Show all posts by user
Printing issues ...
The 12V power is the black and yellow wires in those pictures. If you are powering this from an ATX supply, then you can just select a yellow and black wire and connect them.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General
No, but you might be able to use M226, assuming that the host software recognizes that this is a pause command and can issue the resume command. Last time I saw this being discussed, it was done by splitting the files.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General Mendel Topics
The extruder tip shouldn't be a problem, so long as the part can fit into a convex hole. You simply stop the print at the top of the hole, insert the object, and keep printing. This is usually done by splitting the gcode file in two at that layer, print the first half, insert the nut, and print the second file. For best results, heat the object and press into a very slightly undersize hold as de
by
Andrew Smith
-
General Mendel Topics
There are a few of those motors on ebay. If you can trust an ebay seller, they are indeed NEMA17 motors, and they have enough torque to run a reprap. They might just need more current.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
Gen6 is a complete solution, no arduino needed.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General
Its should be just under a single layer height above the bed. Don't let it touch.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General Mendel Topics
I wouldn't recommend using a PSU still running a PC to do it though. PCs are susceptible to noise, and a reprap may generate enough to cause problems. Also, if its not a custom built PC then it probably has the cheapest possible PSU that will run the computer, and you might not have 50W to spare. Better to pick up a cheap ATX PSU.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General
You won't have any problems for the most part, but the 25s will be too long to mount a motor to the standard brackets. You could cut them down or add spacers to take up the extra 5mm easily enough.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General Mendel Topics
The metal rod is just plain round 8mm rod, preferably in a decent grade of steel. The studding has M8 threads on it. Imperial designs exist if you have or can obtain imperial parts more easily. We don't use ballscrews or any other type of proper leadscrew, since they have cost and availability issues, particularly outside the US. The leadscrews on Z-axis use the same M8 studding as the frame doe
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
The mendel print volume is 20cm*20cm*14cm. You may get slightly more or less on Z axis depending on how long your extruder is.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General Mendel Topics
It should work without a problem - Darwin is still a cartesian bot driven by three NEMA17 steppers, plus an extruder.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Controllers
Check the schematic:
There are only two LEDs on the board, the green one is in the power supply circuit and not controlled by the processor at all. It should always be lit when the board is powered. It might be worth checking that area for a bad connection.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
If you check the schematics, the A6 and A7 headers are identical, so choose one and set up the firmware to suit.
As for installing the firmware, instructions are here:
I'm not sure if the official firmware supports thermocouples, last time I looked it didn't but had remnant code that suggested it did. If it still won't compile when set up for firmwares, use the alternate firmware from here:
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
I have the ones he used to do, cast in polyester. These are probably less brittle, but it looks like he's using the same masters which means the drive pulleys will still be pretty poor and the X-axis vertical nut traps will still need a lot of work.
You'll likely get a working machine from these parts, but it'll take more effort than it would with printed parts.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General
The thermocouple goes onto the header marked A6 or A7 on the extruder board. You will need to rewrite or find an altered firmware to read from the thermocouple on pin 6 or 7 rather than the thermistor. Double check the pinouts because you can easily blow the chip if you connect the board wrong.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
I think that's new, or at least I haven't seen it mentioned before.
I believe that techzone have recently sorted out their customer service side, and the quality issues which plagued their gen3 remix should not be an issue on a new board since the cause was fired long ago. On the downside, I can't find any documentation on it beyond the description on the techzone site, so if it goes wrong nobo
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
They are simple enough to make, and compatible with any extruder with a threaded barrel. None of the alignments are critical so they can be done with a hand drill and a vice. The resistor is the heating element and should be roughly the same resistance as the nichrome heating elements you are building now. You may need to disable PID control in the extruder firmware, you need to find the gain set
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
You might have better luck with nopheads heater block design:
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
Do you have java installed on the system? If not, get it. If so, post the exact error message you get.
by
Andrew Smith
-
General
People have printed mendel parts on makerbots before now without a problem.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
extruder.h, line 366. I think.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
Eclipse doesn't do SVN as standard, and CVS is an entirely different system. Install the subclipse plugin for it as mentioned in the wiki.
by
Andrew Smith
-
RepRap Host
Theres already a pullup resistor on the extruder control board, you only needed to add one when you were trying to read from it on your arduino mega board.
Go back to the stock extruder firmware, configure it to use a thermistor, wire the thermistor to the extruder board thermistor header, and see if that works. Don't worry about type of thermistor for now, though post any part numbers you have
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
ABS is supposedly easy to print but prone to warping, to the point where you can't print large parts without a heated bed. PLA warps much less and large parts won't warp much even without a heated bed.
Reprapcentral.com sell both PLA and ABS though theres no price on their website.
reprapkit sells ABS at £16.98/Kg, less if you order 5Kg reels.
by
Andrew Smith
-
United Kingdom RepRap User Group
If I am following your build properly, then you are using a stepper motor to drive your extruder, and so you don't need to worry about a rotary encoder. Its used to track the motion of a motor so that you know how far it has moved, with a stepper you just need to keep track of the steps you send it. It could be useful if you wanted to check whether the extruder stepper was missing steps.
If you
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
jkelso Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> magnets...how do they work?
As a reprap part? They are sometimes used to hold a steel build platform in place, to avoid the need for clips or other fasteners.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
So I thought Id drill out the parts for the X-axis idler before going to work, so I can get some assembly done tonight without bugging the neighbors too much. And I though that one of the HSS drill bits might be faster than the wood bit I was using before. Turns out, yes, its faster, but it destroys parts.
I now have a broken x-180-z-bearing-plate.
Anyone know what glue is most suitable for t
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers
HPFE is a typo for PTFE, which is teflon. Googling the phrase 'bowden extruder' should turn up some more information.
by
Andrew Smith
-
Reprappers