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Printing issues ...
Hammer head nut. You can insert it into the channel and rotate it to lock in place.
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
As it says, you have an #endif statement without a corresponding #ifdef statement in configuration.h. Its probably easiest to get a fresh copy of the file and start again.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
You may be overheating the stepper drivers, turn down the pots or point a fan at them.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
You, very carefully, configure the firmware so that it knows the correction coordinate for Z_MAX, so that Z0 is right above the bed.
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Your link works for you because you have permission to edit your videos, anyone else just gets to their My Videos page. I posted a fixed link, so I can see the video.
Does the sound still happen while moving at higher speed?
You can't move on X or Y while the printer is homed, because at least one carriage has to move upwards to bring the effector towards a tower without dropping on Z.
Home po
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Your link is broken.
I think we can rule out motor or driver problems, all carriages drop quickly when retracting from the endstop.
Its possible that pronterface is simply commanding a very slow move on Z axis, since in cartesian printers Z tends to be very slow compared to X and Y. The default Z feedrate is 200 mm/min, you can change it in settings->options-:>printer settings.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
You changed the y axis to home high, but it still travels the same direction when printing. You need to have the axis home low with the endstop in its new position.
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Did you change the axis' direction of travel, or just you just change which end it homes to?
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Try here:
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Apparently, I was hallucinating this morning.
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
You have two sets of _AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT defined, with the set for the makergear prusa taking preference. If thats not intentional, you're trying to step ten times to quickly for your machine.
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Some MK2s are also designed for dual power, there should be a silkscreen telling you what connections to make. Normally, for a 12V connection, you put 12V on pad 1 and GND on pads 2 and 3.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Those motors have two coils, each with a center tap, which allows it to be wired for either unipolar or bipolar drivers. To use with a reprap, ignore the brown wires and connect the blue ones to the driver. Pines 1 and 3 from the motor go to pins 1 and 2 of the diver, and pins 4 and 6 go to pins 3 and 4. If it doesn't move, swap the center wires. If it moves in the wrong direction, reverse the co
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Your supplier may provide a pre-configured firmware in which case you just need download it, tweak configuration.h to suit the LCD controller, and upload it. If not, you'll have to download the firmware from github and configure it from scratch.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
You'll probably have to reconfigure your firmware to support the controller. I've not done this myself but the relevant section of configuration.h looks pretty self explanatory.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
The only thing that can be put on backwards, in a pre-assembled RAMPS, would be the stepper drivers. You can buy a DRV8825 for $13.95 from www.eckertech.com/electronics/
by
Andrew Smith
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Reprappers
Are you providing 12V to the 11A terminals? Pin D8 is powered from there rather than the 5A terminals that power the rest of the machine.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Check the endstop connections on the board, the wires should go to the S and - pins, if they go between + and - then you're shorting gnd to VCC every time an endstop trips. If you can get a response from M119 after homing the machine this is not your problem.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
The second defined HEATER_0 in that block is the line you're looking for. The IDE should display the line numbers in the bottom left.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
I mean, of course, line 600 of pins.h. That section was a lot simpler last time I looked at it.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
It could be a failed mosfet. Move the heater connection to D9 and adjust pins.h accordingly. Line 675 in current Marlin.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Edit pins.h, and find the section where it defines X_MIN_PIN for motherboard 33. This is line 558 in the current version of Marlin. Change that to 2 and plug your endstop into the X max connector.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Repetier is working fine. The chip is reporting an error. It could be an open thermocouple, or the thermocouple could be shorted to ground or VCC. The chip does report which it is, but repetier doesn't examine the error bits, just reports that the master error bit is high by reporting a temperature of 5000C.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Try setting the X and Y offset to 85.
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Vref is the control signal that tells the driver chip how much current to feed the stepper motor. You can adjust it with the trimpot on the driver boards, and you can measure it from the trimpot wiper. 0.4V is a good starting point. If you don't have a multimeter, it can be set by trial and error - turn the trimpot clockwise if the motors don't move, and anti-clockwise if the driver is overheatin
by
Andrew Smith
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General
The stepper connectors will plug onto standard 2.54mm headers. Not sure which connectors will match the two-pin connectors, but they are still 2.54mm pitch . The eurostyle screw connectors on the azteeg are a larger pitch, and this board doesn't provide alternative holes for 2.54mm connectors, so theres no neat way to use those connectors.. You could replace the connectors on the board with plugg
by
Andrew Smith
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General
QuoteMaria Jose
We would love to work in millimeters but we don't know where to change it cause somehow all the dimensions are read in centimeters and the printer is not working because of that, we were suspecting it was the Firmware but we don't know where to change it.
In sprinter, the steps per unit settings are on line 35 of configuration.h. If you really are getting CM instead of MM movemen
by
Andrew Smith
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General
The power rating on a resistor tells you how much power it can dissipate under normal conditions without overheating and failing. More is better.
Its easy to calculate the power rating we actually need - 5V across a 10Ohm resistor gives you 0.5A of current. 0.5A @ 5V gives you 2.5W. So 15W is overkill, 25W is overkill, but it'll work, and the larger resistors dissipate heat more effectively whi
by
Andrew Smith
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General
This is a hot swappable supply that plugs into a power distribution board. That board breaks it out into standard ATX connectors, so if you can get hold of it your problem is solved. Failing that, I can't find a pinout anywhere so theres no safe way to proceed. You could plug it in, and look for pins which are +5V relative to the PSU chassis. One of those pins should be the equivalent of the ATX
by
Andrew Smith
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General
Thats a customized Marlin firmware. Its set for RAMPS 1.4 electronics, check that this matches whats on your printer. The hot bed should be on the output marked D8. This output is powered from the 11A terminals while everything else runs from the 5A terminals, make sure both sets are supplied with 12V.
by
Andrew Smith
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General