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Printing issues ...
Or, relatively easy. I have this driver connected:
But it seems weird. With it's common GND, it seems it wants to receive +5V signals. But don't our set-ups work inverted, common +5V and signals being GND? Like if we want to enable, we connect the negative enable pin to GND? I think I should invert the above drawing, connecting CLK+, CW+ and EN+ to a 5V, and giving the CLK-, CW- and EN- the si
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
!!! FOUND IT !!!
I have a big external driver, via a an extension board. I disconnected that yesterday late to do some mechanical work this morning. I did your prescribed test and all functioned, but I didn't reconnect the external driver yet. And not only your test file works now, everything does. It seems the external driver sets the enable to 5V, and that spreads over all drivers. I need to f
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks, that makes sense.
I just wired up the 3 end stops, checked them, inverted the settings, checked again, all working fine.
I am happy you told me 'enable' should be low to activate the drivers. That makes me think it's firmware, so correctable. How else would that pin get energized.
I got the test code, thanks. I disconnected the hot end, uploaded it and it all moved! So again, it's some
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Wiring checked, all OK.
Tried to move via LCD, the system thinks it moved but the motors just aren't energized.
Checked configuration.h for the thousandst time, I cannot find it.
I'd like to stick with the simple Marlin, but I'll look into Repetier Host. Never heard of that before.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi,
for some odd reason, I cannot get my machine to move. I tried a lot, the machine thinks it moves (changes x, y and z dimensions on the LCD), the hot-end works for real, but the motors are not energized. I hope I did something wrong in the Marlin set-up, but I cannot find it. Would someone be so kind as to send me a working CoreXY Marlin set-up to upload to the Arduino Mega? The settings don'
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HugoW
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CoreXY Machines
Just tried; the motors are not energized. Their turn just as easy by hand with the system powered up, as when the system switched off. BTW, I don't have the end switches plugged in yet.
Hugo
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HugoW
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
I wired my RAMPS 1.4 this morning and there is something amiss. But I cannot figure it out. What I have:
- RAMPS 1.4
- Marlin firmware downloaded only last week, CoreXY defined, steps per unit defined, all nice.
- A4988 drivers, set at 0,6V.
- Pronterface on the PC to try to get the machine to move.
- I checked on the A4988s, VMOT is 24V, GND is indeed the negative connector of the power sou
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HugoW
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Firmware - Marlin
Hi,
I wired my RAMPS 1.4 this morning and there is something amiss. But I cannot figure it out. What I have:
- RAMPS 1.4
- Marlin firmware, CoreXY defined, steps per unit defined, all nice.
- A4988 drivers, set at 0,6V, they get their 24V properly (it's a 24V system with the diode from the RAMPS removed and a buck converter used to feed the Arduino).
- Pronterface on the PC to try to get the mac
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
It's not hooked up yet...
by
HugoW
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General
I would go for a CoreXY machine, I'm building one with a 400x400x300 range and I could easily see it scaled up a bit more. For the bed I use tooling plate. I choose 400x400 (plate is slightly bigger to fit mountings to) because I can fit 4 200x200 hot end plates. In your case going for 600x800 would allow for 12(!) of those standard plates. Hmmmm, you'll need a nice power source... Better look in
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HugoW
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General
Quotethe_digital_dentist ... With those buck converters (and many other types of DC-DC converters) you have to be careful- many are designed so that the input and output have to be isolated and will not work right or may be damaged or destroyed if you connect the input to the output. For example, unless the data sheet says it is safe to do so, don't connect the converter's negative input termina
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HugoW
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General
Thanks for the input. I plan to use PLA a lot, so I'll use separate fans. I'll mount the heat sink 90 degrees from it's current position to avoid air from the heatsink / fan interfearing with the air cooling the print. Is the PWM fan control something standard in Marlin?
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
Just a thought. I have tossed the diode in the bin, but now I want to re-instate it because I have replaced the voltage regulator. Would I really need a diode? The only use I see for it is to drop some voltage across it, which is not required now I have an LM7805 in place (can take 35V in).
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi,
I have an MK8 Extruder J-head Hotend, something like this:
And I have no object cooler. I am considering to replace the current fan and screen with a solid plate, and place a radial fan on top of the heat sink. So the air blows through it. I think this will be more effective as the centre of the current fan, as on the pic, covers a large area of the heat sink without moving air over it. W
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HugoW
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General
Well, things change over time. Photobucket screws up, so I cannot show the pic, but I think I can link it:
Click for pic
So I hope you can click it and see my progress. I bought the frame bits second hand from someone who gave up, it's nice stuff and fits well. It limits the motion to 340 x 290 x 300mm, but that is OK for now. The bits for the table and Z-movement are on the slow boat from Chin
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HugoW
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General
Hi,
I've splashed out on a few 8 and 12 mm linear bearings, simple LMxxUU stuff. Should I degrease those, are they packed with some concervasion stuff, and pack regrease with something else to make them run smooth and last (although the latter is relative)? I know I do on regular ball bearings I use for RC car racing, but these items are very different.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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Mechanics
Never mind...
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
The 3-legged part just above the auxillary power socket, right?
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Great, thanks, that makes a lot of sense. I'll check the item and see what I can do. If the regulator is a replaceble item for me that sounds like a good option. I'll solder the diode back onto the RAMPS if that works.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
No endstops, yet. Only the thermosistor for the hotend, as I would like to read the temperature to check the settings before firing up anything else.
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
'Unfortunately' I removed the right one, the one under the stepper motor driver. The one next to the fuses is still in place. If I loaded the Marlin firmware correctly and power everything up, should the LCD read something?
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Hello all,
I've just wired up my RAMPS 1.4, removed the diode and replaced the fuses with 'normal' ones. I have no stepper motors hooked up yet, the drivers are in place. There is no hot-end or any sensors attached. The MEGA is of course and the LCD with memory card reader is. BTW, I have two off board larger drivers, attached via extension boards. I configured and uploaded the latest Marlin to
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HugoW
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks, great. Why didn't my google search show that?
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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Controllers
Hi,
in order for my RAMPS 1.4 to drive two NEMA 23 motors I chose to buy two of these:
and two of these:
The combo should work, but I have some settings to do on the driver:
- I start with 1A current to the motors, on 24V I hope that will suffice. The drivers can go up to 3A. I already added a fan to the heat sink.
- There is an 'excitation mode' setting where I can chose 1, 2, 8 or 16. I gue
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HugoW
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Controllers
What part of solid 12mm rails is flexibele?
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
Well, did I mention this would be a slow build? It is... I did some dumpster diving last week at the factory I work at and retrieved some rather large but usefull alloy. So, I can now start assembling the lot.
See you again in a month or two!
Cheers,
Hugo
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HugoW
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General
There are no ceramic caps on my RAMPS, just the 9 elcos which are all rated 35V. Looking at the schematic I can also not find any other caps. Where should I look?
I think the combo if Chinees silkscreening, my bad eyesight and bad lighting in the evening might have had some bad effects... It is indeed D1 I need to replace, the one under the X-driver.
Well, they need some sort of load to loose t
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HugoW
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Controllers
OK, good suggestion, in that case a 15V 5W zener (1N5352B ) would do the trick. That is only one diode, direct replacement for the D2, 300mA capable. Onto the shopping list!
Hugo
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HugoW
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Controllers