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Printing issues ...
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I haven't had any issues with the build so far.
However, I am now ready to add the second extruder and while I am at it I will redesign the belt path.
Does anyone happen to know if there is a "ps on" pin on the makeboard mini?
I am trying to add a cnc shield v3 board but finding it difficult to find a12/d66 for the cnc shield board.
I am trying to avoid buying a new board altogether especiall
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jaded
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General New Machines Topics
Quoteo_lampe
You'll get problems with belt tension, when the parts of the belts that changes length aren't aligned parallel. I marked in red, how it should be.
I was concerned about that too. I have done a handful of prints now with the system to include a 3 hour job yesterday. I have been keeping an eye on the belts and tension and so far all appears to be in working order. I am not saying
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jaded
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General New Machines Topics
Hello all.
I wanted to play with a different kinematic system and I was interested in nicholas sewards corexz build but wanted something a bit bigger scale compared to my anet a8's.
I came across the micromake c1 hbot kit and while it was not a "true corexz" I examined the contents (online) and determined that it would be a good starting point to build my corexz printer.
The kit itself was che
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jaded
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General New Machines Topics
Make sure your nozzle gap is correct (bed leveling).
Try first layer height at 0.3mm.
If you are using slic3r set the first layer extrusion width to 200%.
Set infill before perimeters.
Perimeters to 3.
Try slowing down your first layer speeds.
Check your temperatures (bed and hotend).
Make sure your extrusion rate multiplier in your slicer (I use slic3r) is correct to your hardware feedrat
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jaded
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Printing
@ruggb
Do you have more information you would like to share?
If I need to change sensors that's fine but I would like to get the most accurate one for my situation.
Thanks.
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
QuoteRoxy
Inductive probes suck. But it doesn't matter.... If you use the inductive probe to auto probe a mesh, you can always correct any part of the mesh that is not 100% accurate.
After breaking down I dug into the documentation and deciphered the cryptic and vague descriptions of all the commands needed. Suffice it to say it indeed required more work than I believed it should have been
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
The goal is to achieve this
The results is after many tear downs and rebuilds, pulling hair and verifying that my build was solid to begin with I cannot get this level of performance from marlin and auto level.
I can get it close but it always requires more work than I think it needs. Using bilinear. I have not gone to ubl because it still requires me to edit the mesh.
My question too is ho
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
Quotemadmike8
Look for Skynet Firmware for Anet
Actually skynet is obsolete.
Marlin now has anet a8 configs.
Op, yes marlin will allow eeprom settings. However, have you tried changing the extrusion rate in your slicer first? My anet a8's would over extrude in stock form. Even in marlin I set my slicer extrusion multiplier lower than 100%.
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
Ahhh I see now. You basically mounted the bed with three points for manual bed level.
I have been using autolevel with inductive sensors for so long I don't touch the bed anymore. And even if the level seems off I just reset the plane and save and print again.
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'm interested in the 3 point level plane you spoke of. How exactly is that accomplished?
I have two anet a8's that I have modded and I am thoroughly satisfied. They are cheap kits price wise but are awesome overall.
I also am still using all stock electronics (motors, motherboard, heat bed, psu) and no extra electronics like mosfets.
I honestly think alot of issues that pop up on most hobby
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
AFAIK,
My bed level data is saved to eeprom. Using the command "M420 V" shows probe data and "Bed leveling Off". The probe data on eeprom persists with a G28 because my start gcode always issues G28 before a print job. After the G28 my gcode enables the bed level grid and it starts printing.
All of this should be in the docs somewhere as that is where I found how to set z offsets, save to ee
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
All of three seconds to search. With the number of results I find it hard to believe that you only found one design and the designer is charging.
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
If you use the console to send the g29 code the results are printed out in console.
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
The error tells you what to do...only enable one type of printer configuration. It is telling you that all those printer configurations are enabled but only one active is allowed.
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
If your prints are that good with your setup now why go to another kit that you would have to retweak again?
You have a good setup and if you want to print more at the same time having two of the same just saves time in creating slicer profiles.
Now, you can still get another printer if you wanted to play with another kit but personally I chose to use two of the same kits to print more volume o
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
I'll be honest...I own two anet a8's modded with steel frames and bowden extruders with e3dv6.
Beyond the steel frame and e3dv6, everything else is stock. Motherboards, power supplies, motors, heatbed, even the heating element and thermistors on the e3dv6 are the stock items.
I don't have mosfets installed and both my printers have been able to complete multiple 10+ hour print jobs.
I'm not s
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
Quotekmxsoft
Thanks all - some good info there which I am very grateful for.
I downloaded and installed Repetier host. Now Arduino is refusing to upload new firmware to the printer - it compiles fine but fails with a timeout on upload. This is new, previously I had no problem with uploading. Have removed and reinstalled Arduino thinking that would reinstall the driver, but it didn't. I can see t
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
Thanks roxy.
I have no problems overall using bilinear. I guess after converting to bowden/e3d I can see more of the bed now under the nozzle due to the relocation of fans and ducts. This allowed me to see how the gap looks as the nozzle tracks along the bed.
I played with the settings more and managed to get a mesh (with some bed persuasion) that prints great.
Again though, it would be grea
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
Along the lines of ubl...
I have been reading whatever documentation and old threads I can dig up and (due to the age of what I found) I am still a bit confused on ubl.
I am currently using the latest skynet3d firmware which is based on marlin for my anet a8 printers.
Skynet3d has the option to use ubl but it was easier and faster for me to setup bilinear leveling.
I have tested my inductive
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
Skynet is your better bet on the anet a8 for auto leveling.
Temperature control is stable and consistent on my two anet a8's after switching to pid control. I am using autoleveling with skynet.
You have to do some of the work to configure skynet but compared to the a8-l firmware (where it is closed source) you have free reign over how it behaves espcecially when you need to configure bed dimen
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jaded
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Printing
Did you install the serial driver that came with the printer? Have you tried using repetier host that came with the printer?
I have no issues talking to my anet a8 printers using win10 and repetier (host and server).
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
In marlin I had to configure my z zero position.
When homing it would always stop a distance away from the bed but when sending G1 Z0 it would not touch the bed until I configured the offset.
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
Layer heights affect print time too. 0.4mm will print faster than 0.2mm at the expense of resolution/detail.
I have my anet a8 with steel frame set to print at a max 90mm/s but it never actually gets that fast due to the other speed settings I set (first layer, perimeters etc.).
I usually print at 0.2mm layer height but my first layer width/height is set to 0.4mm and my infill widths are set t
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
Hello,
I have recently upgraded my two anet a8 printers with skynet3d based on marlin 1.1.
The upgrade was to use auto level.
Auto level works on both printers and the firmware works as intended/expected.
I am noticing some differences between the marlin firmware and the stock anet a8 firmware which I would like to regain.
The first one is the temperature readout. I manage both my printers
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jaded
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Firmware - Marlin
I have had good luck with 4 bearings, others may not have. YMMV. I once found a dxf file on thingiverse (can't remember the user) where the user adjusted the p3steel bed to hold with scs8uu bearings or the lm8uu bearings. Again you could use that (if you found it) for the dimensions.
Are you hand milling the bed frame? What material are you using for the frame?
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
FreeCAD, OpenCAD, tinkerCAD etc are free options. There's a handful of free cad software but whether they allow importing dxf I would not know.
Your other option would be to try to reinstall the pro trial of sketchup but I found that sketchup actually breaks more things when importing/exporting dxf.
As for dimensions I would think the bed frame for the p3steel frames should suit you well. Gra
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jaded
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Prusa i3 and variants
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