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Printing issues ...
Repetier Firmware supports multiple extruders. Have a look at Panucatt Devices line of controllers. They are in communication with the Kraken guys about getting these things working out in the wider 3D hobby printing world.
They only have a couple of the new boards in stock right now.
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jcabrer
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General
Try some stepper driver module that support 1/32 micro-stepping, like what Panucatt.com sells. Turn the current down as low as you can get away with, without loosing steps. It helps if you axes are really smooth, and not getting hung up on fender washers, and the like. LM linear bearing are notorious for rattle. I grease them up generously with petroleum jelly. I'm pretty sure this defeats t
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jcabrer
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General
Your nozzle diameter is partly to blame. 0.5mm works much better at printing single walled objects, simply because there is more plastic there. However...
Not all filament is created equal. Here is a quick test you can perform to determine if your filament (ABS) is more or less prone to severe delamination, and warping.
Cut a piece of filament 50mm long, hold it between your thumb and pointe
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jcabrer
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General
That's right. I already mentioned this in a PM, but it's worth mentioning here in the thread, for those who may find this in the future.
Some older firmware never supported writing settings to EEPROM, and in newer firmware, like repetier, you can disable saving to EEPROM if you need to save some memory on the ATMEGA.
I don't think the electronics has been mentioned yet, but from the pictures,
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
I believe that Pronterface does not include a straightforward method for viewing and changing firmware settings. It (Pronterface) relies on G-codes that can accomplish this.
Your best bet is to download a copy of Repetier Host, and use it to view your firmware settings. This will only work if your firmware supports storing values to EEPROM. Marlin and Repetire firmware support this, and proba
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
The root of your troubles is most likely at the hot end. What you have is a V3 Makergear or more likely a clone of that. It's not what Makergear currently recommends. Since you are printing in PLA, and using 1.75mm filament, cooling the nozzle insulator and the print is NOT optional. You will need to address this issue first, even before calibration.
Everything else will need to wait for thi
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
I don't know which firmware you're running or which host software so maybe if you could tell us a little bit about that that would help also.
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
The firmware settings can be viewed through your host software, if using Repetier. I'm not sure about pronterface, or others.
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
Well, you cannot follow everyone's advice at the same time. Not that anyone is giving bad advice, but in many cases, there will be conflicting advice from two or more parties that is not compatible.
Don't change anything for now. Just post the following
1. What type of hot end is on that extuder? If possible, get some pictures too.
2. Show us your current slicer settings. The same as the s
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
I designed a flex coupling limiter last night, and put it up on Thingiverse (Boooooo!)
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
Disclaimer: This probably has nothing to do with the print problems you are showing us.
Nobody has mentioned the flex couplings. I have a Prusa Mendel with the same type of coupling. It's not a huge deal, but consider that the entire X-axis is essentially being suspended from a couple of springs. I've been putting off designing a solution for this, but now that I see it again, fresh, there i
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
FEEDRATE = Travel Speed
FLOWRATE = Extrusion Speed
It's neither here nor there, as these two values should normally be the same if using volumetric extrusion, which almost every firmware out there is doing now.
What is most important in determining the upper limit of your printing speed would be:
1. The maximum sustained speed that the extruder can run at, without overtaking the hotend heating
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jcabrer
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General
There are various culprits that can cause this kind of problem.
Before you begin troubleshooting, let's stop changing things that are probably not really affecting this. Set your temperature on the hot end and print bed (ABS 230°C/110°C) (PLA 170°C/70°C). If you feel you have different setting that work better on that printer, use them. The important thing is to not change things during troub
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jcabrer
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General Mendel Topics
The simple answer is that PLA objects are not dishwasher safe because they would melt, and ABS is not food grade. Both types of plastic shed particles, but the PLA is water soluable, so it would eventually pass out of the body. ABS would probably get stuck in the liver.
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jcabrer
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General
It's all about temperature people. Adding anything to the glass, or sanding it, is just a crutch. The underlying problem not being addressed is one of the following.
1. ABS filament chemistry is not ideal. Some ABS will seem almost rubbery when warm, and will stick hard to bare glass at 110°C. Other ABS will seem very slick, and even brittle, and won't stick at any temperature. When this i
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jcabrer
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Reprappers
You need to reverse the connector on your Z-Axis steppers A+/A-/B-/B+ becomes B+/B-/A-/A+
This will make the motor spin in the correct direction.
If you don't want to bother with the motor connector and wiring, then you can change the direction in firmware source, and then upload it to your controller.
Move the endstop back to the bottom.
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jcabrer
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Reprappers
All new development is going to be experimental by nature. Some of the printers you mention have not been carried forward since they were announced.
I think you should give the Prusa i2 another go, but get a decent hot end.
Stick with bushings and flex couplings for the Z axis. LM8UU for X and Y.
Go with this extruder It has all the things I like about Greg's, but more compact, and easier
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jcabrer
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General
Since the problem manifested suddenly, I think the source of the problem is mechanical, and not your settings. Just because belt tension is tight, it does not mean it's good. Check the individual axes for the presence of backlash.
Move the axis under test 50mm in one direction, and then start incremental 0.1mm moves in the opposite direction. See how many clicks it takes to move. Do this in
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jcabrer
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Printing
E-steps are very forgiving. You can probably change it by +/- 75, and not see much difference.
You might want to check for backlash in your belts/pulleys. It's not unheard of on these forums to have mismatched pulleys and belts. T5 are usually the culprit. Depending on the quality of your pulleys, assuming they are printed, you may find more bang for the buck in getting some machined ones in
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jcabrer
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Printing
When the pattern is repeating like that in the picture, the lead screws are suspect because they introduce this type of periodicity as they slowly turn. Usually it happens because the coupling, M5 to M8, is slightly off-center on the M8 side. The cheaper flex couplings found on eBay, and printed ones are susceptible to this. If you have metric lead screws, say M8, you can add one of the many 6
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jcabrer
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Printing
Don't take the temperature to 250°C. Even if it's a Prusa All Metal. You should stick with a single temperature for now, and figure out what the real problem is.
1. It could be the filament chemistry itself. Sometimes you get a bad batch. I average about one bad spool a year. Right now, it's a spool of black ABS that I bought on eBay. The other colors were all fine, but the black just wou
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jcabrer
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Printing
What is your lead screw pitch, and layer height?
Check the Reprap Calculator and see if you can tune in the layer height to match more closely the pitch of the Z-screws. Also might want to leave the Z-axis enabled all the time.
It could also be Z-wobble, from the coupling of the lead scres to the motors, but it;s hard to say without seeing it.
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jcabrer
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Printing
I second Sublime's comments and recommendations. There is no question that what you have in the picture is not a J-head. Chuck it in the bin, and get a real one from Brian, or one of the manufacturers that he endorses. I think there is a list on his wiki page.
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jcabrer
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Printing
I looked back at some of your previous posts, but I did not see mention of the type of printer you built.
In any case, I see you are printing with PLA. PLA is nice because there is lees problems with warping on large prints, but it does require a bit of a balancing act when trying to figure out how much cooling is needed. Depending on the hot end you are using, PLA may not be a good choice. I
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jcabrer
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Printing
Yeah. That model should look like a stack of small cubes. Start by posting your firmware settings here, along with the type of lead screws, and belts/pulleys your machine is using.
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jcabrer
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Printing
Heat will help drive off moisture, but it won't be very efficient at doing so if the ambient humidity is very high. You have to be careful when heating up PLA. Too hot, and you will end up with the filament binding to itself all over.
Consider using a plastic container with a tight sealing lids, large enough to hold your spool, and some desiccant. Add a small hole to bring the filament out.
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jcabrer
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Printing
Heat conduction rates ultimately limit the extrusion speed, but there are lots of variable to consider. I'll try an dump what I know to be factors. Dig in.
1. Peek, used as an insulator in the cold (extruder) to hot (melt pot) interface melts ~240°C. This sets an upper limit of around 230°C for the melt pot.
2. It has been found by many that a short melt pot is better at avoiding jams, an
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jcabrer
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Plastic Extruder Working Group
Easiest solution, since you don't know how to disassemble the extruder, is to buy a new one. I know it's not the best idea, but it will certainly work.
Once you have the second extruder, you can take a little more risk with the old extruder, and learn how to fix these kind of problems in the future.
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jcabrer
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General
Acceleration exists in every motion system, whether there is support in the electronics, or not. Having it in the electronics gives you control over what would otherwise be a very short/steep ramp to the desired speed.
Without controlling this ramp, you introduce additional vibration, and you limit your top speed, because in most cases where there is no acceleration ramp, a stepper motor cannot
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jcabrer
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General
"Making Money" can take many forms.
I printed printer kist parts for a couple of dozen people. It wasn't a lot of money, but enough to keep me well supplied with filament.
Cost savings is another way to put it.
I can think of at least six occasions in the past nine months, where a printed fixture, or part helped provide the result that got us new work at my company.
Just this past Friday, I
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jcabrer
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General