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Printing issues ...
Re: Experiences with building and using the E3D Titan extruder (Bowden) - 8 years ago
Quotedlc60 Quotejinx heres a mount with a 3mm spacing if that fails you can find a 2 mm spacer titan mount Thanks for your effort! The E3D site has a SCAD file that allows you to gen the spacer you require. So I made a 3mm one that now allows the stepper spur gear to sit low enough to be flush with the extruder gear. I rebuild my Titan with a longer bolt that bottoms out in the extruder shaftby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: carriage wheels for 1515 extrusions? - 8 years ago
Quoteo_lampe I'd use linear rails like mgn9 instead of the 1515 towers. That way you gain a lot of printarea and the carriers can be much smaller too. OTOH,you could probably replace the bearings in the wheels to match M4 screws. Your bearing idea is pretty. Good. The rails are a non-starter however, I am crafting a truly desktop Kossel that is only 30cm tall and rails are spendy, and not allby dlc60 - Reprappers
carriage wheels for 1515 extrusions? - 8 years ago
I am building a "tiny" desktop Kossel Delta using 1515 extrusions. I have done some of my own pieces, but found a project on Thingiverse whose carriages use wheels whose bore is m4. My carriage wheels are m5, so my choices are roll my own carriage for m5 bore wheels or find out where to get nylon rollers like the common Kossel m5 bore wheels, that are m4 bore. So. Do such things as nylon wheelsby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotexyze Quotedlc60 Oh, if anyone out there uses BuildTak, what do you do when removing a part pulls "dimples" in the surface? Is there any way to get it flat again or do I just have to pull it off and burn another $10 to replace it? Thanks, DLC Don't use BuildTak. I could not get a sheet of BuildTak to last for even one roll of filament without forming dimples on the surface. Buy a sheet ofby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quoteetfrench Quote691175002 (I wish slicers would let you define a per-filament scaling factor because sometimes I forget to print ABS at 100.6%. I mean I could change my firmware steps/mm but that screws up prints in other plastics and is a pretty dirty hack that could have other consequences.) Slic3r makes it easy to have multiple config files for different filaments. So does Simplify3D, yby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
I think you are correct. My efforts do not insulate well enough to heat the interior. I put "mouse ears" on my print and it stays mostly flat, but still curls. I get cracks in the main body too AND I have to chisel the part off of the BuildTak, Ahh!!! I may have to dedicate a machine to JUST do ABS and put it in an oven to temperature control it. I thought that putting walls all around wouldby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quote691175002 I print almost exclusively ABS. With the brands I've been using the build chamber must be >45c and <50c. I have a vent at the top of my enclosure that is partially blocked by a piece of cardboard. I leave a multimeter thermocouple in the chamber and open/close the vent to adjust temperature. In my experience there is really no way to reliably print ABS if the chamber is &by dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 What temperature does the chamber reach? Perhaps it's still too low to prevent warping effectively. The last temperature I took at the end of the print was 31C. I'll have to attach a print of the piece. It looks pretty well stuck to the bed, with a little warping, but the big problem is that about every 30 layers or so the print cracked, big time. ☹️ If the part warps, the model doesnby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
In the ongoing saga of getting ABS to print I have found something that works, mostly well. I do not believe that perfection is possible. I hate this stuff... But, I have fully enclosed my delta printer (see image). I tried rotating the part so that the infill was different. I dropped the hotend temperature 5 degrees (250 to 245) and raised the bed temperature to 110 C. AND added BuildTak toby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan Yep, that is what I meant. Changing the offsets so they aren't pulling on the effected areas as much. I am going to try this. I already completely enclose my printer and I just put a "BuildTak" surface on the bed. I will add this angle change to the process and see what happens. Thanks!, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Experiences with building and using the E3D Titan extruder (Bowden) - 8 years ago
Quotejinx heres a mount with a 3mm spacing if that fails you can find a 2 mm spacer titan mount Thanks for your effort! The E3D site has a SCAD file that allows you to gen the spacer you require. So I made a 3mm one that now allows the stepper spur gear to sit low enough to be flush with the extruder gear. I rebuild my Titan with a longer bolt that bottoms out in the extruder shaft hole, withby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan I just looked at your list of tried "fixes", but one that I didn't see was either changing the orientation of the part on the build plate or changing your layer directions. Have you tried any of those? I have not. I assume you mean the infill angle offsets? I use Simplify3D as my slicer/printer. Interesting idea! I have not tried either of these, it simply didn't occur to meby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Experiences with building and using the E3D Titan extruder (Bowden) - 8 years ago
Quotejinx "but you can't put a heat sink on the stepper like I could on the Thing that I built, which is a drag" reduce the current to the driver, I've ran 3 T clones for 18 hrs a day and the stepper just dont get hot enough to warrant a heatsink on the stepper. as for the bolt coming loose you sure you put it in the right hole, first time ever read about one coming loose. I needed higher cuby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
I may not yet have perfected ABS, but what I have learned has me now printing perfect PLA without heating the plate at all. I print right on glass using Elmers Extra school glue stick. For tricky ones I print at 60C on Kapton tape with glue stick and need to chisel the parts off. Next is PETg when I get ABS down. Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan Do you live in the states? I have some injection molded corners from an HE3D delta that I don't need any more. There are 9 pieces in total. I am building a new flavor designed by some guys at Microchip whose design does some different stuff. For one, they put the psu under the deck and electronics outside. That boosts the deck up a bit so I will need these corners. Thanks forby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan Sometimes it is the filament that causes the issue. I have a roll of black ABS from Hatchbox that warps like heck on a long run, but the same part with other ABS filaments, does fine. Try lowering your layer height too. .2427 (yep, weird number, but proven to work with Deltas) and try again. I have an enclosed printer that I use exclusively for ABS and run the bed at 110° andby dlc60 - Reprappers
Experiences with building and using the E3D Titan extruder (Bowden) - 8 years ago
What do the people out there think of the E3D titan geared extruder? I got the universal kit and sketched up my own Bowden adapter, I didn't think theirs was worth $16 just to make it a Bowden. My hack works fine. I will start out the discussion. I got one of these a couple of weeks ago to replace my DIY geared extruder that was made of PLA because I wanted to enclose my printer for ABS printby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotedlc60 Yes, this is a delta printer, leveling the bed is half hardware and half firmware. Measuring from the tower limit switches to the bed, all are the same. I have adjusted the end effector radius and rod lengths until my three tower points and the center report less than 0.1mm difference, worse case. This is about as level as you can get a delta printer. An incredibly tediouby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotewaitaki You haven't told us what your nozzle gap is set at and if your bed has been truly leveled? Major contributors to print problems if they are not correct. Hmm, nope, I guess that I just assumed that since every tutorial, manual and video starts out with that advice, it would be foolish to ignore it. Yes, this is a delta printer, leveling the bed is half hardware and half firmware. Mby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
Quotecwaa I also use a 120 volt bed heater and it heats up faster than my hot end. I have an enclosure that I use in the winter, but all the rest of the time I print ABS without one. How does one control a mains powered heater? Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: FLSUN Kossel Building Tips and Problems - 8 years ago
I just got one of these when 3D Printers Bay put the base model on sale for $160. I added the heated bed and slide rails to my buy. I needed some components for a custom build delta and it was cheaper for me to buy this kit and not use half of the parts than order ala-carte parts from around the globe! I have custom corners, base plate hardware, extruder, end effector and and E3D 3mm filamentby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
All good suggestions, but I have some questions. How do you get the beds that hot? It is all my system can do to reach 105C, and that takes half an hour at least. If you don't use a glass topper for the bed (so it is really flat, aluminum beds are always warped in slight amounts) do you apply your tape/slurry directly to the bed plate? If you use some other liner for the bed, how do you holdby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: If you could get any part AT COST - What would you want? - 8 years ago
QuoteMechaBits Linear Rails(guides) with thru holes on carriage. I second this one. In the US, these are crazy expensive, and I HATE delrin and shower door rollers! Then, maybe cheaper Rambo boards. These controllers ROCK! DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Woes of ABS and part warping - 8 years ago
I have no problems getting PLA to print on blue tape without warping - no surprise, but I am designing a custom delta and need to use something tougher than PLA for the plastic pieces, so I am working with ABS. One word. Ick. Nothing but warping and splitting between layers. This is my 3D printer: I started middle of the road at 240C and bed at 100C on Kapton with Aquanet Super Hold and an iby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: E3D V6 random clog and unclog - 8 years ago
I just got a new E3D hot end. I had this problem and initially solved it by raising the temperature 30 degrees. The next time I had the problem I needed to replace the nozzle. The NEXT time I had the problem I solved it by reducing my print speed. These solutions were cumulative and the last solution was filament related. The filament was a little softer than the PLA+ that I was using before.by dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: List of woes after updating to E3D v6 - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan That is exactly what I have, but people get confused if they don't know exactly what it is. Get a spoon to hold the nozzle. Sounds simple enough. thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: List of woes after updating to E3D v6 - 8 years ago
Quotenumber40fan If you have a way to heat the nozzle up to high temps, you can burn out the PLA. I use a propane torch and it will vaporize the PLA and leave you with a perfectly clean nozzle. I have a MAP gas torch, that should work. Thanks, DLCby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: incorrect hotend temperature reading - 8 years ago
Quotewaitaki I guess you are using PLA? I make my own hot ends based on the E3D design - with some differences but.. I print mainly in ABS. PLA can cause havoc in many types of hot-end and I wouldn't be surprised if the Prometheus has its problems also -not that I would know. If I use PLA, I am very concious of the fact that it can't be left hanging around in the heater block. To this end, I getby dlc60 - Reprappers
Re: incorrect hotend temperature reading - 8 years ago
Quotewaitaki Quotecwaa I am not trying to start an argument, but two years ago I was trying to decide what hot end to put on my new printer. I chose the Prometheus. I have yet to have it clog or jam. I am now printing in two colors with it as well. Not sure that's gonna help the original poster! Nope, but it makes me cringe since I chose the E3Dv6 over the Prometheus, and am feeling like I bby dlc60 - Reprappers
List of woes after updating to E3D v6 - 8 years ago
First off, to be clear, I'm not asking for help, just providing a running story of the saga of updating my Folgertech Kossel 2020 from its hot end to an E3D v6 all metal hot end. One day my trusty Folgertech Kossel 2020 stopped being able to print anything without jamming, after another rebuild-it session the PTFE liner popped out the bottom looking like my dog had been chewing on it. I had reby dlc60 - Reprappers