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Try lower speed or acceleration and see if the slip happens at the same spot. Also check for grooves if you are using linear bearings. Also check the jerk settings.
And it would help if you said "between window and door" or something to let us visualize where your problem is.
by
marnargulus
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Slic3r
M107 is Fan Off
M104 S### is Set Extruder Temp to ### degrees
I wouldn't worry about them unless you are trying to do the reverse (turn the fan on or maintain the current temp setting)
by
marnargulus
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Slic3r
How you get your secondary PID tunings doesn't matter (with filament, fan, heated chamber, vents, etc), this just switches between the two settings.
by
marnargulus
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Slic3r
OK, so here is a script that will change your PID on the fly between settings with the fan on and the fan off. I can make it so it uses more tunings if people want that (say a tuning for 0%Fan, 25% Fan, 50% Fan, 75%Fan, 100%Fan). Right now I have it set for two tunings, On/Off.
The script is called with the following, and outputs to "MultiplePID.gcode"
perl "/pathtoscript/MultiplePID.pl" "/pa
by
marnargulus
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Slic3r
Is the driver turned up enough? Do you have a resistor on the power supply to keep the load constant? Also, the belt on that axis might have come a little loose, giving a slight lag on the return.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
There has been a history of extruders not moving when not in print mode, this might be one of those instances. Try actually printing something.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
Can you describe your results before and after removing the resistor?
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
This is the MS1 pull-down resistor. (MS2 and MS3 have internal pull-down)
So R1 is the LED Current limit, while 2-5 are the MS1 Pull-down for the pololu's.
From:
Note: This board is a drop-in replacement for the original Pololu A4983 stepper motor driver carrier. The newer A4988 offers overcurrent protection and has an internal 100k pull-down on the MS1 microstep selection pin, but it is ot
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
No, just follow the guide and use a few of the yellow leads for 12V and a few black for ground. You will need a sandbar style resistor to hold a load to make sure the power save feature doesn't turn it off when low loads are present. An an on/off switch is also nice, but you can just plug or unplug it and join the green and black with a twist cap or solder.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
Get the ol' multimeter out and check all the things that can be checked:
Steppers (for shorts)
power supply: What voltage and amperage are you getting on your leads?
stepper drivers: what voltage and amperage are you getting when you move the motors? Does this change when you change your potentionmeter (little screw on board)?
Do your pulleys bind on the steppers? Try without any pulley/load f
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
You want to make sure that it has enough power:
Watts = Amperage X Voltage
Watts = 13 Amps X 12 Volts
156 Watts
Anything not in a "minitower" size should give more than that. I think my newest PSU does 500W.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
The cheapest option is to get a used computer power supply. You need ~ 2 amps per stepper, so 8 amps (z shares stepper driver), plus your hot end and bed if you use one. I would say ~10 amps bed and maybe ~5 amps for the hot end.
Here is a conversion guide:
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
I can't tell if AnnaWatson is real or a bot. I'm guessing bot.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
I've seen some people with zip ties getting good results, it is a little more give than screws directly to the motor. You really need smooth coupling from rod to motor in order for them to be bolted in. Try shrink wrapping the motor until it is closer in to diameter of the rod, as even pressure on the coupling device will result in a better/more accurate hold.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
I would recommend trying all software suites before worrying too much. Pronterface would be a good place to start.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
Does your machine connect in the host software?
On the pololus there is a tiny screw on the right side of the board (with USB facing you). Turn the screw to the left for all driver boards, and work them up a 1/4 step at a time until they work.
by
marnargulus
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Sanguino(lolu)
Pinout for the STK672 line should all be cross compatible, with the ratings being the only difference.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Actually, it looks like you connect M1-M3 to VCC in this schematic. On Pololu A4988 it goes to ground.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Check this out:
M1, M2, and M3, to ground gives you full microstepping.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
This looks to be an acceptable driver, it operates at roughly the same specs as the Pololu we are most familiar with. It is only 1.5 amps for 070 and 1.8 for the 330 as opposed to 2.0 amps for Pololu A4988. You have more than 3 correct? You will need a minimum of 4 drivers. This will mean you will be splitting the driver for the Z axis if you are doing a Prusa.
3 STK672-070 for X axis, Y a
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Congratulations on winning a laser printer in a dice game!
I think you got three Sanyo stepper drivers, but I have no idea what you are asking. Could you clarify? (Sometimes it helps to use your original language and google translate it.)
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
If you use the USB housing for ground, but someone uses SD cards, if they remove the USB how will it be grounded? Best practices would be a common ground.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Since he looks to be using mostly SMD, I don't know if a breakout board for FTDI is really necessary. Sanguinololu might be a better board for a breakout FTDI, since it is the only SMD device in the design. I do prefer breakout smd boards, but if you're already doing 30 SMD connections, one chip shouldn't be a problem.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Each of the driver boards needs ~ 2 amps.
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
Also, what are you you looking at for pricing?
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
A few things:
1. I like the idea/initiative
2. This has way too many surface mounts (more than 0) for a public board.
3. Not sure a second set of end stops is necessary. And I would try to keep all connections on the edge of the board. Enclosures will depend on it. Maybe move the expansion port to where the endstops are?
4. That surface mount on the back side of the board will be a bitch
by
marnargulus
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Controllers
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