Printing issues ...
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Hi PDBeal,
Sorry for my late answer
As long as the Sentinel is installed before an extruder, bowden or direct-drive, it will work. The PTFE tube doesn't actually need to go up to the extruder. The two fittings hold PTFE inside the sentinel, which can be extended based on the user setup.
The Sentinel has two mounting holes, you can install it on any flat surface very easily!
Hope it helped!
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Dyze_Design
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Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Hi Guys!
I'd like to share with you our latest project; a filament detector and cleaner.
It seemed like missing a print due to either an empty spool or a broken filament was a common problem, so we did our best to offer a simple solution to this problem.
Check the link below!
Kickstarter Link
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Dyze_Design
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Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Quotedc42Thanks. You didn't give the holding torque of the motor at its rated current, but from looking at other motors of similar size I estimate it is about 18Ncm. Assuming it is a standard 1.8deg/step motor, this gives a product of steps/mm and torque of 11610, which is in the middle of my recommended range of 8000 to 14000. So IMO the gear ratio is about right for the design.
We have chosen
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Dyze_Design
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For Sale
Hi Guys!
Thanks for your comments. I'd like to take the time to reply them all, please see my answers below!
QuotePDBeal
For it being twice the price of the E3D Titan extruder with a higher gear ratio, what makes it better (if it is better)?
The DyzeXtruder has many great features and is designed for a maximum reliability. The Titan does a great job for a great price, but some customer require
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Dyze_Design
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For Sale
Hi Guys!
We are specialized in high-end 3D printer hotends and extruder. We'd like to show you our newest product: The DyzeXtruder GT
We've been working hard to get all those features to this new extruder:
Dual Pinch 5.65:1 Gear Reduction Quick Release Groove Mount Latch and Latch holder for easy filament removal And many more!
You can check a timelapse printed with this extruder here:
Or
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Dyze_Design
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For Sale
Hi Guys!
I'd like to share with you a video we've made testing our new extruder!
The link is here:
Keep updated, we will release it real soon!
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Dyze_Design
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General
Thanks for both of your comments!
aussiephil, as you can see, the bigger the thermistor is, the faster the response time. The 0.3mm thermistor has a response time of 0.8 seconds while the 0.58 has 1.7 seconds.Same thing applies to thermocouple and RTD inside their probe. The larger the probe, the longer the thermal constant. A 6.35mm housing can take more than 30 seconds to reach 62% of the temp
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi dc42!
I'm glad you like it.
I found it on a spec sheet:
The link is added to the source.
I must say, I'm on your side regarding the accuracy, as the thermistor will drift more than the RTD with time, and 0.1°C is pretty low overall. The more I try to find data regarding sensors, the more I find different values and misleading information! I even found a datasheet that would state a thermos
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Dyze_Design
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General
Quoteaussiephil
Good start but personally I'd like to see the table include the 32 bit boards separately, as it stands it tells the Newbie that a Duet board falls into the Ramps 1.4 basket due to the way the pictures sit above the table....... not even close
DC42 is right in that calibrated accuracy is important but in my humble opinion more for that ability to provide accurate temps to the r
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Dyze_Design
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General
Quotedc42
A nice article, but inaccurate in places:
Many thanks!
You've made great points and I thank you for sharing this information with us. I will take the time to improve this blog based on your comments. Below are my explanations regarding your remarks.
Quotedc42- The electronics table is not right, because Duet electronics can use RTDs and thermocouples as well as thermistors. The new Du
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi!
Very interesting project.
I'm not sure about using self adhesive tape. You may have problem with adhesive and smoke at 100°C.
Regarding the heatbed, is there a reason why you want to get such high power from 12V? Why not building something from AC instead of DC?
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Dyze_Design
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Reprappers
Hi everyone!
I've just started writing a blog post about temperature sensor used in 3D printers.
This first part is very introductive, part 2 will be more technical. Part 3 will be about our 500°C thermistor and general question we have regarding sensors.
I'd like to hear your opinion about it!
Here is the link:
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi!
I think I found your problem. You need to supply current to your RAMPS board. There are 4 screw terminals that need to be connected to a power supply, usually a 12V PSU.
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Dyze_Design
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General
V^2 / R can be faster next time, but you've got it right!
800W... either it must be pretty big, or you want it to heat super quickly!
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Dyze_Design
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Reprappers
Make sure your SSR doesn't overheat, but I would doubt it
These things are usually capable of driving high current. 350W is a little bit over 3A so there should not be problems!
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Dyze_Design
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Reprappers
Mica band can be another economic solution.
With the proper thickness, Kapton can hold it without problems.
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Dyze_Design
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General
Where did you bought your panel?
Also, are you 100% sure about the EXP cables you connected?
Regards,
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Dyze_Design
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General
If you have a friend with a 3D printer, it is possible to make a bracket for this lead screw.
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi!
I suggest to try with repetier or pronterface. If it doesn't work, the problem might come from your machine.
We will need more information about your printer to help you better.
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Dyze_Design
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General
I'm pretty sure it is a one use fuse. The resettable fuses are pretty big usually, they require a surface area greater than any other fuse due to the crystal inside.
You might need to check where it is and manually resolder it!
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Dyze_Design
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General
It seems like something might be wrong after the 12V terminals.
I have checked the schematics available on reprap.org and there is a 12A fuse right after the 12V input (25A for the bed). Check if you can find it and if there is continuity with your multimeter.
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Dyze_Design
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General
We frequently buy from amazon.ca due to their "free 2 days shipping" and we have great results with MG chemicals and Hatchbox.
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Dyze_Design
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General
Actually, carbide is very hard to be 3D printed since it is a ceramic. Most tungsten carbide tools are actually tungsten carbide "powder" bonded by cobalt (WC-Co).
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi!
First, you will need to trick a few parameters.
#define EXTRUDERS 1 -> 2
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0 -> I'm not exactly sure about this parameter, but I would choose a sensor that would give you a flat reading since you don't need it. You can manually add a thermistor table with fixed values.
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5 -> Change it to a value below your custom thermistor table.
Comment
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Dyze_Design
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General
Hi Kafledelius!
Since most slicer are open-source, you can add an issue to the bug tracking github. I suggest to suggest to check if there is an ABL in the starting Gcode, then adjust the starting point of the print.
However, I think it may be tricky because there are few algorithms available for ABL, so I'm not sure if each one end up at the same place.
You may want to play inside your firmwa
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Dyze_Design
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General
Did you do any hardware changes before you changed your firmware? Or the problem arrived when you flashed your firmware?
Can you heat your hotend? If it doesn't heat, your problem comes from your power.
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Dyze_Design
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General
hi!
First, try uninstall it and reinstall it. You might have a older config file somewhere that is causing it to react badly.
Second, check if the filament has the same temperature configuration as before. Maybe the standard temperature for PLA has changed.
For stopping like this, it might be a communication problem too, you can check your cable.
Hope it helped!
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Dyze_Design
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General
See here for your reference:
You need to find a free analog pin in order to assign it to your firmware. The Rumba board schematic will point the available pin number.
Look for EXP3, it shouldn't be used, I think.
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Dyze_Design
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General
Ok, it looks like your EEPROM aren't activated.
We will need to use the firmware. Can you paste the error you get when trying to upload the firmware?
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Dyze_Design
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General
e-steps are simple "Extruder steps per mm".
If your firmware is configured to give access to EEPROM, you can change it very quickly in Repetier. Hit Config / Firmware EEPROM Configuration
You will see the according steps/mm for your extruder.
You can see a guide here for fine tuning the values:
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Dyze_Design
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General
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